motomanmike
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Posts posted by motomanmike
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I've done the alternator swaps with 3 years no issue by simply cutting the stock alternator T plug off, wiring a diode to the proper ign terminal and jumping the sense wire right to the battery stud. I left the stock regulator and everything plugged in on the main harness on both my cars. My ammeter works and has worked the past 3 years no issue. Both are 1973, same charging system on the 260. Much easier simply wiring a new plug configuration. My first z 3 years and my second z going on a year. Your battery drain is your alternator wiring configuration most likely Tony D, you have your constant hot to the ignition terminal and its sucking the battery down. I had this issue also at first.
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I'm in search of a coil, with bracket, and coil igniotor along with that portion of the wiring harness for an L28ET. I know I could fab something up but i'd much rather just have it plug and play as it is a car i'm getting running to sell. I appreciate any direction you can steer me in as a few companies i'm not naming want an organ donation price for them.
Regards,
Mike L
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I'd worry more about finding a good chassis, then finding the engine set you want. Be patient. A good base to swap into is far more important than whats powering it. These cars did rust, some rusted on the way over here so finding a good chassis is the biggest part of the battle in my opinion. 280z not so much but 260z and 240z not rusty is hard to find at a reasonable price. Are you sure you want a Z? Why do you want a Z ( I don't know who wouldn't) but ask yourself all of these questions before hand. They are what I like to refer to as a "RAW CAR". No power steering, very few creature comforts just raw mechanical greatness. I had S13's built up years ago, way before the drift scene blew up in the US, they both had RB20's in them, Again I can't stress this was AWHILE ago, say 1996-97. I loved the cars, however as soon as Fast and the Furious came out the uniqueness of them went away and everyone wanted drift cars. I didn't like it so I sold them all. Now I see S13's every day with turbo motors but I don't see any Z cars on the road on my daily grind and I like that uniqueness. I bought my first Z knowing nothing about them, who Datsun was made by or anything. Its rusty, i've got it patched together almost looks rat roddish. Knowing now what I know I never would have bought that car. I'm glad I did though I was much more choosy on the second one I bought. I bought a second one cheaper than I could have done the body on the first one. Just some food for thought.
Regards,
Mike
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Anytime I've shipped them, I built a small JIG. I used the metal parts of the motor mounts that bolt to the block they bolt to the mount on the crossmember by two bolts. I cut some boards at angles and screwed the motor mounts to the boards and it sat on the pallet very similar to how it mounts in the car. Worked great on the last one I got shipped here from florida. It keeps the pan from getting beat up. So basically it sits likes its mounted in the car but on a pallet. I used two of the transmission bolts on the back of the block bolted through wood supports so it wasn't "laying" on the pallet at all. Then finished with criss crossed ratchet straps and it was solid as could be. Use good wood though, not some pine or something it will fail. Don't ask me how i know.
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Mines an 82 block with the CAS on the distributor, which from what I've read isn't the greatest in design but its what I'm working with. GM HEI seems the route I will take, its much cheaper and I don't plan on going much over 5000rpm on this engine for now, apparently these motors don't make much more power past that anyhow in stock form. Thanks again. I'll keep posting pics of the progress. Its getting there.... slowly but i'm taking my time to make sure its all good to go before the install. Its a heck of alot easier to work on the motor on the cradle then in the car for sure.
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Simply awesome! I would love to hear them run.
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Below is everything i've got. Car its going in, Motor on stand, one side blasted and painted. New oil pan and competition gasket on. I'm about to tear the intake and exhaust manifold off, replace the gasket and paint it. Replace all the gaskets I can, oil pump, water pump, timing set, front and rear main seals and i'll throw it in. We shall see how it goes.
