Konish

David, No, my buddy got them out of a junk yard for me and shipped them here. I will say that I called the KIA dealer in Boulder, CO (near my brother just in case a pick-up was necessary) and they were like $75 per door new. I will for sure buy a new set and replace these when I refurb the interior. Door closure is awesome...no more slamming. Truly, it's like closing the door on a new car. I'll test the sealing capability tomorrow...planning a trip through the drive-through car wash to simulate a nice down-pour. Also, I'm sorry about taking so long to head over to the Nissan dealer to ask about the mirrors (I'm interested in the black ones myself). I've been leaving work late for the last month and every time I get there, the parts side is closed. I'm going to ask my wife to call them tomorrow instead of driving over...I'll let you know. R/ D

Fellas, This stuff fits AWESOME. The strips have the integrated welting (it's got kind of a cool cross-hatched texture on it) with the seal itself and you can pinch the channel together to make it fit tighter. I was going to add some silicone to the channel for a tighter fit, but it's on there pretty good now (it takes a firm tug to pull it off the channel). Anyway, as mentioned the corner is radiused instead of a tight 90* corner but it still seems to seal in that area pretty good. Also, when trimming to fit make sure you "scrunch" the piece back onto itself as it accordions a bit...you'll see what I mean if you try this. Finally, just for clarification. There is no right and left side. You can simply turn the part around to make the seal side fit whichever door you like. I switched the pax side door to the driver's side and basically just had to orient it seal side out. In the last pic you can see the seam I had to make. Again, cut it with more overlap than you think because the stuff will push back on itself. If you cut it to just fit, it'll come up way short. Pics, enjoy (courtesy of crappy iphone cam):

Hate to resurrect an old thread, but I've been dealing with some wonky issues with my SUs. In my research I've found conflicting info on whether or not the engine runs lean or rich under sudden acceleration with no oil in the dashpot. My experience falls directly in line with the excerpt you see below lifted from this site: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/damper.html With empty dashpots, WOT or near WOT my car ran like a bat out of hell and was SUPER responsive to throttle input but it rattled (detonated) like crazy. After I screwed with the floats and filled the dashpots with 20W, the rattle went away immediately, but the throttle just felt soft...like it was running really rich. It just did not hit as hard as I would expect from a leaner mix. Intuitively, I think I buy the "lean condition on throttle" theory more than the one above suggesting "rich condition on throttle" without oil in the dashpots (the high vacuum in the dashpot lifting the piston higher but relatively low pressure in the bridge to draw the requisite fuel causing a lena condition) Thoughts? R/ D Advanced Techniques: Damper oil can be used to adjust or tune the lifting of the pistons to suit a modified engine. Since I installed my Air/Fuel gauge, I have been able to see that the ATF fluid I'd been using was far too light a weight oil for my application. For example, under cruise conditions I was getting a fairly rich reading on the air/fuel gauge. Any increase in throttle gave me a lean condition immediately. This was because the oil in the dampers was not heavy enough to keep the piston from opening rapidly. The sudden increase in vacuum from the motor draws up the SU piston (which allows more air into the motor). With a bigger hole from which to draw air through, vacuum over the jet bridge does not rise as quickly to pull more fuel into the stream (despite more air getting into the engine = lean air/fuel ratio). The low vacuum doesn't allow enough fuel to be sucked from the jet to compliment the increased air flow. 3/15/99 I've purchased some 15wt motorcycle shock oil. Replacing the ATF with the 15wt oil has done wonders for the air/fuel readings. Now even with heavy throttle application the fuel mixture does not go lean. Obviously the heavier oil is not allowing the piston to rise as fast as it was before. The seat-of-the-pants differences are not dramatic, but at speed (say, on the freeway, and at higher revs) you can feel a little more urgency out of the car. Whatever the other benefits, the mixture is not going off-the-gauge lean as it was before, and this is good for my peace of mind. Without the air/fuel gauge, however, I wouldn't have known I had a problem as it drives about the same. 4/27/99 The 20wt oil (again, using a bottle of motorcycle shock oil) has gone into the SUs. I haven't noticed much change at all. What change I have noticed has come courtesy of the air/fuel gauge. I was getting a bit of a lean-mix spike with throttle application on the freeway. This has lessened, but is actually still there to some extent (it occurs more often before the motor has fully come up to temp). Once the motor has come up to temp (long after the temp gauge stabilizes), the 20wt oil seems better suited to prevent the lean condition mentioned above. However, with summer coming, I may have to step it up again. We'll see. 11/21/99 Summer came and went. As it is November, and getting slightly chilly 2 out of 7 days here in SoCal, I went back to the 15WT oil. However, on my drive to the SoCal UFO swap meet during the weekend I noticed my air/fuel gauge going lean under acceleration/load. This was most noticable as I went up a few grades on my way. It wasn't terribly warm that morning, so it would seem that 15WT is too light for a SoCal car (at least with my motor). Back to 20WT, where I'll stay. 6/15/01 I've gotten into the routine of going with 15wt oil in the SoCal "winter" months, and 20wt oil in the summer months. When I change my coolant thermostat from a 195' winter to the 160' summer, I also change damper oils. In my climate that's all that's needed to be messed with.

