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Adimir

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Posts posted by Adimir

  1. Just want to say thanks to all that have shared maps, and writeups, thanks Mobythevan for answering my PM's and the awesome writeup you did. I dont have much knowledge on MS to give input so I dont post much, but I did read lots! This is first startup after having it rebuilt and going turbo on it.

     

     

    440cc injectors

    JSK fuel rail

    Aeromotive FPR

    walbro 255lph pump

    t3t04

    240sx TB

    '83 dizzy

     

    still have some odds and ends to do but all in all ...accomplishment is felt!

    its loud due to no exhaust and sound is crappy but enjoy!

  2. Any body on here that is running the HEI module that can tell me whether you wired the coil with 12v or not.??

     

    Black White (BW) wire connected to coil + - - the black and white wire in schematics shows to be switched 12v

    HEI module connected to coil + (as in the schematic)

    coil + is connected to a condenser

    condenser black wire then connects to the base of the distributor

    coil - is only conected to the HEI module as in the schematic

     

    is your coil still good also? with that constant 12v to it, you might have fried it inside.

  3. from what i have read it takes NO time to fry those things, even a bad ground with no heat sink could fry it. I would get it tested and make sure it works now, im pretty new to this whole thing too so no expert here.

  4. Latest update...

     

    No closer it seems.. I bought a new HEI module and put it in. I made sure the option on spark inverted was on NO. As far as my wiring I have 12v going to the coil positive. then I have the HEI module wired as follows:

     

    Pin G goes to FIDLE on the relay board and also has a pull up resistor to 5v ref. Pin w goes to a chassis ground. Pin B goes to the (+) lead on the coil and Pin C goes to (-) lead on the coil. I still have no spark and the ground bolt on the HEI module thats nearest to the Pins that go to the coil gets hot almost immediately. What could cause this side of the module to get so hot so quickly . Should I have not ran a 12v to the coil positive that runs to the HEI pin B. Im so lost on why the HEI module is getting so hot so quickly.

     

    Thanks for baring with me. I just have no idea why this module isn't giving me spark and is heating so quickly.

     

    As far as the instructions go you dont need live to the coil, just pos and neg from HEI. Your live to coil is probably feeding the HEI and making it heat up.

  5. First off i have a 75 280z with a 82 l28et swap. Im running MS1 v2.2 with a gm HEI4, i also have a relay board from DIY. I have hooked everything up as Moby's writeup and double and triple checked my wiring. One thing I need to go back and make sure is my switched 12v source, Im not 100% sure it is live during cranking. The problems I am having is first with no no spark during cranking. I am pretty sure that the switched source i have, which is from the fuse box, is good and i was hoping to get some tips on were to check to make sure the different components in my ignition circuitry are good and have the proper voltage supplied to them.

     

    I set the base timing as described in moby's writeup and set my middle led to IRQ trigger. When i moved the distributor i got the middle led to light up so i preceded to tighten the dizzy down and go from there. I also have the fuel pump hooked up and tested it with just a constant 12v power wire to make sure it works. In megatune the fuel pump shows that it is getting the 5 sec prime but it never seems to actually turn on. And under cranking the fuel pump doesn't turn on. I am confused as to what could cause all these problems since i hooked everything up from moby's writeup and purchased a new hei module so i am certain it is good. The car ran fine when i started this project so the other components should be ok. I cant seem be able to attach my msq, so i will just type some of the settings and if you guys need more info or pictures ill post them.

     

    CODE BASED OUTPUTS

    FIDLE function - spark output A

    LED17 - squirt

    LED18 - IRQ trigger

    LED19 - acceleration

     

    SPARK SETTINGS

    Trigger angle - 60

    Angle addition - +45

    Spark out inverted - yes

     

    DWELL SETTINGS

    dwell control - fixed duty

    duty cycle - minimal for HEI4

     

    Im not sure what else to include. sorry for the long post

     

    thanks for all your help and being patient..

     

    Well just from reading this and moby;s install, you have one thing wrong i think...

     

    from install notes:

    "Also, if you use the GM 4 pin HEI module, go into MegaTuneSS under trigger and cranking window and make sure the invert box is NOT checked. At first I had this box set to invert the output and it caused my cranking timing and running timing to differ by 20 crank degrees."

  6. I have a 81 280zx NA, I am close to getting the turbo engine together and into the car...I am using 440cc injectors, 255lph walbro fuel pump, areomotive FPR, JSK fuel rail, I was wondering if my stock fuel lines have to be upgraded to something bigger? I am going to be running a t3/t4, I want to run 15-18psi of boost. How much can these lines flow? and what do you suggest I upgrade them to if insufficient.

    thanks.

  7. yes you can sand it ...you have to be carefull....

    for my paint, as you saw, after spraying the base coat (which was flat black), i got specks in it...so i sanded it down with 800 WET...and then put another coat of base before i cleared it...but remember..if you didnt sand under the basecoat...all the scratches are UNDER it so in order to take them out...you would have to go trough the basecoat i dont know if you wanna do that...gotta pic?...if not still wet sand it with 800 and dont go trough and should look way beter

  8. took off the window trim...

     

    also its not really going to be 7...i sprayed 4 i sanded some off (probably lost one whole coat) then ill spray 3 and sand again...so ill lose another half or one whole coat to make it perfect...so im looking at 5-6 for depth...

     

    but yeah thanks guys :)

  9. im n00b at paint too...but i decided to see how i can do...so far its good...im happy, its not perfect there is flaws but im am overwhelmed with what i accomplished. with the roller...it will turn out as shiny and as good if you put on enough to have when you sand it down it will smooth out :)

    painting is not the issue..its the prep...

    thanks!

  10. thanks guys yea its looking good...well im spraying another 3 coats to give the paint more depth...it should look way deeper then what it is now... i wanna stare at it and wanna feel like i could nose dive into it!!! :P ive had no trouble so far with dust and bugs...there is a speck here and there but nothing bad at all...

  11. thanks i got more sanding to do before spraying 3 more layers of clear...its been chilly outside so i stoped...

    well its suppose to be Dodge Viper Black...and there seems to be some shade to it...i dont know but i love how it turned out so far.....i think brown comes from my oak garage walls...yes my whole garage is solid oak!!!

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