codeman583

coil and distributor seem to be funtioning fine. using an electric pump and a dial FPR set at 3.5 psi also no on the chokes. my plugs also look like a clean brownish tan..... mocha to white mocha in color. is there a way to test the AFR other then a wideband? man I am green when it comes to all this.

update: went to the 45F9 from what was a 55F8 Idle jet. I am over in Central Oregon now so my elevation of around 3000 ft. with my other settings should be good I am assuming. idle improved with better return springs, and other changes. now it purrs nice and low... but I have a couple other things such as bad gas, which is being flushed tomorrow, and I tried to sync them up and I am reading 5 across all the cylinders except the last one against the firewall which is reading a 2 could this be because of water in the fuel or old gas? I have my fuel running through "T's" from the front to back and ending as the back carb so maybe if there werewater in the fuel it is pooling there? and when I go to start it it acts like it is running on 1 carb for about 30 seconds of dancing with the pedal then the rest come in, it runs pretty decent for a little while maybe 5 minutes, or a mile drive then it starts sputtering, popping, and running like crap at anything other then idle. I have my timing set at 15 deg with the advance unplugged now as well. runs decent, however the transition from about 2000-3500 or so RPM is rough ad sometimes requires a flick of the pedal and clutch work to make happen... think this is where the old gas comes in. I am guessing on the RPM's too because I just lost all of my gauges except the speeding and voltmeter. so a whole new issue to play with. I have a lot more time to work on it now though so I am hoping to get it all dialed in. all help is greatly appreciated.

thats a good tip!

gonna mess with that as well tomorrow... to get the idle to 1500 I have to physically pull up on the throttle linkage. otherwise it is at 2000-2500 rpm still. so maybe pull the carbs to check the butterflies or run the smaller idle jet and if that fixes it were good?

also quick note that the carbs were freshly tanked and rebuilt just prior to my getting them...

corrections to make today then: 1. unplug Vac Advance 2. check timing (My car did get hot yesterday whe I was messing with it... I chocked that up to low coolant levels yesterday) 3. by adjustig idle advance yo turn the distributor until you can free-rev the car to MAX RPM? 4. ALSO, I did backfire out the carb a couple times yesterday on one of thos 3k-4k revs is it possible thats a vc advance deal or state of the current tune? last question. Should I order a 45F9 then to try to get this thing close? It will be some time before I get the CAM for this car so should I order a size lower on the idle jet? just want to get it right. tricked ya... LAST question: will this setup perform "decent" still at 3000-3500 Ft? I am setting up and tuning at about 1000 feet.

I didn't want to muddy the wter with a new thread on this. I have a bone stock N42 head/Block, and a MSA 6-2-1 header that will be getting the 2.5" from the header back. I will be moving to an elevation of about 2800-3000 feet, and want to get it ready for being in that area. I recently acquired triple 40 DCOE - 18's, and here are the specs: 175 Air 130 Main F15 Emu 55 Idle 50 Pump 30 chokes my ideal goal is to get the car to work well between 1000 and 3500 foot elevations, and eventually get a nice cam in it. I also have all the components to perform the EDIS-6 Megajolt Ignition so spark will soon be covered. I want to get fuel relatively close before I put more irons in the fire. I have the mixture screws out 1 turn from the "light stop" the throttle linkage is sitting against the carbs no screw out, and I'm running the MR. Gasket 4-7 PSI pump, and a Dial adjust regulator bringing the Fuel Pressure down to 3 PSI my problem is the lowest I can get the damn thing to idle is 1500 RPMS, then when I blip the gas it goes to 2500 rpm and stays there. also the car doesn't rev out past 4000 RPM's without some serious popping and sputtering. ALSO, I have te Vacuum advance piped to the "T" fitting off te canon manifold where the brake booster comes out... should I leave that unplugged? furthermore this is a 90% street car... and eeds to stay as such. very little track time... I know someone on here knows.... SHARE THE LOVE!

the problem ended up being the fuse on the bottom left in the passenger compartment. must have blown when we checked some things... I remember going through it, and it was all good... remember to check things twice.

woops... added triple webers. I believe the pesky deal in the passenger floorboard is the source of my suffering... gett a diagram from a local Z-enthusiast today to help iron out the key-on connections to it... also ordered the EDIS conversion stuff so I can stop the headaches later

anyone have any idea? just unplugged and removed the FI harness and unplugged that crap. nothing else.

what came out that I need? I love wiring....

make me an offer have 225/240 eibaxhs azc strut sizes and ground control sleeves with al new strut inserts.

make me an offer have 225/240 eibaxhs azc strut sizes and ground control sleeves with al new strut inserts.

Awesome. looks like the 2-1 collector "Y" section unbolts too, so could go for real true duals. 6-2 exhaust.(3-1)

just picked up a car and a bunch of "goodies" and am curious what brand this header looks like? thanks in advance....