Looking for used (not abused) 16X7 or 8s panasports...

Appreciate the concern...it was one of the first things I checked after I installed the piece. I've had a stuck throttle on an old 911SC that I used to have and managed to get the motor shut off and the clutch pulled in before things went out of hand...'course I almost dislocated my shoulder reaching for the ignition key...

I looked for the receipt and could not find it, and the trash guy took the scraps away this morning. The rug was down on the first floor where they have all the area rugs. It had the tan center and 2 dark-brown strips flanking it along it's length. It also has a rubbery, non-slip material on the bottom-side I looked for all black but could not find it in any other color at all. I don't think you can miss it though, it was the only one of it's size for like $25.00 (might be more or less in the US). If I were back in the States, I would go to a carpet store (outdoor carpeting) or marine supply house and ask to see what scraps they had and go from there. R/ Dustin

Fellas, I'm doing a very slow preservation on my car and needed something to cover my tunnel as I decide what I ultimately want to do with the interior. I really didn't want to spend the money on the fabricated pieces only to decide later that I want to go a different direction, or even more likely they get screwed up while I'm doing something else to the car. Anyway, while we were at Ikea today, I picked up a large, $25 area rug with a small loop pile (tan/brown...I guess) and used the original vinyl as a pattern. I had to make some minor cuts and adjustments, but I think it turned out pretty well. I don't think I'm going to glue it down so I can quickly remove it. For the most part it lays pretty tightly against the tunnel by itself, so I think it'll work. Just a small ghetto project, but it was fun and I like how it looks and insulates. R/ Dustin

Clecos are spring loaded. You use a tool that will compress the head of the cleco which will cause the tips to extend out of the bottom of the cleco. You insert the tip through the hole and release the tension on the tool. As the tips try to withdraw back into the body of the cleco they expand thus trapping the pieces together under some pretty strong spring tension. I help my buddy with his airplane (long range tanks and some misc aero pieces) we used LOTS and LOTS of clecos to hold the pieces in place for riveting...very cool tool. When building a plane, the fuselage looks like a porcupine

Fellas, Anyone have pics of the original shifter hole in a 4 speed 240z tunnel? I'm at an impass with what I want to do next. I want to keep the original 4 speed console, but my tunnel was "modified" for a 5 speed conversion. I have toyed with the idea of modifying a shifter by cutting the shaft off the pivot point, flip it upside down and re-weld it to the very back of the pivot point (90* aft of the original location). I would then heat the "s" bend to orient the stick toward the exit hole. I'm not sure though that it'll be long enough to do that *and* have it exit through the hole. Or...I could use a '72 console which I'm guessing will require the fuse box to be relocated (?) Other than losing the '71 console look, it should be pretty easy. Having said all that I would love suggestions, pics etc... R/ Dustin

Fellas, Not to turn this into a POR 15 argument, but the two differing comments are exactly why I decided to not use POR. There were plenty of unprepared, dirty edges along the bare metal that I'm convinced it would have at least started to peel along the edge to finally migrate out into the main panels. To be clear, I'm not necessarily looking for opinions on what product to use if I decide to start all over (because if that's the case I'm going to use zero rust and rust prep)...I'm just wondering if I *should* be worried at all. I certainly don't want to make work for myself if I can get by with it until I have the time and location to restore this thing properlyrty. More to the point I was looking for real-world similar experiences that could help me focus on any possible issues etc. I guess I'm just going to monitor closely and make a decision then. R/ Dustin

