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I just stumpled onto the The Falconer V-12. The specs are... 800 HP 780 ft-lb Torque 90 degree V-12 600 cid 1 Motec ECU Runs on pump gas Low weight, 500 lbs Accepts Chevy bell housing and front mounts http://www.falconerengines.com/prod04.htm I like the one on the bottom with the satin finish.

I am thinking of going to what I like to call the dark side or going to a chevy motor. The plans are for a Ford probobly something about growing up and watching endless boring lines of 350 powered camaros at the drag stip always made chevy stuff not very apealing to me even if it is a good motor:) Any way I was at the wrecking yard today and found a police car with an LS1 in it. It was a repo the came without keys so they dont know anything about it but the car looks to be in OK shape. Any way they said they will sell the motor for $500 with all the accesories and wiring etc or the entire car for $1000. I think the car was a caprice with an automatic transmission. Any way not keeping up with chevy stuff I was curios what the stock HP rating was for this motor. Not sure of the exact year but I believe early 90s probobly. Thanks in advance for any help

Well I vote for the V8 for the same reason I am going to go to one. More HP potential and you can run 450hp and not be running the motor as hard as a with 450hp from the L28. Plus you have to love the sound of the v8:)

Well I dont have the exact problem you do but close. I have a 260z with a good L28, webbers, 3.90 etc so not the turbo and 350RWHP you do but nothing wrong with it. I even have a complete turbo car if want it. But any way I have decided to drive it like it is fix the few small things with the motor and build a V8 and collect all the parts I need. If you have the cash to fix your z like it is and buy the v8 to build and get it ready for later I would do that. Also how much is your turbo z motor worth now and how much is it worth after you fix it?

Does it matter if its a 2+2 or not? On the thread you pointed me to one of the people seemed to be saying the 2+2 was CV joints but I thought those were only on the turbo zx?

Hi I have an early 260z that the previos owner put an 3.90 R200 in I am not sure what it came out off. Any way if I remember correctly he said he rebuilt it but did not shim it correctly so it whines terribly. Any way I have found several early 80s 280zx manual transmission Zs with 3.90s for about $75. Will that be a direct swap or should I try and figure out how to get the diff in the car fixed? He said he had been running it for years without being shimmed correctly so I think that could not be good for it. But I dont want to get a 3.90 out of a zx and then find out it will not work and I am out $75. Thanks very much in advance.

Hi I happened to find a 280zx turbo cheap with the T5 and I was wondering if there is a way to make the clutch setup on this version of the T5 work on the mustang version of the T5?

Well I am still watching to see whats going to happen with the Manta. He is trying to get 4200 but no takers yet. I check on it every few days. I will talk to him again in a day or two and see whats the best offer he has had. Dave Houck's Manta Mirage looks interesting with all the mods he has done.

Oh and no slowflakes:)

I had time just to glance at it. I think its the 5 speed and I think all of the drive train is there but no interior or windows.

Hi I found a 280zx turbo that someone is selling. Its just a parts car really but the motor, transmission is all there. I am mainly buying it for the turbo pieces but what other parts would be good to get off of the car before I have it crushed? I am thinking they had R200s with 3.90 grears but I am not sure. Oh I am getting the parts for my 260z or to sell or trade

The 260 is going to be a road car mainly but maybe some autocross later. Not my main car but just a toy really. Hmm well the more I think about it. The more it seems to me that I can buy one that is finished for about what I would have in it when its done if my time is worth anything at all. I think I will watch it and see if the guy gets desperate to sell and if he sells it I will try and keep up with it for when the other guy gets sick of it:)

Thanks for the feed back guys. I am thinking go for the trade also as I will probobly not get another chance at one unless I buy one that is finished for around 15k. The Manta needs taken completly apart and redone but I think I could get my money out of it when I am done. Then again I am thinking maybe finish the Z and then sell it use that money tward a finished Manta. The Manta uses a Corvair transaxel thats fliped and a kelmart adapter to the 350. He has all the parts exept the motor. But since he had a 383 stroker in it I dont think the transaxel will end up being any good. Also since its a tube frame its easy to change mounts etc if you want to use an Audio 5000 or ZF transaxel etc.

