jmark06

Yes I did swap the pulley over and I did remove the external regulator when doing the swap. I agree it's probably fried now because it was fine before I touched those leads together. I'll try to find a source for the rebuild parts.

Any ideas on this one?

I swapped a 90 amp maxima alternator into my '77 280z and did the maxifuse upgrade at the same time. After I got all the wiring sorted out it worked well...around 13v at idle and 14.5 under throttle, for months. I was working on it the other day when I accidentally touched the +coming out of the alternator to the ground and there was a big spark. Since then it hasn't worked right. It seems to hold around 12.5v but dosen't change any with throttle. When I disconnect it the voltage drops down around 12.1v so it's definitely doing something. If I pull it off the battery and check the output it's around 18v. I went and had it tested at Advance Auto and it checked OK. Does this sound like a messed up voltage regulator and if so what can I do to fix it?

Well the pressure rises a little before it starts coughing and then drops when it coughs but hen shoots back up. The inj banks light up on the stim board so it seems like everything is working properly. I'm guessing that if Q1 and Q5 were fried that the injectors wouldn't fire at all. Is there anything in the computer that could cause this, no settings have changed. If the VB921 was fried it wouldn't fire at all right? I checked cylinder 1 with a timing light again and it seemed sparatic when I opened the throttle up some, but I don't know if that was caused by the coughing or the spark itself. Could the 30 year old coil be the problem? It was running perfectly one minute and then terribly the next. I could be wrong but it seems to be getting worse, like even the idle struggles a little and now even 800 rpms coughs badly. The AFR is showing 16 at adle and 19+ with any throttle at all.

I've serached some, but I'm in a hruuy cause my car is broken down in a neighborhood about 15 min away and I need to get it out of there today if possible. I was driving my 280z (I rebuilt an 82 turbo engine, using MS1 v3.0, stock dizzy, firing with internal VB... and stock coil, supra 440cc injectors, walb 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, JSK O-ring rail) and it was runing fine for about 30 min. I got on it a little a couple of times only to about 4 or 5 psi boost and it did fine. Then one time when I got on it some, maybe 2 or 3 psi it starting choking when I slowed down. I pulled over and it idled fine. Whenever I got over about 1000 rpm though it started coughing bad. I had to get someone to come pick me up cause it was dark and I had no tools or computer. Today I went back and hooked my computer up to it. Still cranks OK and idles fine at 600-700 rpms. But when I open the throttle up, even slowly it coughs badly after about 1000rpms and never gets better. It runs into the 18+ air:fuel. I checked both the pre and post pump fuel filters and they seem fine. The pump seems to be working OK, but I haven't really tested it. I have constant 38 psi pressure at idle but when it starts to cough the pressure drops off some. I checked the spark with a timing light and everything looked fine. I just don't know what could have happened to cause this all of a sudden. I pulled each plug wire individually and it sounded like all 6 cylinders are firing at least at idle. Nothing seems weird with the megasquirt except Q1 and Q5 are not bolted down to the heat sink. They don't appear to be fried though, but maybe I can't see it. I guess they weren't bolted down before, but I really don't remember, I don;t knwo how they would have just popped up though if they were. My req fuel is 7.1, inj opening time 1.1, PWM current 20%, and PWM time threshold 1.1. None of these settings have changed since it was running fine. Any ideas?

My starter was no good and I replaced it so the car turns over no problem now. I eventually decided that my CAS was the problem so I bought a new one. STILL NO TACH SIGNAL on MS. I checked and I have 12V going to the red wire, the black wire is grounded, and the signal wire is connected to the white wire. I have the 1k res wired into the MS board as per DIYautotune.com. I pulled the distributor out and wired the 12v and ground wires up and put a meter on the output spade. No voltage when I turn the shaft. Maybe I somehow got the wiring mixed up when I was rewiring everything. Does anyone know which spade is what on the CAS itself, not referencing the old wiring. I'm running out of ideas. The tach works fine with the stim board hooked up.

