zatsun

Responded to a PM, but I'll let you guys know if that falls through. Thanks again guys!

Took my head to the machine shop and IDK if they lost one or if there was actually only one holding the valve in, but they are missing one. If anyone has one (or pair) of these laying around, really need it! Not sure if there are differences between keepers in this valve and valves of other l28 heads, but my head is an N47 with the cast-in exhaust liners.

Backing up the truck here...really? Can anyone else confirm this? If so, I would reckon the Eclipse 210cc injectors will work for my stock L28..

Upgrading to Pallnet o-ring style fuel rail, not barbed, but I'm still non-turbo. Stock flow rates for L28 injectors are 190-200cc and i believe are the low-impedance type. My friend had a hell of a time figuring out his MS install, having to add resistors to the injector leads.. that is how I know they are low impedance. I need a comparable type/flow injector that will fit this style of fuel rail and manifold. Any ideas? Once I go turbo I will reuse this rail with (probably) the supra style injectors. But that isn't for a year or two.

Don't have a valve spring compressor, so couldn't inspect the guide. Head at machine shop now. The owner used to have a 280, so I'm confident when I get it back it'll be good as new. Getting pressure checked too since I was losing coolant. $150 clean, valve job, machine face,etcf $35 pressure check ~$10/valve $50 remove 2 broken manifold studs. Didn't even know those bolts were missing, should fix exhaust tick!

Thanks everyone, looks like I found one.

I did read that once about the engine sitting. I haven't taken a look at the guides, what causes this? Corrosion that can be cleaned up or do they need to be replaced?

I've only had the car for a few months, on the road around the neighborhood maybe 20 miles. The timing chain, water pump, distributor, clutch, and lots of other small stuff was redone about a year before I bought it and never ran right so it sat. Maybe the timing chain busted before and thats what caused it. Like I said, it has a new chain now and I know it will be adjusted right when it goes back together, so whatever is wrong with the head, in addition to valve, will be fixed at machine shop. Never heard of the last thing you mentioned BRAAP about the rocker falling over, but everything looked OK under the valve cover. BTW the clearance for the rocker-cam was .019 if I remember correctly. This is probably because now the valve isn't seating all the way, not because the adjusting screw is off. The other valves are all in spec.

Just to explain how far it was bent..

No no. The valve clearance between rocker and can isn't what I was referring to. I was measuring the distance between open valve and head face on the bowl side. the side of the valve, where it is supposed to seal on the seat, is practically touching the top of the bowl when valve is open.

Nevermind, I've got the N47 Head/N42 Block. I'll assume the pistons are stock but they have a dish to them. Will the P79 head my friend has work? I'm a bit confused on what I've read about interchangeability. Will the valves clear or will it mess up compression ratios? **edit** Arg. Found the L28 calculator. I see now it would drop my CR into the 7s and I'm not really up for changing pistons or milling the head down + shimming cam to bring it back proper. Will take my current head to NAPA on Monday to see what they have to say.. Will make sure they check out that valve guide too.

Hey my buddy has a p79 head, same as mine i believe, with fresh rebuild, 3 angle valve job, and some "new parts" not sure what exactly but I think its a steal at $100 that he'll give it to me for. I'll eventually go Turbo swap including block and head, but I want to do suspension, wheels, and brakes first. So this motor doesn't need to be anything special nor spend more than necessary to make it reliable for a year or two. After head, gasket set, fluids, new used fpr and etc I may be able to get it back together for under $250

Oh, and the headgasket was just fine. Not sure how I lost as much coolant as I did. Like I said before the radiator cap seal was bad and I didn't have a catch tank, but sure seems like a lot to boil over/slosh out.

Pulled the head today. The #6 exhaust valve hit the piston. Put a little ding in it on the rearmost part of the piston. The valve bent back to the back of the engine so far that I can barely get the .010 feeler gauge between it and the head when the valve is open. On the front exhaust valve (#1) there is way more clearance. Not sure how much exactly but biggest size on feeler gauge fits. So now what? I don't think I'd tear the bottom end apart to fix that piston. Can probably get a pic at some point, but its an arc about a 6 mm long and less than 1 mm deep. As for the head, I'm open to suggestions. How much do you think it'll cost to get the head fixed, as I'm guessing the bent valve tore up the seat. And the $ for a new valve. Or should I just find a new head?

If it's a factory one, it needs to fit a 77 rail. Thanks guys.

Found mine. I've got a 77 but it looks identical. email me damianofhouston@gmail.com

Found a bolt IN the oil pump. It's the same size as the distributor hold down bolts but all chewed up now. Pump still spins freely but has slight drag through about 60 deg of rotation. "Did you have oil pressure when the car ran?" Dunno. It had a bad sender unit when I got the car. I know this because I grounded the wire to block and gauge went to infinity. Got a new sender (the cheapest one from auto parts, a gold one). When I started the car it would shoot up to the top then immediately go back to zero. I figured this was something with this being the cheap sender and was going to replace it with the OEM type. Now I think maybe the pump was spinning freely on engine start until that bolt jammed it up. But if this was the case, wouldn't the distributor stop turning too or at least grind up the camshaft gear? I've got an oil pressure tester now. When it all goes back together, I'll be able to tell if the oil pump still works..

