pparaska
-
Posts
5087 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by pparaska
-
-
Dude, that sucks it got hailed like that!
Glad the insurance co. is going to fix it. What company is that?
-
Well, one thing to consider is that Kevin at Tex Racing responded with a "no" when I asked if they used a bearing stabilizer plate.
I'd think either The Gear Shop or Modern Driveline would be fine for doing the build. Heck, I'd think even G-force transmissions would be fine.
-
I'm really confused now - I talked Kevin at Tex Racing. He says they source their T-5 Gear Sets from G-Force! And they are $1500 now, but is checking prices and getting back to me. He says they don't do very many of these (they're mostly NASCAR suppliers, hence, the do their own trans designs, the T-10, and Jerico). Update: O.k. the $1500 price is for the straight cut gear set.
The helicut gear set (input shaft, 1st thru 4th gear sets) is $950.
The helicut 0.80 overdrive gear set is $360.
New main shaft is $295
Labor is $240
other parts would be extra (bearings, synchros, etc.) not sure exactly how much.
Again, we're back to the only option being G-Force gear sets.
-
[update: I guess that Kevin at The Gear Box is confused. I called his supplier (Kevin at Tex Racing - see a few posts below this) and he said they get their gear sets from G-Force.]
Wow, I'm shifting gears again
Just got off the phone with Kevin at "The Gear Box" (see TimZ's post):
The Gear Box
26405 Northline Rd
Taylor, MI 48180
(734) 946-6088
Kevin uses Tex Racing gear sets, that he says are superior in finish and tolerance to the G-Force gear sets. He had numerous problems with the G-Force boxes binding up after building transmissions and running them a bit. The surface finish and gear tooth geometry, along with 5th gear spline sizing caused him problems. That, as well as the G-Force game of price increases and supply issues brought him to find a better gearset, and that is the Tex Racing Gearset.
I've decided that this is the way I want to go - Tex Gear set, and use The Gear Box to do the rebuild of my GM trans.
The gearsets are presently $1350. This includes the Input shaft, as well as all the gears, (but not the main shaft, I think?)
The GM box rebuild labor is about $195, and the additional parts (bearings, rear bearing retainer replacement, fork pads, keys, synchros, etc.) for a full rebuild usually go into another $400-450 or so. So us GM folks are probably going to be spending $2000 for a rebuilt T-5, if you have a GM WC T-5 case. Kevin said the older pre-93 GM WC T-5 cases are almost impossible to find anymore. Kevin said he bought the last 6 pre-94 GM bolt pattern cases from Tremec (not sure how many he has left), that go for $285. I didn't realize this but the 94+ GM T-5 used the same case bolt pattern and input shaft as the Ford versions. Those are easier to find used.
The Datsun stuff he has done several for besides Tim and Rick. He needs the Tail housing and shift cover from the Datsun T-5 trans to do the build. He says that the usual out the door price on the Datsun T-5 build is about $2550.
He uses the latest Tremec carbon synchros (1-4, 5th has always been brass), Timkin bearings, and an upgraded bearing support. The usual stuff you see used in a good T-5 build.
Guys, I don't think that a group buy is really available here, but if you want to try to do that give him a call. I don't think we have the numbers to do it justice. I think what's more important is that Kevin and his guys have a superior gear set choice, do good work (from what I hear), is easy to work with and knows how to do the Datsun T-5 build with the strong gear sets.
Kevin says he has these transmissions in 650+ hp drag, roadrace, and pull applications and they are holding up great.
The way I am going to progress, and the way I suggest others go is to just send your stuff/order to Kevin at The Gear Shop and have a good trans.
-
Thanks! I just rated this thread 5 stars - it has a good bit of info on the 280ZXT CV shaft adapter length, and how to get a 240-280Z behind-the-diff mounted anti-sway bar to work with them. Thanks again!
