tfreer85
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Posts posted by tfreer85
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Holy crap, that guys lives at most 45 min from me! Hmm maybe a roadtrip coming up soon.
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Wow, I'm so ready to leave California for Oregon or Washington. C'mon federal job!!! I hope to be up there in the next year or so...until then keep the pictures coming.
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SWEETNESS!!! I so wish I could dapple in this metal casting. Great work, looking foward to more updates!
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So this is the plan of action for right now. I stopped by and was actually able to talk with him. Explained the contract we had in place etc. told him I'm not happy with the situation and the voided contract. The guy is wanting the publicity for this type of car, so I told him I'd set up a meeting with him (I was running off to work) and try to hash out some details. See what he is willing to offer me in return for the delays. If he is willing to do something of significance I'll give him about 2-3 weeks time to work on my car and have it running (not including paint or interior finishing). At the end of said period I will either be towing or driving the car out. If i tow it, he gets no recognition, no publicity, and no recommendation on any Z-car website from me. He's been shuffling other cars instead of working on mine. He said he'll be able to or will start working on my car full time as his only project starting next week. So I'm giving him a chance to prove himself and do the work. Its a win win for me, for he'll either finish the work I can't do, or I'll tow it home in the same condition as now. The waiting time gives me time to arrange my garage and get things all set up for the car. Thank you everyone for your input and suggestions.
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Is your issue the quality of the work, the lack of progress, poor communication, or all of the above?
Quality work: Ok
Progress: Poor
Communication: Poor
I've tried stopping by twice a week, once a week, tried being buddy buddy, tried being purely business. I don't like paying X amount of dollars for Y part and have him not have the part because he spent my money on his Mac Tool bill. If I'm paying him for parts, I want to see the parts next to or being installed on my car. Idk maybe I'll just bring it home, I've got my own aparment with garage, majority of work I couldn't do has been done. I'm just aggravated and would rather, get out earlier than be too late and drop more money into it without being completely satisfied.
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I can't DIY even though I wish I could is literally no time. I work 100+ hr work week. Legal action just sounds like more headache than its worth.
While I agree with you John, a competetant shop could easily do the work, its not that hard. Its a matter of having provided both Datsun and JCI manuals, plus bolt kits etc. etc. etc. all to the builder then having him call me complaining a part doesn't fit, when in the manual it tells you what you need to do. While it may not be a MUST, lets just say in my preference I would prefer STRONGLY. The guy does good work, for his cars and for certain types of cars, but is lost when it comes to an old Z.
I'll have to see if I can allot more for a budget for you to do thinks John. I know I've talked to you about this car before. But this just might be the kicker with this other guy. BTW what does FSM stand for?
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That I understand John, to be honest you'd be my dream shop to have work on it. You have z-car racing, modifying experience out to yazoo. Don't get me wrong on this next comment cause I know you always get what you pay for. But you're out of my price range. Here's how the car sits now:
Only thing that has changed is that the rear flares are mounted, though they don't look right. I know you had rough estimated around 12-15k iirc. My problem is the guy is shifting money, i.e. I'm paying him to get my parts, and he's buying tools first then my parts, not too mention He's stretching himself too thin over too many vehicles.
Tyson
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I need a new shop to finish the work on my car. I was told a 7 week completion time for my Z it is now bordering 3 months with less that 1/4 the work done. I want it be as close to the central valley as possible, but if a highly recommended shop or decent price will increase the distance. What i need done is:
Entire car re-wiring
Fuel System plumbing front to back
Dual exhaust
EMS tuning
Interior installed
Flares properly installed
Minor Body Welding
Any suggestions on shops or anyone willing to do the work with a shop is a big plus. As I've found previous Z-car experience is a MUST. Thanks,
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Looking really good, have you been out to the CVZ meets recently? Did you do all your work yourself? I'm getting tired of the shop I'm at dragging his feet.
Thanks,
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Why not cast hte crankshaft out of a high nickel iron? Some of the strongest stock SBC blocks were the "001" castings that had a high nickel content, converted to a 4-bolt splayed they were pretty strong. Based off the machine work I've seen Braap and Rontyler post, I have no doubt in my mind that you could cast a strong, iron cranshaft in with a basic dry sand core. Once you get the finished machining done, nitride or cryogen treatments to make it stronger. There are also forced pressure casting techniques that can bring the casting closer to a forged product. I won't go into technical detail (unless you want), as there are several books that will do a SIGNIFICANTLY better job than I could briefly explain. The series "Metal Casting: A Sand Casting Manual for the Small Foundry" by Stephen Chastain Vol. I and II can take you through the entire process, raw metal, to furnace builds, to getting the best casting. Both books have sections on automotive castings, crankshafts, replica heads, blocks, camshafts, and even pistons. Having read a couple books on it, it doesn't seem like its that hard of a process once you get the basics down. Braap I think, you could easily pick up the trade, not to mention be completely DIY, and completely unique. Not to mention the amount of parts you could replicate, or create for one-offs. If I wasn't in an apartment complex I would be testing and playing around with this option. Just my .02 on the DIY building part.
