Jump to content
HybridZ

dr_hunt

Members
  • Posts

    2661
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Posts posted by dr_hunt

  1. We already have our own forum for the nissan v8. It's covered under "Other Engines". The chevy, ford, chrysler v8's, toyota, nissan l6's, 4 bangers, buick v6's, chevy v6's, all don't have their own subforum. So are you guys advocating adding a subforum for every other engine choice that doesn't have it's own subforum or are you special? Actually I don't care one way or the other, just trying to understand your perspective and what exactly is to gain from all of this banter.

     

    By popularity I think the chevy and ford v8 is hands down the most popular hybrid, 2jz, nissan l6, rb's are probably second, the 4 bangers and v6's group probably third, the nissan v8 and diesel are few but around. Honestly just because a handfull of you want it, doesn't seem to warrant actually getting it, just because you yell the loudest. I haven't seen any discussion as to the need, benefits, but rather just "want". Besides, if the Nissan v8 deserves a subforum so does the buick v6, chevy v6, and the rest that don't have one as the argument would be the same for all engine choices that have actually been installed in a z. Don't you think?

  2. Not sure if many of you know but lunati was sold in 2007 before holley went into bankruptcy. It was sold to a group of racers with pleanty of knowhow. Harold Brookshire designed the voodoo line and here is a quote from him regarding the voodoo line vs the comp cams XE line.

     

    As far as closing the valve gentler, it's a 'trade secret', although I shut it about 10% faster than stock GM hydraulics---the Xtreme Energy series is about 40% faster, and about 250% higher acceleration rate at contact.

    It's all about math, and I like math.....

    At .200" cam lift, the VooDoo 262 is 2° to 5° bigger than the XE 262, and the VooDoo 268 is 3° to 6° bigger than the XE268.

    It's not really magic at all, just math.....

     

    The voodoo line shuts the valve easier yet is bigger which = more torque everywhere.

     

    It pays to stay on top of the latest so you can take advantage of the HP and TQ increases in new lobe designs.

  3. Thanks for the cool pictures!! BTW I don't install the crank with dry bearings, your run the risk of galling the bearings IMO. Grease on bearings 1-4 has no impact on measuring thrust and just a whisper on 5 not allowing any excess to get on the thrust is the way I do it whether right or wrong. The crank has to move and dry I can't do, but that is my opinion. If you can't move the crank by hand forward and back then you've got other problems. I use screwdriver to pry forward and back just to make sure full travel is seen both ways.

  4. All the books that you can read that are published have alot of information, but there's always something lacking that they don't discuss. Here's one thing that I hardly ever run into but have on at least two other occasions, this being the third.

     

    When installing the crank, you typically install the center cap, snug it hand tight, rotate the crank and then work your way out from the center each way alternating, while rotating the crank to make sure it spins freely. You do this till you get all 5 caps on and if the crank gets tight you have a problem with the last cap you put on so you check it.

     

    Well, Mic'ing the crank and using snap guages in the bearings I determined that I had .0015 clearance on the mains, tight, but it's a street motor and it's within specs. Bearings are C&A mains .010 undersized. When installing the caps everything was great until I got to the rear main, which is the thrust. But since I had mic'd all the clearances I was wondering WTF? So, I installed my dial indicator to measure the thrust clearance and low and behold I had zero!!! It turns, but it's still zero with white grease in place so, it's probably at about .0005 or less. The books don't cover this problem. Option 1 is to have the crank thrust touched up, but you'll have to take the mains to .020 and buy new bearings. In rare instances is a crank grinder going to be able to touch it without having to grind the crank or at least polish it.

     

    Let's analayze the situation. The crank is a used piece, stock 400sbc that was running so we know it was ok, same with the block. I had it align honed, caps squared, decked to 9.000 inches, bored and honed with plates and arp studs in the mains. So we know the block is spot on. So, it has to be bearings are alittle thick in the thrust area. So, what we do is get a piece of thick glass. I happened to have some pyrex flat glass out of my fireplace, you put fine sandpaper on the glass and sand the thrust down to get your clearance. I used a good dial caliper to measure the thickness of the thrust as I went keeping it pretty even, with .0005. I took .003 off of the back and just leveled up the front side to where there were no high or low spots. This gave me a measured .003 thrust when I re-installed the crank. Perfect, and now it turns well.

     

    So just a thought when your building an engine and you run into this problem. Keep in mind that all bearings are not exactly the same all the time. Keep it in the back of your mind.

  5. dr_hunt: I read the link to your post regarding Sanderson Headers. Apparently those that used them mod'd their steering shaft due to custom fabbed engine mounts. Have a JTR mounts for my 240Z and would like NOT to have to mod the steering shaft. Would really like 1 3/4" primary tube headers as the opening area is slightly greater than the ports on my AFR 195 heads with angle plugs.