Yes I have 12 volts to the distributor during cranking. I've checked all the wiring from the distributor back and it's all fine. Now I can't get the engine to turn over, I think it's because my battery is too dead to turn the starter. It turned over on the first try after I charged the battery for a couple of hours, but hasn't since then. On that first try though the tach in megasquirt didn't work at all (or my car tach for that matter). I want to check the signal wire and see if it's gettin gany voltage during cranking to make sure the CAS is working correctly. If it is, which I will find out tomorrow, then I must have a problem with the megasquirt I'm guessing. The car was running fine with the old computer so my thought was that the CAS was OK. I just though it would be some kind of loose wire issue or something since it works sometimes and others it doesn't. But all of the wiring checks out when I test it with my multimeter. My hands are bleeding and I'm cold and frustrated, any suggestions?

Any suggestions? should it be 1k or 330 ohm? I think that the capacitor is OK but I'll replace it anyway. I'm really frustrated with it.

I tried to set my timing before cranking my engine and had very sparatic tach signal the few times that I got one. I'm using an 82 dizzy to give the signal, wired according to DIYautotune. I got a signal sometimes when I tried to turn the engine (fuel pump fuse pulled) but usually nothing and sometimes when it did show something on the MS tach it would jump around and then go off. I rewired all the areas from the dizzy back that still had some of the old wiring and still have the same problem. When I hook it to the stim the tach seems to work fine. I went back to make sure everything was wired properly inside the MS box and noticed on the DIY website that the instructions say to use a 330 ohm resistor but the drawing shows a 1k resistor. I'm using a 330 ohm, is that a problem? It looks like my capacitor at C11 is fried so I need to replace it, but I don't know if that will fix the problem. I think I have everything from a software side set up correctly. MSns is set and only LED 17 set to Spark output. Spark is set to inverted YES and cranking RPMs set to 300. Voltage is good in crank and run. Any ideas? Like I said it seems to sometimes work, but most of the time nothing, I'm hoping the capacitor is the problem or maybe I'm using the wrong resistor.

Aftermarket O-ring with supra 440cc injectors

Is there any reason I shouldn't run my feed line from behind the engine along the fuel rail, then turn 180 back into the rail at the front of the engine? Will it heat up the fuel or anything that I don't want? I just think it might look good but I don't want to do it that way if there is a better way. I'm running stainless braided hose.

Thanks Pop N Wood, I'm looking for about 300 hp when I finish using MS extra and supra 440cc injectors. I beleive the outlet on the tank is around 7/16" but I was going to come off of there straight to 6 AN hose then to a filter with 6 AN inlet and outlet. Will that be OK for my setup or do I need to go 8 AN before the pump?

I'm getting ready to plumb up my turbo engine in my 77 280z and need a couple of questions answered. I've searched and figured most of it out, but want to make sure. I want to use 6 AN braided from the tank, to filter, to pump, to filter, to rail, to regulator, to return, to tank. I measured the tubes coming out of my tank the the top one is bigger than the bottom one. I figured the bottom would be the outlet (to the pump) but it's smaller, I think 5/16". The top is closer to 3/8" or 7/16". So which should I use as the outlet? Secondly, do the AN to tubing compression fittings from Earl's work well? And finally, what tools will I need to put everything together, I've not worked with AN fittings and hose very much? Thanks for your input.

I'm getting ready to plumb up my turbo engine in my 77 280z and need a couple of questions answered. I've searched and figured most of it out, but want to make sure. I want to use 6 AN braided from the tank, to filter, to pump, to filter, to rail, to regulator, to return, to tank. I measured the tubes coming out of my tank the the top one is bigger than the bottom one. I figured the bottom would be the outlet (to the pump) but it's smaller, I think 5/16". The top is closer to 3/8" or 7/16". So which should I use as the outlet? Secondly, do the AN to tubing compression fittings from Earl's work well? And finally, what tools will I need to put everything together, I've not worked with AN fittings and hose very much? Thanks for your input.

Carjway, were you able to fit your injector electical connections on with the injectors cocked sideways like that?