Hi I have an early 260z with an l28, triple webbers, springs, swaybars etc that is 75% done. I am thinking of trading it for a Manta Mirage. The Manta Mirage is a copy of a M8 Cam Am car. It came with a 350 chevy and weight was about 1800. Some pictures of what they look like..... http://www.mantacars.com/images/yu14.jpg'>http://www.mantacars.com/images/yu14.jpg http://www.mantacars.com/images/yu01.jpg'>http://www.mantacars.com/images/yu01.jpg http://www.mantacars.com Any way if they are fixed up they sale for about 15k-30k depending on how much you do to them. I think only about 300 or so were made. The example I am looking at is missing the motor and needs lots of tender loving car to get it right again. Any way what do you guys think?

I am interested but would like to see a list of parts included, photos etc.

Well I have my new Z finaly. I had been looking for one for a while and made a deal for this one http://www.geocities.com/ellencardona@sbcglobal.net/Pictures/Z/ . I traded a camera and some cash for it. It was a nice car at one time but needs a little love to get it back to good a really nice condition. But he has already done a lot to it. It has the triple webbers, header, almost all bushings, exhoust, swaybars (geting the front one fixed and the back one is the good one that mounts to the dif housing and not the body. Also has the alternator upgrade, electric fans, 3.83 gears I believe, short shifter, centerforce clutch and preasure plate, and came with a kevlar racing seet and 5 point harnes. Runs good and idles good. But it does need a new interior but I just happen to have one:) Its geared to low for using the 4spead I had to drive about 60 the 70 miles home at 3500RPM. So I am going to get the good fivespeed out of one of my parts cars and maybe trade out the dif but not sure. Needs a wheel barring very badly. Need to service the air. Fix a couple of spots on the body, small hole in passangers floor. Probobly change heads he said it has the older model head with the flat top pistons and it deisels a little when you kill it. Needs a brake booster. I also need to change to the early z style bumpers that fit close to the body and go back to normal crome not the blacked out bumbers and crome. Probobly a lot more but thats enought to think about for now.

Thanks again for the great help on what to look for on this car.

Thanks good to hear about not much bad to look for. Make me feel even better about this car:)

Hi I have made a deal for a car pending final inspection. Its a 260z that the owner used to drive and autocross. I am wondering what to check for the could be broken from autocrossing. I know the front swaybar mount needs fixed but that seems to be very common. The car has an L28 with triple webbers and header, performance springs, swaybars, bushings etc. It also still has the air and heater hooked up and the inside is not to bad but I have all the pieces to make it look perfect I think. Any way excited to get the car but want to make sure to know what damage to look for besides rust

Thanks for the help. Its been a long time since I did body work. Well now I am less worried about the car and will see about getting it:)

Hello how would you go about fixing a top that is a little wavy. It had been bondoed in the past and now has a crack. Would fiber reinforced bondo on top with maybe even a couple of strips of steel underneath work? Whats the best way to fix this?

Well I already told the guy I was going to buy it so if he comes up with the title like he says he is going to do then it will be mine. I also found a 260z with an L28 Triples, performance springs, front swaybar (but mount needs fixed), ok paint (red). Had rust on the hatch and a small hole in the passangers floor that has been but out but not repaird. Frame rails are perfect and he has driven the car since 1985. The only thing I am worried about is the top was just a little wavy like some are and it was bondoed and cracked. But I am thinking there has to be some way to repair it. Maybe with fiber reinforced bondo and some kind of flat sprint steel support from underneath. Any way I can trade camera for this car I think and have it at an ok price. What should this car be worth anyway?

Hi I looked at a 240z today. Its got a fuel injected L28 but without the wiring finished. Automatic transmission, new interior (2 really), new weather striping etc and a bunch of extra parts for the inside. Any way the framerails at the front where the curve up are perfect but on the passangers side the floor is rusty in the center and about 18" or so of the framerail in the same area. The other side is perfect. Also the querterpanels behind each door. But thats about it. The hatch and the part of on the back around it is fine. The spare tire wheel well looked fine. A little rust on the battery tray but thats about it. On the outside its primired with just a little surface rust and no bondo I could find. They said its a 1970 but the VIN was HS30 93425 so I would think its probobly like a 1972. The plate on the door was primired over so I could not read it and they did not have the title on hand so I could not double check. Any way I think with the rust it has the $300 they said they would take for it is not to bad. Can any one give me any feedback on this? Also can you buy replacement metal for the parts that are rusted. I am pretty sure you can but just got home and have not had time to do a search. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

I dont know just off hand but you might try at http://forums.stangnet.com/ or some of the many Ford performance sites.

Do you mind taking measurements and photos of your mount:)