     

    Do you know which Sanderson Headers will fit without 240Z steering shaft mod, JTR engine mounts and AFR 195 angle port heads? The AFR 195 heads have square exhaust ports measuring 1.4 x 1.5". It is not clear from the posting what the appropriate conclusion should be. Please advise. Thanks.

     

    Not sure, they fit in my z ok.

  6. Getting mine all back tomorrow, along with the 400 block. Should have running in a week or so. LOL Honestly, others sell the same head. I can't imagine some clown putting 2.055 valves on seats cut for 2.02 valves and resurfacing the valve so it'll seat as it would be easier and better to recut the seat :rolleyes: Others sell the same head for about $649. If you do a bowl clean up I'm sure they will work fine. I changed springs as these had alittle more spring pressure open than the cam manufacturer recommended.

  7. Nope, can't check valve to guide clearance without disassembling heads, but it's worth it and to have valve size, seat checked. Might as well do bowl clean up while your there also.

     

    Was the jeep motor, ahh well. Update: Budlong motorsports called this afternoon and the heads had seats cut for 2.02 valves and 2.055 valves in them, not the 2.08 valves they claimed to have. OK, so it needed 2 intake valves and 4 exhaust valves overall due to the pieces of metal that got sucked everywhere in the other cylinders and stuck between the valves and seats on several other cylinders, which bent the valves, other than the two valves in #1 which were well shall we say "toast". Ah, the joys of single plane manifolds and it is amazing how much gets sucked into other cylinders when things go south. :lmao:

     

    So, machining for the 2.055 valves and it'll be good to go, but it throws the spring height all in a mess as the valves sit lower on the seats and messes up my geometry. I'll probably take my pushrods back and change for -.100 length instead of stock.

     

    Anyway, it'll be 406 cubes this time around and at least the heads are ok. If you manage to get some just have them checked out. We will see how they perform in a week or so. Should be a nasty jeep. Got a hard top the other day and a new heater core for heat during the winter. LOL Then it's on to the z.

  8. Well, I hope yours work better than mine did. Started the motor, breaking in the cam with the idle at 3500. Was setting the timing and it was up to operating temp had been running about 15 to 20 min when it suddenly died. #1 intake valve was tight in the guide and the piston broke the head of the valve off and it beat around in there and got stuffed into the head intake port. :lmao: So, checked the oil and was way over full, cracked the #1 cylinder. Took it apart and had to drive the intake stem out with a punch. Everything else was pretty good. Guys that sold me the heads said "Your not alone" offered new gasket set!! Oui, how generous! Were supposed to send call tag and have it shipped back so they could repair it. Never got tag or gaskets they said they shipped. So, I ordered another set of heads, payed via paypal. Never got second set of heads. Filed claim on both paypal transactions and got my money back on both sets of heads. block is toast, sad :( as it was decked, align honed and a one piece seal block. Oh well, dusted off a 4 bolt 400 block and took it to machine shop. Had it decked, thought it would go .030 and going 9:1 hypers used I had laying around, 5.7 eagle sir rods and stock crank .010/.010. Took my wonderfull heads and had new 2.08 and 1.6 manley race valves put in and the chamber cleaned up alittle and new seats in #1 chamber both intake and exhaust. Had guide replaced and all honed and ready to go now.

     

    I did some extensive exhaust port work and since I had the heads apart really got to see the ports and stuff. Pretty nice on the intake side, which accounts for the good flow numbers. A little rough under the seat in the bowl area but just a little blending and shaping of the short side radius on the intakes and they looked really really nice. Kind of an elevated port head, I know the exhausts are quite a bit higher than stock. The exhausts had a huge boss area around the guide that needed profiling and they too were rough in the bowl area with a large step when they had been machined for the seat. About 4 hours to clean them up real nice and I bet the exhaust flow numbers top 200 easily. Really large exhaust ports and the intakes are as well.

     

    So, all in all I took it in the shorts for about $1K. I could of gotten another 1 piece seal block, decked it, align honed it and bored it, bought 1 new piston, rings, and gaskets and fixed the head, but would have had a lot in that too.

     

    Shop just called and my 400 block didn't clear so I'll have to send another block tomorrow. :lmao: By not clearing I mean at .030. IME 400 blocks don't get good ring seal at .040 or even .060 unless you hardblok them. I have hardblok but block is in alb and I am here. besides it takes 30 days to hard block a motor anyway to ensure it cures properly and I don't have that much time.