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The post you linked ctc was the same one I was reading when I said huh, i'm missing that but the pictures aren't very clear of it all. I'm pretty sure I can retrofit a transistor from an old battery charger or old old leece neville truck alt i've got laying around. Or just find an HEI I guess. The main reason i'm getting clarification is i don't want much down time. cgsheen, you touch on a few very interesting points. Over the past 5-6 months i've done nothing but read. I pondered v8 swaps, VG30 swaps, VQ swaps, RB swaps. I chose the L28ET just because of the simplicity of the single cam design and ease of the swap basically foot print being the same but I am seeing so much of the frankensteining (sure I spelled that fake word wrong LOL). Parts interchanging with other series of engines etc. I don't have a base to judge how good things work or what I should modify because I havn't even installed it and got it running yet. I will, i'm more than capable. I appreciate not being flamed. I stopped using another Z site when I first got my first Z years ago because of people being nasty. People have questions. I sell DC electrical parts and rebuild alternators and starter motors. I here the same questions over and over from the same people every day. I smile, lead them to water and hope they don't drown. Thanks for the help, I'll post some pics up in a bit of what I've got going on.
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Ok guys, don't blast me, i'm not new to Z cars I own 2 240z's and have been through every aspect of them but I am new to this turbo swap L28ET i'm about to do. I'm in the process of gathering all the inventory for this swap and i'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on installing. What I have is a total engine with all accessories, intake, injectors, distributor. F54 block, P90 head with the big finned intake with egr valve. All vacuum lines etc. Almost like they cut the oil lines and pulled. I have the total engine wiring harness with the injector plugs etc, the main harness. I have the air flow meter, ecu. What I think i'm missing is the coil ignitor, the little transistor but what i'm not sure of is if its on or plugs into the main engine harness or if i need another part of the wiring from the car. Any ideas? I'll post pics tonight of what I have. All i'm trying to find out is if that part of the wiring is separate from the main wiring harness that goes to the ECU. I know I need the ignitor because its not in my box of parts and I see it on the diagrams and see posts about it causing firing issues with people. I'm just trying to find out if I'm on a wild goose chase trying to find another part of the wiring harness. I appreciate everyones help.
Mike
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L28 will cost you substantially less to achieve decent power. The VG swap is entising. I pondered it myself months ago but opted for a much less costly direction with a lot less modification to the car itself. Depends on whether you are fed up with what you had I guess. I'd love a VG30 Z, thats a big motor it would just sound awesome and aren't nearly as common as the L28et swaps however\ its a lot more entailed than the L28 and even though everyone says Its a non issue I really don't like the idea of cutting the front cross member for the oil pan. If you do end up going that route i'd be interested in what you have currently.
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I'm not sure if the injectors fire for one split second like they do on alot of cars on the Z's or not but I have had success at the shop with having people turn their key on for a second or two, rotate back, back on a second or two and then back and then try to start. It usually will prime the fuel system pretty good in that manner regardless of what kind of car it is. Just another free thing to try.
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Just curious if this solved your issue because i'm pondering buying a set of eibach springs and run the same tire wheel set up.
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I appreciate everyones replies. I have sourced an engine set. Thanks again.
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I'M IN SEARCH OF A TURBO L-SERIES MOTOR WITH ASSOCIATED PARTS TO RUN FOR A SWAP SO I NEED A SET UP WITH WIRING HARNESS, ECU, INJECTORS, AIR FUEL METER ETC. EVERYTHING TO SWAP INTO A NON TURBO CAR. I'M IN MD AND HAVE A FORKLIFT AND LOADING DOCK SO NO WORRIES THERE. PLEASE CONTACT ME WITH A LANDED PRICE, ITEM AND SHIPPING TO 21837. ASLO INTERESTED IN A WHOLE CAR TO PULL THIS FROM IF WITHIN 2-3 HOURS OF THIS ZIP CODE.
REGARDS,
MIKE L
What battery is everyone using
in Ignition and Electrical
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AGM's are sensitive to charge voltage being that they can't vent but are the best for the application as they will never drip battery acid. I use lead acid batteries, Deka brand, 624mf part number. I've thought about AGM batteries but the auto group sizes are steep.