-
O.k. Current Count:
Chevy form factor: 4 serious (Mikelly, pparaska, jt1)
-- ( no_damn_240 PM'd me he's not interested any longer )
Ford form factor: 1 serious (Z-Dreamer)
Datsun form factor: 1 serious (ww),
-- ( maybe 1 more, if Jersey is still interested? )
-
No movement, past these posts. I suppose a Post in the Group Buy Forum that points to this thread would be a good idea? Not sure how to handle this as it isn't a typical Group Buy, where one person pulls the money from people and then makes the order.
Also, Bruce seemed to say that the number of 10 buyers wasn't hard and fast, he just seemed to want some of the minimum of 10 gear sets he has to order spoken for, if I caught his drift.
But before we move on this, I think that Kevin at The Gear Box (see TimZ's post in this thread) should be contacted to see what the deal is with them. If they are sourcing gearsets from the actual manufacturer and not G-Force, then we'd not have to deal with the lag that G-Force is putting on filling orders.
Mike, I'm not in real need of this trans, but would buy one. Since you have the most urgent need, how about contacting Kevin and see where to go from there? How's that for delegating responsibility?
-
So far, it looks like me, Mikelly, jt1, Z-Dreamer, are serious about a Chevy form factor version. ww seems interested in a Datsun input/output shaft version. no_damn_240 I think is interested in at Chevy version.
That's 4 serious GM versions, one maybe, and 1 Datsun version.
We may have enough to move forward. But I think we need to make some kind of an announcement in the Group Buy forum, although this isn't a typical group buy, as I think we want to get good faith commitments together, and with that Bruce at Modern Drivelines may be able to move forward and order gear sets.
-
Alright' date=' I couldn't resist this thread one any longer.
"Is it too much horspower to drive?" was asked the great Mark Donahue about driving Porshe 917 Can-Am cars with about 1200 Hp, and still considered one of the fastest race cars of all time. "No, When you can leave a black mark down the longest straight of the track, that's when you have enough horsepower."[/quote']
My new hero! Too much power at the moment? Just means take your freaking foot off the accelerator a bit - problem solved!
-
David Vizard did a really nice article recently on exhaust system theory and testing in the May 2005 Popular Hotrodding Magazine. "Exhaust Science Demystified" (byline: "The fact is most cars are leaving horsepower on the table. We show you how to get it all back.")
-
Great' date=' now I gotta see if I can get a copy of that magazine! How come you couldn't have mentioned this back in May?
How about you make up for it by breaking copywrite laws and scan and post the article! (Just Kidding)[/quote']
Sorry, I just saw this thread last night.
No, not interested in breaking copyright laws . Besides, David deserves the royalties on each copy of that article sold!The differance in in-pipe pressure versus atmospheric should allways be in-pipe > atmosphere, unless the motor is off and then the pressure would equalize. Right?Yes, while it's running. A typical gage shows positive pressure or negative pressure (vacuum) that is in relation to the ambient pressure around the gage. So just hooking the gage to the exhaust pipe shows the pressure difference to atmosphere. This is typically called gage pressure, versus absolute pressure which is gage pressure plus the atmospheric pressure.
-
Great thread!
SHO-Z really hit it I think - don't worry about the bends too much. Make sure the size transitions are slow (like Johnc's cone), the pipes are of adequate size to not have too much pressure change from atmosphere to in the pipe, etc., but the big issue is the wave tuning and scavenging.
David Vizard did a really nice article recently on exhaust system theory and testing in the May 2005 Popular Hotrodding Magazine. "Exhaust Science Demystified" (byline: "The fact is most cars are leaving horsepower on the table. We show you how to get it all back.")
He talks about how the (then) Cyclone Sonic Turbo muffler design he and an acoustics expert friend designed made more horsepower in a dual 2.25" system than all the other dual 2.5" systems they tested using other mufflers.
Also intersting is his discussion on building a no-loss exhaust system - that's right - an exhaust system that saps NO power compared to a correctly designed open header setup for racing.
He talks about the 5 cycles of a racing engine - the added one being the exhaust-driven induction event - what you have heard called the scavenging effect that pulls intake mixture into the cylinder during overlap.
He describes a comparison of induction pressures between the peak suction on the intake port due to the piston going down the bore (about 0.5 to 1 psi) and the partial vacuum that an exhaust scavenging event has on the intake port during overlap (about 4-5 psi).