     

    So, hi ho hi ho it's off to alb tomorrow with another 4 bolt 400 block that i have laying around collecting dust. We will try that one and if not go from there, maybe another 350 block which I have lots of laying around.

  9. I am driving a 1997 BMW M3/4/5 which I also track. My 5 year old loves daddy's fast car. It is as big as the 5 series in back. I will warn you that they are expensive to maintain and they need a lot of maintaining at this age. If you find a good example you can still expect to spend several thousand every year you own it.

    M3drift.jpg

     

    Well, probably alot less if you don't horse whip it around the track every other weekend!!! :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

     

    I just bought the boy a 7" skyjacker lift kit, 35" tires and 12" wide 16" wheels for his dodge diesel P/U. I'd get one of those, teach the kids to jump at an early age, plus you can use it to haul the "track car". :eek::lmao:

  10. That sucks! But FYI the "bombs" were assembled on Tinian island. Bob Christy and Ross Lomanitz, both of whom worked on the Manhattan project, were physics professors of mine at NM Tech. They ended up there after being blackballed by the physics community after the development of the most destructive device known to man in the minds of some people. Great physics instructors though!!

  11. More on the M and R engine:

    112 lobe, 236 intake, 242 exhaust

    lift 520 intake 540 exhaust

     

    Yeah I'll sub the AFR eliminators for $400, it's $700 for the AFR competition, probably not needed for this though.

     

    They use an 830 carb for their turnkey. They said I could probably use my 750 if I had it worked by a carb shop. Sounds questionable. Comments on that?

     

     

     

    I have a C&S Aerosol Billet Blow Through 850, ready to run for $1400.

  12. Great info.. Thank you VERY much....:burnout: I did make a mistake though, the mil is a 1988 350, from a GTA pontiac.

     

    I have 1 gen II 350 with; TFS Twisted Wedge alluminum heads, keith black flat top hypereutectic pistons, crane Powermax #114142 (216,228@.050-112 LSA), Summit aluminum roller rockers.. which I hope to transfer over. I am not however, sure, if I should try to bring the cam and pistons over or if I should just go to a new set.. Yes this does mean that I am on the fence as to if I waant to go 383 and all the $$ or just bring over some good high quality...or so I think, parts and do a rebuild of the newer 88 gen III mil. What really is driving me batty is that I can't find a machine shop to do the work, and most importantly I have an idea of the refresh cost on the block, heads, cam (??) and pistons (??). The old mil was rated at 350 hp, so I need to fingure out what I need to do without spending lots of $$ bring it to the 400 hp goal.. p.s. I am not a big NOS fan..

     

    They didn't have the gen III in '88, they did have the one piece seal version of the gen 1 though.

  13. Actually your dealings don't have to be discussed here or Justin at all for that matter. Just read the forums over at zforce productions and er get some popcorn as the drama just continues to roll on and on and on and on. The fact that he is no longer a member here and his reputation speak volumes. And now I can say "I TOLD YOU SO!", so get over it and quit posting about people that we really don't have time to waste on.

     

    Hope that isn't too harsh, so don't take it personal. :)

  14. 1. Block can handle 500hp with no special mods

    2. Good choice as long as the cam matches

    3. Depends on how you go. Eagle 5.7 sir rods either pressed or bushed are probably better then redoing stock rods. Pistons you can go either hyper's or forged. Probably ought to get new valve springs, probably looking at about $1000 in engine parts. 383 crank is $175, hypers $250, rods $200, springs $75, t-chain, steel sleeve oil pump shaft $20, gaskets $90, there is more.

    4. Depends on what you do. Here you can get balanced, decked, align honed, bored, honed, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed and your heads done for $1000.

     

    By the time you buy hoses, starter, water pump, wires, oil, oil filters, fuel filter, plugs, tstat, etc, etc. Your probably looking at about another $600.

     

    My guess is that you'll have about $2600 in the whole thing

  15. As far as kits go, no not really. I like the non stick qft gaskets, makes it really nice later on if you have to work on it. 4 corner idle mixture is nice and using the secondaries to adjust idle rpm is great also. Holley makes a great carb, DaVinci, Braswell and C&S make holleys even better!

  16. You need to completely disassemble, and I mean completely, soak in carb cleaner for as long as it takes, rinse with water, blow every passage out with compressed air making sure they are clean and open, re-assemble correctly, set the floats, idle air and correctly set front and back (if applicable) throttle blade angles (idle).

  17. I believe he got the heads I got also. For street use the wider rings are going to last longer IMO but let us know how the oil control is on those. Aren't the oil rings low tension on the metric set since they are predominantly race only? Interestingly though the I beam design is superior IMO to the H beam design but what is the HP rating of the light weight rods?

×
×
  • Create New...