I can't find any info on this. How are those of you using 440cc Supra Turbo injectors mounting them The small seal from the Z injectors seams to work right at the intake manifold but the big rubber seal slips around on the injectors. So how are ya'll holding them in? I can't seem to find seals with a small enough ID to fit the Supra injectors and still have a large enough OD to fill the injector retainers. Thanks.

1) I've searched and it appears that MSI is the way to go for turbo applications. Well I just bought a used MSII v3 so it already has MSII. I already have a v2.2 partial kit from a long time ago (haven't built it yet) so I could use the computer from it to have MSnSE. But I've read on the forums about work on Extra firmware for the MSII board. I'm planning on using the stock ignition parts or maybe MSD. Which processor would you go with? 2)Also it apperars that the previous owner did the FORD idle upgrade casue there are jumpers from Q4 to the Q9 transistor which is fried. Do I need to replace this for an L28ET?

Ok that's what I figured, oh well, it's always something. I already checked the freeze plug in the head and unfortunatly that's not it. It's a 52mm plug right? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here.

Ya I thought about something like that that you run through the engine for like a half hour and it fills all the leaks. Has anyone done this and how does it affect the engine? I hate to do it cause I just rebuilt and everything is so clean inside, but I don't want to pull the engine out either. How detrimental is that stuff?

I just rebuilt my turbo motor to put and put it in my 77 280z. It had a coolant leak and I discovered it was from the water pump so I replaced it and no leak there now. But the bad news is that it is leaking coolant from the bellhousing right at the engine. It's definatly coolant and not gear oil. I'm affraid it might be the big freeze plug in the back of the engine covered by the clutch. I messed up the first one putting it in so I had to buy a new one that didn't seem to fit as snug when I installed it. Does this sound like it could be the problem and is there anything to do to fix it besides pulling the engine completely?

Has anyone tried this fan or have an opinion on it for a stock turbo radiator to fit ic piping? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8058785556&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

hook up the test light to what?

I've tried to wire my 82 turbo motor into my 77z accordding to bumblebz and others on here, I've done so many searches. I have YW from plug 2 going to FI harness, then the Y from the 8pin, the BW from the ignitor, and the BW (the short one) from the FI relay going to the BY wire in the 6pin that I think is connected to the ignition switch. I have the G and Br (the ones from plug 1) going to the + battery. Then I used the RL wire and wired a new relay for the fuel pump. I beleive everything is right. Well when I turn the key nothing happens at all...nothing, the gages don't move, the starter, dosen't turn, nothing. I had my starter tested already. I moved the wire from the + battery to the other terminal on the starter motor and the starter started spinning.. not engaging but spinning so I think it works. Any ideas what might be the problem. Is there part of the old harness I'm supposed to have in that I don't know about, I left everything on the passenger side from the 77 harness. Maybe I'm missing a ground? I tried hooking to other wires in the 6pin that I think is connected to the ign switch and nothing happened with any of them excpet one that turned on the fuel pump... nothing else. Any help would be greatly appreciated cause my girlfriend is waiting for me at the beach (I'm on spring break) but my dad said I have to have the car running before I can go down. THANKS

I just finished rebuild my turbo engine and have it in my 77 280z. I already bought megasquirt, supra inj, JSK fuel rail, walbro fuel pump, 240sx tb with tps when I HAD money over the summer (those days are over). Now I'm trying to wire everything up using the 280zxt electronics. I thought this would be the way to go to break the engine in. The problem is that I took the engine and all it's components out of an 82 zxt that hadn't been driven in like 9 years or something so I have no idea if the injectors, AFM, or anything are working. Should I just go ahead and try to install MS with the supra injectors that work or still attempted the stock install for break in? This would free up more room for my intercooler install and I could just vent the BOV, but I don't want to be destroying the engine with bad tuning and stuff. What do yall think? Oh I have a hybrid turbo now, if that matters, and a 76 inatke manifold so no egr to mess with:)

Well I called the machine shop today told him I had an inline 6, nissan 280zx engine that was internally balanced, could he balance the flywheel by himself. He said he would research it and then I called him back a few hours later when he said I need the crank, rods, damper, and flywheel. What should I do, he seems to think that it's not possible without the rest of the engine but several here say it is?