David goes on to talk about primary header pipe diameters, saying a bit too small is better than a bit too big, and that the only real way to find out what the engine needs is to do dyno testing. However, he provides a nomogram showing the relationship between the primary pipe diameters that have been proven to work well versus exhaust port flow at peak lift, for street, hot street, and race Normally Aspirated engines. He adds that the primary pipe AREA must be increased by 6 to 7% for every 50hp worth of N20 injected., but that for street use, it's better to not do the increase as the engine is mostly in non-N20 use.
Primary length is also addressed. David always boohoos the "equal length" argument. In this article, he gives some good reasons - you may not know the optimal length, so if the pipes are all of equal, but incorrect length, that may be worse than having some variation in the lengths. He notes that an exhaust system can scavenge at or near maximum intensity over a 4000 rpm range. His reasoning is then that if one pipe is 1000 rpm different in its rpm range of scavenging from the rest, pipe length differences of as much as 9 inches different have little effect on performance.
Then he gets into an issue that came up in my mind recently when reading "Headers-by-Ed"'s header information. He's a big proponent of very equal length headers. As I was reading his theory, it seemed based on the assumption that the pulses were evenly spaced in time between the pipes. (He mostly does regular V8 headers). But as Vizard points out, the timing of the pulses on one bank of a two plane crank V8 are unevenly spaced (90, 180, 270, 180 degrees, etc.). Vizard likens this to the the collector on one bank of a two-plane crank V8 acting like it were on a 3 cylinder engine with different sized cylinders. He notes that the varied spacing makes the system less sensitive to primary length. He goes on to say that dyno tests on two-plane crank V8s show little sensitivity with primary lengths between 24 and 36".
Collectors (secondaries): Start with a ratio of collector to primary diameter of 1.75:1. As for collector length, performance is more sensitive to it than primary length, and collector diameter and length have more effect on performance than primary length. Basic rule: shorter, larger diameter collectors favor top end, longer, smaller diameter collectors favor bottom end. He also says that for an engine with peak hp from 6000-8500 rpm, the collector length of 10-20 inches is effective. Again, shorter for higher rpm band (4500-8500).
Mufflers: Other than noise reduction, get a high enough flowing muffler to handle the HP. Don't use a muffler that flows less than the correctly sized secondary piping. For each peak HP, have the total muffler flow be 2.2cfm. He gives a graph of percentage of maximum power retained with a muffler on versus cfm per open pipe horse power to show that at 1.5cfm/hp, you lose about 17% of your peak hp, 5% loss at 1.75cfm/hp, and 2% loss at 2.00cfm/hp. At 2.25cfm/hp and beyond, the loss is less than 1%! On the same graph is a curve for backpressure versus cfm per open pipe horsepower:
1.50cfm/hp gives 2.0psi backpressure
1.75cfm/hp gives 1.1psi
2.00cfm/hp gives 0.3psi
2.25cfm/hp gives 0.1psi
(sorry, Johnc, David Vizard uses the term backpressure - it's just the difference between the average pressure in the pipe versus atmospheric pressure).
David goes on to talk about pressure waves and mufflers, the flowmaster, glasspacks, etc. I won't go into that part...buy the magazine!
What is REALLY interesting is the "pressure wave termination box" (or resonator box). What this is is a large volume box (muffler, empty, etc.) that is at least 8 times the volume of one of the engines cylinders. In the V8 case, as large as the engine displacement! It's inlet pipe extends into the box, and the end of the pipe is the end of the collector that the open header would have for best performance. What this does is make the rest of the exhaust system virtually have no effect (pressure wave wise) on the headers. If you have little backpressure behind the resonator box (piping, muffflers, tailpipes, etc.) the engine will lose no power. Without this box, the rest of the exhaust just causes the collector to get REALLY long, as far as the engine/header combo is concerned.
He covers X and H pipes. Less noise and increased power is the result. Read the article!
