drzed
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Posts posted by drzed
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I think I have a spare in my garage. $50 + shipping sound OK? PM me if interested.
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As the title says, I am looking for someone who knows SDS 6F's specifically. I have been on the phone with SDS daily, Barry is awesome but I need someone local to lend a hand and have another set of eyes. I would be willing to pay for your time as well.
Thanks,
I know I'm not in the area but I've tuned a couple of SDS systems and am just finishing the install of an EM3 6F in my 260Z. If there is anything I can help with let me know.
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Turbo "Swashtica" wheels fit great. I've seen 235-60-15s mounted on the back w/ stock springs and stock fenders. I currently have 155-80-15s on the front of mine and 225-50-15s on back. Rim is 6 inches wide and is fine for these size tires. I run it front and back.
I have some of these and am leaning this way for now. Mine are actually snow flakes and they are even heavier by about 2 pounds each but the offset is about right. The 235/60/R15 MT ET street radials I'm looking at recommend minimum 6.5" wide wheels but I guess 1/2" less might still work OK. Thanks for the info.
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i got some 15x8s that are in great shape but theyre not "drag" wheels theyre nice old american racing style chrome wheels....they look great though, negative offset, deep lips and i run 245-60-15s in the rear
Unfortunately these won't work - the offset is wrong to get the tires I'm looking for. Looks like I'll need something with a small positive offset. Thanks anyway
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im wondering will a 28/9.o/14 tire fit on a datsun mag (14x7) rim on the back of a 240z without using spacer
im wondering will a 235/60/14 tire fit on a datsun mag (14x7) rim on the back of a 240z without using spacer
im wondering will a 26/8.0/14 tire fit on a datsun mag (14x7) rim on the back of a 240z without using spacer
i need drag tire on my car 14x7 rim on my car and i want to use those rim....help me find the best fit for my car...what tire size i need to run in the 10's 1/4 mile range...
thank
The easiest way to get 14 x 7 rims and a drag tire is to use 14x7 Toyota Supra wheels with MT ET Drag 26/8.50 14's. I'm using them on my Late 260Z with rolled fender lips, no spacer, and the center of the mag machined a little larger to clear the end on the stub axel flange. Works well with lots of traction but I find the slicks a little loose running down the track (the car wanders from side to side). I don't think you will get anything taller and probably not anything too much wider. You actually listed 26/8.00 14's above and this might be a better size for the supra rims as mine are just touching the rolled fender lip with the top of the tread under the right conditions. Let me know if you have any other questions about this as I am going though the same issue right now trying to find a way to upsize to 15's and maybe go to MT ET Street radials to improve the handling at speed.
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i got some 15x8s that are in great shape but theyre not "drag" wheels theyre nice old american racing style chrome wheels....they look great though, negative offset, deep lips and i run 245-60-15s in the rear
Might work. How much? Could I get a couple of pics? Can I get a backspace measurement? Any idea how much they weight? 2 or 4 available?
Thanks
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No one has anything they want to sell?
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I'm looking for a set of drag race wheels for my 260Z. Must be 4 on 4 1/2" stud spacing and 15". Rears to be 7" or 8" wide and fronts 4" - 6" wide but will look at others. These are for a stock bodied late 260Z with rolled rear fender lips. Still using stock suspension but may convert to coil overs for more tire room if required. At this point I'm looking to run 26-8.50 15 MT drag slicks on the rear and front runners or sportsmans on the front but have not purchased them yet so may look at your available tires as well. Will look at any wheels but would prefer something lightweight.
Thanks
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I currently have a open R180 with a 3.54 gear ratio and I have been able to find good deals on a Subaru R180 LSD with a 3.9 gear ratio..
Anyone here running a 3.9 gearing with a turbocharged powerplant?! Im building up my L28 with the Z32 transmission and I wanted to hear some peoples feedback whether they like the 3.9 or if it's too high.
Thanks!!
I run 3.90 in the 260Z in my sig. below. It works perfect for the combo I was running but it is an auto and more drag than street. You might find that 1st gear with a stick would be pretty short. Also remember that the kind of power you will be putting down is a lot for an R180. If it was an open 2 pinion R180 I would say no way but if that is a 4 pinion setup it should work - at least for a while.
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I've had two different sets of triple Webbers on several different cars. I never had the chokes set up on any of them - even the daily driver 240 I used to drive. I just pump the pedal to get a couple of accelerator pump shots and turn the key. If it is cold sometimes I have to feather the throttle a few times just for the first few seconds of run time.
The only time it is a little hard to start is if it has been sitting for a few weeks and the float bowls are empty. Because I only run a mechanical fuel pump I have to let the starter turn over quite a few times to fill up the float bowls before I can pump the throttle to start.
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I still run the mechanical pump with the triple webber 45's on my 240Z. No problems at all. Will run mid 13's at the track all day long. I did run an electric pump a long time ago but all the adjustments were the same. I think the regulator is set at 3.5 psi. All other carb adjustments are by the book.