Fellas, LONG story. Let me preface by saying that I'm working in a pretty austere environment. Parking lot, gets dark by 5:00 pm, temps from 50-40s and rain off and on during this time of year. Also, I'm in Japan. Now, that isn't an issue except that many products available in the US are 1) not available here, 2) ungodly expensive ($13 for a regular can of spray paint) or 3) cannot be shipped here via USPS. With some fore-thought and/or willingness ot pay a bit more for some stuff, most of these issues can be resolved. Here's my woe of half-assery..guilty as charged. Having discovered this (the car does need weather stripping, which is what contributed to the rust): and this: I ended up pulling out my seats, console and eventually the tunnel upholstery and factory sound deadening material...form here on out referred to as tar paper. Now the intent was just to take care of the bit you see under the pax side seat, but I got curious...and put my putty knife under the pax side foot well tar paper and it popped right up. Because that crap is overlapped in about 2-3 places along the tunnel and floor, I noticed the tunnel tar paper also pulled away extremely easy. My thought was that it was probably pushed away from the metal by rust. Essentially I was right because there was trace rust on everything but I think mostly the glue dried up and got brittle. This seemingly innocent discovery set off a chain of events I don't think I was totally prepared for, thus the half-assery that ensued. Here's what a bag of almost 40 year old sound deadening looks like Anyway, out came the scouring tools and chemicals (phosphoric acid)...with no real end-state other than to coat the floor with *something* I proceeded to do this: and this: The green on the driver seat floorboard was a previous attempt in removing a small amount of scale rust...I knew better than to look under the seats...argh! After getting to this stage, I went out and bought Krylon Rust Tough Prime Galvanizing Primer and Rust Tough Enamel http://www.krylon.com/products/rust_tough_prime_galvanizing_primer/ http://www.krylon.com/products/rust_tough_rust_preventative_enamel/ and the PO was kind enough to give me a small can of POR 15. Some more info. After the initial scouring, I did a phos acid wash on the metal...and it worked as advertised. It turned the embedded rust black and left a dull whitish film. But it also brought out, sticky stains in the metal where the glue was left, so I had wire brush the entire surface AGAIN down to bare metal. Once that was done, I decided (and here is where I could kick myself) to do a fresh water wash-down to get rid of any remaining acid and clean all the scouring tool crap and trash out of the car. About 2 minutes after that I got flash rust ALL OVER the floors and tunnel. No pics, sorry. It was so slight that it could only be brought up with a paper towel and brake cleaner. I had to act, but before I committed to anything, I did some research. POR 15 seemed pretty picky about prep, and since I was afraid it would peel I decided to take the primer/enamel route. So on with a coat of primer and overnight to dry. Here is the second reason I could kick myself. Forecast called for 0 chance of rain so I left the windows down about an inch on both windows..and water got on top of the primer. About a cup in the pax side and an ounce in the driver foot well. This next part scares me a bit. On the pax side where the standing water was, there was rust on top of the primer. The rust looked like a few small grains of rusty sand were randomly scattered...not much though. Thing is, the rust came up with a fingernail...like it was something that that got caught on top of the primer and rusted. I sanded (not as thoroughly as I would have liked) the rusty stains down and re-primered. After all that, I shot it with some of the Krylon enamel and it stuck very well to the primer. Results: So, finally, here are my questions. 1. Did I just cause a bigger problem down the road by shooting the primer over the flash rust? The Krylon website says the galvanizing primer can be shot over rust (not scaly rust, though) which is why I thought it'd be okay. However I'm not so sure with the rust I found on top of the primer after the water intrusion. In other words, is rust going to rage unchecked under a fresh coat of primer and enamel? I'm guessing that since it's encapsulated of a kind, it *should* be okay(?) 2. If so, will it manifest itself by bubbling and peeling in the paint quick enough that I can get to it before it does any huge damage? 3. Should I just go ahead and order some zero rust and rust prep and just start over by stripping the entire cockpit and try again? I really only need a year (maybe up to three) before I can blow this thing apart and really restore it and I would *hate* to have it down again (due to time and circumstances) to take care of the problem but will if this is a horror story in the making (ooops, too late)