This is a really great exhaust science article. I urge anyone interested in this stuff to get the mag! What I like about David's stuff is that he has the theoretical background to make most any hotrodder bow down, but then backs up all his theory with TEST data, from tests designed by someone who understands the scientific principle and knows how to keep from chasing your tail by not changing too many (seemingly unrelated) variables at once. His review in this article of magazine muffler tests is a great example of this insight.
I don't know if even now in early April that you'll find the magazine on the rack, but to get the May 2005 as a back issue, you can do this:
MAGAZINE BACK ISSUES
To order back issues, call McMullen Argus' back issues department at:
U.S. Customers (866) 601-5199
International Customers (714) 712-2130
For back-issue questions, including availability, please send your query, including the magazine name, month and issue, to: backissues-mailorder@primedia.com
Sheesh! I think my post count should be triple incremented for this one
-
1
-
-
I understand the desire to DIY it.
I think if you can get it down to around 1", it will work without binding. But if you can do it by creating a pocket for the companion flange bolting rectangle, that would help a good bit.
-
I'm about 99% sure that you are correct - you are binding the CV joint(s) and the issue is that the adapter is too thick, causing the tripod joint to bottom out in the reciever of the CV joints.
Any way you can make them thinner? Cut a pocket into the side shown where the compantion flange bolts to it?
Or just buck up for Ross's adapters, which are a proven solution.
-
When John Hunter Dailey (UK Z Car Club "Z club magazine"'s "American Correspondent") asked me for a one-liner quote about my car, I told him "Pushrods aren't so bad!". That was shortly after he took a few photos of my car at the 2003 Z Convention Track Day at New Hampshire International Speedway's road course.
Later in a phone interview with me, he asked me to elaborate on why I said that. (My Z, along with others at the Z convention was the subject of a photo/article spread by John in the Autumn 2004 Z Club Magazine - Thanks John!)
I said that it was really just an off the cuff comment I came up with in an environment where I was the only Z owner on the track with a pushrod engine. You have to realize that Z conventions are about Z's, not about HybridZ's with pushrod V8's, so the V8Z is kind of an opprobrium there. I went on to say that many of the younger crowd (that grew up riding in their parent's Honda's, etc.) think that pushrods=junk. I went on to talk about the LS1, etc., and the advantages of the pushrod design, especially if you have no limits on displacement (i.e., Japan's taxation for anything over 2 Liters), and therefore don't need to have high rpm to make horsepower.
I got this forwarded to me on another list and think it's a good discussion of the design trades in engines - OHV vs OHC. Notice the issue of engine size versus displacement - the OHV (pushrod) design generally allows for more displacement.
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3012/is_5_184/ai_n6055102
-
O.K. One more post on this.
What GWB's plan is trying to do, I believe without coming out and saying it is this:
SS is WELFARE for retired folks. We're moving away from it being an entitlement for everyone program to a welfare program. The way we can do that is this: Let people put away money for themselves and pay less SS taxes into the welfare SS system. Some is still needed from everyone, so we will still have you pay that 1.5 or 2%, but we want YOU to be able to invest the other 4% in a tax free way for YOUR retirement.
What he's not telling you is that he probably wants to end the "SS is an entitlement for every retired person" system, and make it truly a WELFARE system for retired people that NEED it. That'd be political death for anyone that lined up with him to back it, and he'd get NO help.
But I think it's a plausible way to ween EVERY retired person off the system and just pay the retired folds that NEED it.
With that message now clear that you shouldn't depend on THE GOVERNMENT to do your retirement savings for you, hopefully people that make more money than they really need will start putting it away in good investment accounts so that we won't have to pay them RETIREMENT WELFARE when they do retire.
Believe me, if things don't go down the toilet in the next 20 some years until I retire, I'll be in good shape to pay my own bills in retirement from my own investments, and I'll be working very hard to give the SS $$$ back to the SS administration or just give it to retired people who need it - I'm sure there are or will be charities set up to do that.
-
Guys, thanks for making the points I was too tired to make at the time
But let me be clear on why I think SS is screwed up: Social Security is WELFARE for the rich. If we can't agree on that point, then we'll just have to disagree and move on.