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Make sure you have a pilot bearing in the back of the crank. Most already do. The driveshaft is not the same length but it might work. I have used a 280zx turbo drive shaft in an earlier car (S30) but it is about 1/2" too long. In your case it should be 1/2" too short but may still work in a pinch as long as enough of the splines are engaged in the trans. You wouldn't want the to fall out on the road! Pole vaulting anyone?
As mentioned above you still need flywheel, clutch, throw out bearing/holder/fork, clutch master/slave/line, pedal, shifter and probably lots of misc items I have forgotten.
Good luck with the swap.
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drzed--------1974 260Z--------3N71B---------Turbo----------11.15@120.8----08/03/07
Big hopes for next year with the new turbo - 60's turbo technology can only get you so far.
Oh BTW 510SIX, even if your car doesn't count its still awesome!
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Oh by the way I just thought I'd add that I used to run the same top end on the earlier 280Z dished piston block and the power difference was huge. Now the engine pulls way harder, starts making power earlier and traps way better at the track. I don't remember what the old trap speed was but the absolute best time was 13.999 - I remember that as all I wanted to do was break into the 13's and it seemed like all the car would do was 14.0's. Anyway as you can see at the bottom it will now run 13.44@101.
My point is that a cam with 510/280 wants way more compression than the 9.0:1 that I had. With the 10.6:1 bottom end it idles better, runs better, starts better and pulls way better. BTW the new combo reads 190-195 on the compression guage.
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The 240Z in my sig has the following:
Stock bore and stroke flat top piston (late) L28
E31 head (unported but cleaned up) with larger 280Z valves
Colt cam - 510 lift 280 duration advertised
Nissan Motorsport? header
2.5" exhaust
45mm Webbers
recurved 280ZX distributor
10.6 to 1 compression
Engine runs very strong up to 7000 RPM. Good fuel economy (considering 45mm webbers and 4:38 gears).
The bottom end had over 200K KM on it and I still reused the old pistons. By using my weight and my trap speed at the track you get 190-195WHP. I love the power and the sound but if my choice was this or a turbo it would be a tough decision. The turbo power is VERY addictive. My 260Z traps 20MPH higher even with the auto and loose convertor.
As for fuel we get 94 at the pump here so I just manage to get by on this with 34-36 degrees of total timing depending on the weather.
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They are real cars. Now, I don't actually know this individual but I know someone who does and he said that most of the cars are rusty piles of junk and not worth anything.
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Just use either the bell housing off an auto (it's a separate piece on an auto) or the bell housing off an early A type 4 spd trans. (also separate). I've done this several times and it works great. You need the flywheel or flexplate for the starter to engage but that is it.
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I forgot to mention that the engine is very LOW compression. 7.25:1 static with a mild cam so you could almost turn it over by hand.
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I have been running a lawnmower battery from Walmart for a few years now with good results. It is for the 260Z in my sig which is mostly a drag car with limited street usage. Never let me down but I don't run a stereo and I've converted to a 280ZX internally regulated alternator. It does have to support my SDS system, an electric fan, and an electric fuel pump. The price is right too!
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Yes, that works well and you can use the QD push to lock fittings, makes connections a snap and they are re-usable. That is what is on semi-trucks these days. I always replace rubber hoses with pex whenever a have a hose break. Great stuff.
So you are using regular pex water pipe or the Pex-Al-Pex or a type of pex purchased at a HD truck supply? Also what does the "QD" stand for - I googled and couldn't find this type of fitting.
Thanks
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I'm building a "good size" new shop and I'm wondering what I should use as distribution lines for the shop air. I would like to use something flexible so I could run it through the walls - hard lines are out as the exterior wall cladding is already installed. I saw a product called Pex-Al-Pex on a website a while back but have never seen it in person and don't know anyone who has used it. Initially I was going to use Pex water pipe but my research showed that it may not be compatible with the petroleum found in shop air lines. It appears that Pex-Al-Pex is.
http://www.pexsupply.com/categories.asp?cID=389&brandid=
Anyone used anything else other than copper or iron pipe? If it matters my compressor is 7.5hp industrial model and the maximum run will be about 100'. Also, how do you size the lines? I was thinking of using 3/4" lines everywhere.
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Hi
I've known Mike for years but never bought anything from him - he bought parts from me. I always found him good to deal with. I ran into him this summer at the local car show. He was out in front of his mobile phone store. I think this is the one. I don't know if he works here all the time but I believe he does own it.
Budget Cellular
20362 Fraser Hwy
Langley, BC
Phone: 604-532-0440
Fax: 604-532-0441
Hope this helps.
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I've used all sorts of extractors with hit and miss success.
The best way I've found for removing a broken bolt or stud is to take a nut about the same size and weld it to the broken bolt through the hole while holding it up to the surface with an old pair of pliers. This works great on old rusty studs as it heats the stud and helps it to release from the base material. This works best with a mig welder but I have done it with a stick years ago before I had a mig. Try to make sure you are only rotating the nut and not putting any side forces on it as the connection between the nut and stud is not always perfect. It may take several tries if the stud is really stuck.
Good luck.
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Very nice!
Remember that's Canadian HP so you have to multiply by 1.2 eh
WTB: Maroon door panels 280ZX Coupe.80-83
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Are you still looking for these? I have a really nice pair for sale. PM me for details.