Max, That link was awesome! Really illustrated the differences in the shifters...something that had me a bit puzzled. I've got a line on an original 4 speed shifter from a forum member and I think I'll just try the "Help" brand bushings as an instant upgrade to the plastic pieces. Thanks everyone for the help...I'm new to Z's (aside from a few friends that had 'em over the years) and after a bunch of years with older 911s, the learning curve is steep but interesting (plus parts are *way* cheaper). R/ Dustin

1. The PO cut the 4 speed console forward cross piece when he converted to a 5 speed trans, so I'm looking for a nice, unbroken center console from a 5 speed 240 or 260 (being new, I'm not sure exactly what I need, as long as it it works without mods with a 5 speed). If it's faded, that's fine just would like it all in one piece. 2. The cast metal triangular shaped striker plate (the one that mounts on the door) for the driver's side door. Thanks, Dustin

Scott, Sent you a PM letting you know I'd be interested...PM me back when you can and we'll work out the details. Thanks! R/ Dustin

Yeah, I have a feeling there is probably a left and right seal as well, but kinda hard to argue with the parts guy 1/2 'round the world. KIA is not sold in Japan...wel, you can pretty much say that aout any Korean car in Japan, so I'm not sure how I'm going to proceed. If anyone is looking to double their money on a junk yard find of some nice Sportage weather seals, please PM me. It rained here hard all day yesterday and my passenger side (side with the intact weather stripping) was like a kiddie pool. I sealed the drivers side (tore the seal out) with press n' seal and it kept all the rain out R D

Thanks fellas. David, Actually, the intent was to start with another shifter that will fit the trans as the bushing for the pivot pin is pretty sloppy (I guess I could always order a new bushing). You know, I have had *zero* luck in the junkyards here in Japan. Either they really don't like Americans, they have the same crappy universal attitude that most salvage yards have or maybe a bit of both. I'm going on salvage safari starting on Monday. If nothing else, I'll bring the yard guys a case of Bud long necks and see if I can't break the ice.... R/ D

For the guys that used the KIA Sportage weather stripping...were the driver's and passenger's side pieces the same? I called a KIA dealer about OEM new parts and they gave me one part # for both right and left: 0K018-59760B Can anyone confirm this? I only ask because I Googled it and the number above came back as: Part Description: D00R WTHSTP LHFrom Partspool.com. Obviously, I'm inclined to believe the dealer, but it isn't like I've been screwed by the OEM parts guys before and being in Japan, I would *hate* to have to return that part all the way back to CONUS...

Would anyone be able to tell me what year / model trans this shifter came out of? I just bought a '72 240z and it has a 5 speed with a cut down shifter. The PO tried to JB Weld a shift knob on the shifter, but it did not hold, so I'm trying to source another, cut it to length and re-weld the threaded portion back onto the shaft. Problem is that I have *no* idea what kind of shifter I have. As you can see, it has an oblong plastic bushing (that is spring loaded inside the pivot housing) for the pivot pin and a plastic bushing on the ball end of the shifter. Any help? Oh, and here is the car...crappy iphone pic, but it's all I have for now... R/ D

Howdy...first post here and several searches were not too fruitful, so I here goes... I just bought a very nice 240z (Built AUG '71) here in Japan (US model that I bought from an Active Duty guy here in Yokosuka). Promise...I'll post pics later. Anyway, the deal came with a set of triple Weber DCOE 40s. However, the included Mikuni manifold interferes with the back of the carbs keeping them from mounting flush (especially the throttle shaft towers). I took some measurements and with the long studs cluing me in a bit, they seem like they were mounted to the manifold with a 1/2" spacer (none in the box, though). One of my searches here yielded someone selling 1/2" phenolic spacers for Mikuni/Weber DCOE carbs so obviously it's not unique in the universe. My questions is this: Other than just making the carbs fit the manifold, heat isolation and perhaps a bit of velocity in the venturi, any pros/cons in using a spacer setup vice a direct bolt-up manifold like a Cannon etc...? Truthfully, I'd like not to drop $ on a manifold if it isn't going to matter on anything but a dyno. If the street feel is similar enough, then it's okay by me if I leave a few horses on the table. Thanks! R/ D