My opinion on SS: SS is welfare for old people who didn't have the ability to save enough for their retirement. My HUGE beef with SS is that there ought to be some kind of mechanism to keep people who have huge bankrolls at retirement from collecting on SS!!!! If it is WELFARE, then the rich retiree shouldn't be getting it!!!
The Feds NEVER SHOULD HAVE said this was a system everyone pays into AND EVERYONE IS ENTITLED TO DRAW ON. It's welfare for the retired that NEED it. That's what it was really developed for.
People like Mike's parents and many others are valid SS recipients. But someone that's retiring today with a huge bankroll shouldn't get a penny.
Sure, you paid into SS all your working life. BIG FREAKING DEAL. You also paid Medicare all your working life. You also paid taxes all your working life - which is where WELFARE CHECKS and FOODSTAMPs are paid from. Do you see my point? If we are going to have a socialist systems to take care of people who truly can't take care of themselves (which bothers me NONE) then lets manage the systems in a rational and fair way.
Not everyone (thank God) is in need of and therefore not entitled to WELFARE CHECKS. So riddle me this batman - WHY THE F*** should everyone be entitled to SS checks if they don't need the SS WELFARE CHECKS to get along in retirement!!!
I've never since I was 13 and started paying SS taxes thought I was going to see one penny from it. My dad sat me down and told me that I should just think of it as another welfare tax that I'll probably never need, if I can save enough for retirement on my own. So that's what I've been doing since I was able to when I got my first real job in my career - socking away as much as I can without going over the $13000 (this past year) maximum before you start paying taxes on it GOING IN.
And you know what - it really wouldn't bother me one bit that I've paid (let me pull out my SS statement that I got a few weeks ago) $53000+ in SS taxes, and $12000+ in Medicare - IF it was being used as a welfare payment to those who are retired and actually NEED THE MONEY.
What pisses me off is that that SS tax money is going into the pockets of rich people who are now retired.
-
I think Kim Blough just found his poster boy!!!!
-
Good info!!! Years ago when I was doing my swap, all I had or could find was the 2.00" pilot flange. I ended up having a driveshaft flange made from a slip yoke and a piece of 3/8" thick steel plate.
We know the NEAPCO part number 2-2-899-1 is a functional replacement of the DAT-110 part for the 2.25" piloted flanges. It's nice to know this so you can just source it locally. It'd be nice to know what part number works for the 2.00" pilot flange (like the DAT-110-2.0)
-
I feel like Johnc starting a thread like this. But the SS thing has been in the media so much lately, and now I find this article in the liberal washington post that doesn't sound so liberal at all. I resonate with what the author writes so much I feel like I wrote it and he stole it!
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A61696-2005Mar23.html
We are a nation of closet welfare junkies, which helps explain why we can't have an honest debate about Social Security. Social Security and Medicare are our biggest welfare programs, but because Americans regard "welfare" as shameful, we've found other labels for them. We call them "social insurance" or "entitlements." Anything but welfare. Democrats and Republicans alike embrace the deception. No one wants to upset older voters. Well, if you can't call something by its real name, you can't discuss it honestly.In other words, call the cards as you see them. Social Security is a WELFARE SYSTEM.
I've been saying this for years. What got me started on having an opinion on this topic was something I saw on TV probably 10 or 15 years ago. A bunch of rich (many of them with $1M in the bank) retired folks were being interviewed and they were screaming about how they were ENTITLED to every penny of their SS benefits, since they'd paid into the SYSTEM for years. They felt it was their ENTITLEMENT to have "their money" back. I wanted to jump through the tube and punch the old farts.
I guess that maybe I should retire early and go down to the welfare office to collect that WELFARE that since I've paid my taxes since I was 13 am clearly ENTITLED TO. Same freaking thing, if you ask me.
We aren't ENTITLED to any kind of handouts, if you ask me.