Second, this may have been addressed already, but have you taken into consideration long rod length or tall piston you'd need to get compression back up when you decrease the stroke? Maybe I've missed something crucial here, but it seems you'd want a shorter rod for the RPM that you're looking to run. I.E. the closer the mass to the center the easier it will be to adjust or minimize rotaional vibrations. Besides having a long rod length and/or tall piston, is to have a shorter deck height correct? At that poitn you're looking at a custom block or heavy machining on a standard block. In my opinion, you're going to want to stay away from the tall piston, to minimize "piston slap" or having to worry about the piston skirt gouging and warping the cylinder walls at such a high RPM. These may be basic or rudimentary concerrs or things already thought about. I haven't looked or studied engine mechanics/theory for a while, so I could be way off and am welcome to corrections. Maybe this helps, maybe not...
couple of examples:
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/guest_joe.html
http://www.metalcastingdesign.com/component/option,com_frontpage/Itemid,1/
http://www.moderncasting.com/component/option,com_rsgallery2/Itemid,142/catid,2/ (AWESOME!)
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Sorry mull I believe they are 255/45/17 rears and 250/45/17 fronts BFG's. Could be wrong I'm horrible with tire sizes. Wheels are Centerlines that have been powdercoated EAS Magic Black: 17x9.5
++++++++EDIT++++++
tires are 275/40/17 Rear and 255/40/17 Front
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Thanks for the words Austin. I always appreciate your input, however I'm way past the date to return my EZ wiring. Whats your reasoning for dislike? So I'm aware to notify the shop.
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Wheels and tires mounted.
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PROGRESS!!! So my car has now being worked on by a shop, wish I could have done it myself but the more and more I worked on it the more I realized it was out of my scope for abilities. Also soon to be enlisting in the National Guard so hopefully I get to keep her at least in storage. Rear flares are should be cut so I should have pics of them up soon.
Tyson
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I bet this guy would like it
I would honestly have liked to see the guy WALK with all that crap. Don't get me wrong, its a legitimate concern, but seems hard pressed for someone to walk with a shotgun up their *ss....
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Are there any pictures of that Accurate Injection setup installed on an LS1? I haven't been able to dig one up.
Not that I know of. You'd have to ask Kevin from Accurate Injection.
Tyson
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Accurate Injection, for my LS1, still in their boxes though
Still looking for a shop to do the work .Tyson
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Thanks Raff, I'll play around with the shadow a little more. The only thing I'm dead set on keeping is the "TWF" in the middle of each design, the outsides are you standard vector images motifs.
Tyson
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Thats the real trick, isnt it? A picture can be technically correct in all the way's we can find to define it, but if it doesn't 'make us think', its just another picture. Its one of the (many) things I'm stuggling with myself.
Quite honestly its one of the many reasons I don't take as many pictures. I over censor myself with pictures I've seen, or try too hard to find that grandiose mind blowing make you think picture, reality that I've been finding is I do it by accident really. When I stop thinking about making an impression on someone and make an impression I like and seeing if it comes across, my pictures are better or at least make me happy. Anyways a little picture philosophy, I really need to start taking some more pics.
Tyson
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Off the wall stuff, I'm a big fan of print graphics (letterheads, business cards etc.) so here are a few I've done in Illustrator. Opinions/modifications are always welcome for constructive ideas, etc.!
Thanks,
Tyson
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Finally took some more, some are you cliche-esq beach scenes but I had fun with the practice.
Playing around with light, tis always fun.
Tyson
(and now back to your regularly scheduled Rontyler showcase
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New wheels need to be powdercoated black IMO, would really make it them give a good contrast.
Tyson
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I like a lot! How did you do it?
Tyson
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Looks like you need to convert it to a vector image as well if you plan on using it for print material (shirts, letterheads, envelopes, etc.) Also you deadset on that logo or are you wanting a complete revamp?
Tyson
Still looking for a shop to do the work 
)
WTB or WTT for an LSX/T56 early Z
in Cars Wanted
Posted
How rough is the g-nose? Pics and a price on it if you don't mind Ken,
Thanks!