Just got back from Harbor Freight...feeler gauge was 2.99! Got oil pressure and compression testers as well, and the 10mm allen key socket for the head bolts. Don't go too hard on me guys I'm just getting back into the game here. Was still using the scissor jack that came with the car until Black Friday. Sears pretty much has all my money now.

Zmanco, Yes I have the valve cover off. Everything in the valvetrain looks to be in order, but I don't have any feeler gauges to check clearances. As far as the compression test, I triple checked by going back to other cylinders to make sure tester still worked and made sure there wasn't anything on the mating surface of #6. Also made a little duct tape ball and turned the engine over. On #6 it didn't go anywhere, and on another cylinder it shot it across the garage. May be a few days before I get back out there, but will update once I get the head off.

Thanks guys. Haven't noticed the punch marks, but that's probably because the PO took a few cans of spray paint to the engine. Like I said the front cover will be off, so I'll stick to the #1 TDC script when timing chain, oil pump and dizzy go back together.

77 non-turbo On the oil pump and shaft, does that just slide in and out once the swaybar is dropped and 4 bolts removed? Or does it need to be timed with the engine? I'm taking apart the front cover to remove the head. I saw a thread saying you can do it without removing cover but this is my first time diving into this engine, trying to stay with the FSM but it just says "remove oil pump and shaft".

77 non turbo, symptoms include: Smoke from tailpipe getting progressively worse over last few drives. White/blue tint, hangs in the air sort of like I read that coolant does when it's burned. Was losing water. After 15 min drive lost a couple gallons. Exhaust smelled really bad - think its running rich. Unplugged water temp sensor to see if it would make a difference but it was running too poorly to tell. When I turned on the car the last time it wouldn't run unless I kept foot on pedal. Once I got it around the block it cleared up a little bit, almost as if there was something that collected in the cylinders burned off. Exhaust tick, like a bad gasket seal. No loss of oil from what I can tell, but have driven less than 15 miles since these problems started. So, did a few tests.. Compression check cylinders #1-5: 150psi, #6 ZERO. Put some oil in spark plug hole to seal rings, still ZERO. Radiator pressure check. Pumped up to 11psi and it didn't change over 10 minutes. Noticed that the rubber on radiator cap was severely deteriorated on 2 seals. Spark plugs are bad. 4 of them are powdery black, 2 are shiny black with oil. Drained oil. No sign of water in coolant. Drained radiator. Brown fluid, not sure if it was because it was old or because exhaust gases leaked into it. Still smelled like antifreeze to me.. At this point I've taken off valve cover, fuel rail, intake & exhaust manifolds. My vacuum line goes in a T from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator and distributor. When I pulled the vac from distributor, fuel came out. I'll assume my FPR is toast. So this is my first question.. #1 I'll be upgrading to a turbo motor at some point in the next few years, can I get a Pallnet fuel rail and adj. FPR that will be compatable with both setups? I want to stick with stock injectors now and upgrade to the Supra or some other budget higher flowing injector and use the same Pallnet rail. OK so I can guess that if there was fuel going to distributor it was going into the intake as well, helping it run rich. Also, when I pulled the manifolds, the #6 exhaust was almost dripping with oil. #2 So at this point the head is about 30 minutes from being pulled, but its dark and cold now. I'm wondering if a bad headgasket can cause ZERO compression and oil in cylinder? Or valve seals, valve, rings? #3 The headgasket would explain the coolant loss, but there aren't oil passages running through it are there? #4 Should I pull the head and take it to NAPA and have them pressure check it? If the valves aren't adjusted right, would they know that or would it just come back as FAIL? Hopefully I can get the head off tomorrow and there will be an AHA! moment. I'm just hoping I don't have to tear the bottom end apart.

Factory service manual available at the following link: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

I'll chime in since you mentioned the Monster. I've got a 2000 (750cc). Like it way more than the newer model actually. Its definitely a bike I'll be taking to my grave (or vise versa..). The low end torque, upright riding, and overall naked look and feel had me sold the first time I saw it. This is my third bike, the first was a suzuki katana (really heavy sport "touring" bike) and a Honda Shadow cruiser. The Monster works so well in metropolitan areas and out in the countryside. But I rarely go over 70 mph so if you want crazy speed look elsewhere. I have to shift 3x to get to 70 whereas my friend on his R1 can wrap his motor out to 14k rpm in first gear to get to the same speed. Having that said. I wouldn't* look at the Monster if you're that tall. I'm only 5' 10" and it fits me like a glove. Your knees would be awfully bent if you were over 6ft tall. Sorry!