Naturally, the elderly don't see themselves as freeloaders. They think they've "earned" their Social Security benefits by paying payroll taxes. As Schieber and Shoven note, the term "social insurance" dates to Bismarck in 19th-century Germany. But applying it to Social Security involved much political license. In normal usage, insurance suggests protection against something you don't expect to happen -- a house fire, a car accident. By contrast, most people expect to grow old. Using the "terminology of insurance . . . [was intended] to mask the huge welfare payments being made," they write. People falsely believe they're "only getting what they have paid for." That is even less true of Medicare. In 2006 the Congressional Budget Office expects Medicare to cost $383 billion. Medicare premiums (paid by recipients) pay 12 percent; payroll taxes, 49 percent; general taxes and borrowing provide the rest.This country is going down the tubes - IMO, one of the major reasons are all the ENTITLEMENT programs - oh sorry to be so PC - I mean WELFARE programs and the mindset that Americans have by and large that they are all ENTITLED to these 4 types of WELFARE - Social Security, Medicaid, Medicare, and good old WELFARE checks.
Next we'll offer ENTITLEMENTS to illegal aliens as one of their RIGHTS for jumping the border into our country.
-
The old Z has such great styling, it will turn heads of every kind of person with a heartbeat. The Sentra and the 350Z mentioned above don't get that attention.
I get muscle car people, honda people, Miata people, old people in Mercedes, you name it stopping to talk about my Z and they always gush over the looks. It's very hard to beat the looks of the S30 body.
Keep it! There's more to cars than what they'll do in the quarter mile or at the track. Plus, the Z will be cheper to work on and easier to work on.
Oh, I can't agree more about it having the CORRECT wheels being driven for a sports car (although AWD is fun too!).
-
FWIW, I'd be all ears if you gave me some of that inside info.
Sorry, I'd be fined, imprisoned, shunned, and lose my job and the chance of getting others in my field.
Sorry I can't accomodate you As for calling GWB a bastard- that was meant to be funny, not serious
Oops, I guess that smilie was too far away for me to understand you were joking. I'm a bit comedy challenged during these kinds of debates - apologies.
-
Pete' date='
I went and looked in the AFCO catalog. There are two different 153 tooth only bellhousings, and one looks just like that Tilton piece, except it is black and made by Hays.
For some reason it says that it fits 58-81 engines...why not later? Probably will.
Take a closer look at those two bellhousings:
Hays/Lakewood one you linked to:
...and the Sonic/Tilton one. Look at the picture at the bottom of the 1st page of the pdf:
http://www.tiltonracing.com/pdfs/stellhousing.pdf
I think the Sonic/Tilton one will give you a lot more ground clearance and room for long tube headers/exhaust.
-
crazy, I'm done debating you on this. By my count, before I gave up, you just rebutted everything I said with your own opinions, basing it on things you believe from what you've read from a few sources from what I can tell, but won't consider that some of us with connections and security clearances that can see the intell might have a different story, for one matter.
Believe what you want, I can see you'll take some media response or Hans Blix complicit word for things before looking any deeper, on just that one point.
Read this, if you want some CORRECT info on dual use technology in Iraq.http://www.cia.gov/cia/reports/iraq_wmd_2004/chap5.html#sect0
On the rest of it, we'll just have to disagree.
What I'd love to see happen in an alternate universe where time travel exists is take you and put you in pre 2003 Iraq, put a turban on your head and make you a Shiite or Kurd. I wonder what song you'd be singing then about we should have waited for MORE diplomacy with Saddam, or that 150,000 soldiers were a waste.
Calling GWB names (BASTARD) does seriously take away from your argument - again, you can't seem to hide your emotions even when you're trying to.
I've got better to do things than continue this any longer.
I'm really confused now - I talked Kevin at Tex Racing. He says they source their T-5 Gear Sets from G-Force! And they are $1500 now, but is checking prices and getting back to me. He says they don't do very many of these (they're mostly NASCAR suppliers, hence, the do their own trans designs, the T-10, and Jerico). 
No, not interested in breaking copyright laws 
. Besides, David deserves the royalties on each copy of that article sold!
Subframe conectors, what kind of steel?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Yes, 0.095-ish in the engine frame rails. 0.083-ish in the subframe connectors. I'd not go below that and do the .120"