skirkland1980
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Posts posted by skirkland1980
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I never got the greatest results miging ss with 308 wire and 75/25. On the rear section of the exhaust I used the er70s wire and painted the welds with high temp silver spray paint.
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I know slovers is very experienced with datsun heads though I can't speak from experience. Maybe some folks here relate?
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Mack trucks use those type washers for their turbo coolant supply on the mp7 and mp8 engines. Those you linked to show to be for fuel and may or maynot handle the heat. I have a dozen mack washers but they're 16mm.
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Welded the axle tube and picked up some jeep liberty wheels. They are 16x8" with 5" backspace. Hopefully will start removing old rear end from the car this weekend.
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The holley blue pump is good. I used one for several years on my carbureted camaro.
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Cool. My buddy said he's coming tomorrow to do the welding then I'm going to remove the current rear from the car. Getting the rear end square in the chassis is going to be fun. Also I'm hoping that the new diff cover isn't going to hit the area where the old diff mount attaches. I have a solution just hoping I don't have to notch that crossmember.
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I'm going to use this jegs ladder bar kit. I got it on sale for $160 free shipping. The quality looks really good. From my experience with drag racing rear suspension tells me to make the lower bar parallel to the ground. I'm going to try to use the stock rear struts with a custom bracket.
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Edit: longer tube is on the left, short on the right. Get an extra short axle. If you go to a do it yourself salvage yard you can swap axles before you pay.
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I've started a 8.8"swap. Some may ne interested, others may hate me. Just documenting so others will know what's involved if they want to do a swap. First thing I did was go to the local junk yard and find a late 90s explorer. These are plentiful. So far I've seen 3.55, 3.73, and 4.11 ratios. The 4.11 appears to be the common ratio for 4x4s. Some also have clsd. All will have disk brakes. The explorer rear has a long axle tube on the right side and shorter tube on the left. You want to take out exactly 2.875" from the longer tube and use two right side axles. Here are some pics of what I've done so far. I will update as I go. First picture is the unshortened axle with brackets cut off. Second pic is after the first cut. Third pic is with the correct amount removed, beveled, tack welded, and axles in place.
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And I didn't mean completely sealed by the way. Of course dry ice has to breathe.
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What about building a sealed compartment on top of the intake to hold dry ice? I'm not sure how long dry ice would last though. I know it lasts about 24 hours at room temp.
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I think most people who own junk yards really just love junk and really hate selling anything. I went to a junk yard and wanted to buy a carburetor off a car but the guy wouldn't sell it. I'm thinking what kind of junk yard won't sell their inventory? Another yard I went to the guy wanted to bitch about how a parked. I was the only customer there and the distributor I bought was already pulled.
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Have you called your local nissan dealership? Since you have the part number they can order it if it's still available.
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I've been trying different methods of removal on a spare head. It seems the intake guides come out fairly easily however I broke two exhaust guides. They seem to get stuck.
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Or possible noise on the tps signal or map sensor.
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How many blocks are on the ms1 fuel map? Maybe there's too much variation from block to block?
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If you measure toe in with the weight on the front wheels the jack up the car and take the weight off and measure toe in that will give you yhe amount of bump steer. I just don't know what the spec is.
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I've heard of a way where you drill out the spindle and install an insert and mount the rod end upside down to correct bump steer.
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Dumb question here. Is techno toy tuning and T3 the same thing?
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After reading this I'm considering replacing my stock guides with manganese bronze guides myself. I've seen them for sale on ebay but does anyone have a better source? Thanks.
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So I removed the head last night and removed the stuck valve. The guide is just rusty. The valve isn't bent or galled. It doesn't make sense. The car has only been sitting about a month. It's sat for much longer with no problem. Head was also just rebuilt in February. I tapped the valve out then slid it back in and now it's moving freely. I'm lost as to why the guides are getting corroded unless it does have something to do with the leaded fuel. I have used water/meth injection in the past but not this year but that would seem to effect the intake valves?
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First it was #6 exhaust, then #1 exhaust. I'm not really sure it's the lead causing it. I ran my camaro for years on leaded fuel and it would sit untouched all winter and not have a problem but it had stainless valves and bronze guides. I'm not using a pre 1970s style fuel. I'm using 115 octane. Its about the most leaded fuel available.
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Thanks. I'm assuming the problem is that the lead is coating the valve stems then oxidizing over time. I might just switch to bronze guides and keep the stock valves since bronze is a little slicker than the iron guides.
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I'm using VP C16 race fuel since I really only race the car as of now. I don't really know what parts of my fuel system are compatible with ethanol. I think ethanol requires bigger injectors? Mine are 540cc so i think that makes them good to about 450 whp?
Anyone familiar with comp cam Magnum 292S 84-135-6?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I tried ordering one of those and was told it's no longer available. Maybe if you call comp directly they can make one for you? My next cam will be an isky regrind. He only charges $140. If you talk to Ron he can grind a cam that I'm sure you would be happy with.