Chemicalblue
-
Posts
297 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Chemicalblue
-
-
I have one that is in excellent shape, very smooth, pm me if your interested.
I'm in Dallas TX
-
I have a couple for sale, one with an external wg and turbo
-
I've got 2 for sale in the parts section
-
I have one for sale the parts forum
-
I'd go with a Haltech, it works well, easy to install, very well supported and documented on the l28. It cost a bit more than ms but you get what you pay for.
-
So what are the rules for warning other buyers about this person? I was sold an engine that was supposed to be a stroker L28et and once I got it home fount it to be nothing but a regular turbo engine and filled with metal bits. The work was supposedly done by a machine shop and professional engine builder, there is no way any professional ever touched this thing.
-
I have one for sale with a metal headgasket
-
Motul, all test prove its one of the best oils out there. Amsoil would be a close second. 85% of all professional race teams use Motul, from our test its worth every penny. $60 for 5qt jug is really not to bad considering we don't see it breaking down until 5-7k mi. I change my personal turbo car every 5k, and on our NA cars we usually change it every 10-12k mi.
-
Alamo Autosports
-
Does that include the ECU?
-
You know, Big-Phil comes to mind, because his friend Chris (who I believe is a member here) owns a blue S30 with a turbo L motor. At one point Chris made 402hp at 17psi while Phil made 342 at 25psi. Phil seemed to run into problem after problem. Phil, as much as I love him, was kind of cheap about certain things. In the end he probably spent as much on his L motor as Chris did, but never saw as much power (from what I recall...). How many turbos did Phil run? He ran TWO different standalones (MS then later haltech). He ended up having to swap/rebuild his bottom end, yada yada yada.
I personally attribute many of Phil's problems he had along the way to his Maximum Boost mindset. He loved power, and instead of planning out a build, he'd turn up the boost until he hit a limitation. Fix that limitation, and then ramp it back up.
Tony knows a bit of what I plan, and for my dream L build, that might actually become a reality in the not SO distant future, I'll be putting MOST of my investment into the head, then followed by the fuel system, then followed by other odds and ends. The reality is that I've seen time and time again, THOSE are the places that success comes from. Get the head to flow (which includes induction and exhaust, as a SYSTEM!), and then make sure your fuel system is up to snuff to tackle the challenge at hand. The rest is icing on the cake.
I'm sorry to hear you've had issue with SDS. I also understand that it's frustrating to not be able to find someone to help you tune it. It's a rather unfortunate reality, but too many of us buy something we think we can handle ourselves, just to find out we cant', and are then stuck at the mercy of those in the know of that product. The truth is that most people should probably shop for their EMS by who they trust/know to tune it, and go with what they recommend. Many of us assume we can tune an EMS system all by ourself, or assume that a dyno shop can tune ANY EMS... Not always the case sadly...
There was a Big difference between Phil's set up and Chris's set up. Chris's motor was fully built and had a Haltech $$$$, Phil's was meant to get the most out of a budget build and it did that pretty well. Chris has a ton of head work done on his L and that's the main reason for the power difference.
-
What is a good price these days for a good used stroker V07 crank?
-
There is another video somewhere that doesn't have the 80s techno music just the cars for a soundtrack, at the beginning it has a lot of close ups of the z.
We somehow misplaced our copy for the past 10yrs, it would be cool to see it again.
-
I use a sport 2k, its been flawless. The thing I see issues with in the MS system is the fine tuning. Getting a car to run is easy, but getting one to run like factory is where all the money is spent. That being said, the S500 is not a good fit, its a lot of work on a Z and not much different from the stock ecu. Id save the money and get the 2k. What are you wanting your engine management to do?
-
Alamo Autosports supports the local Z clubs, Our club does alot of dyno days there. Usually $40 for three runs at the event.
-
Motul works very well.
-
That's way lean! Anything after 15lbs of boost, it should be in the 10s.
Why? I tune most L28s and RBs at 11.5 to be safe.
-
Theres currently two (that I know of) z car clubs in the DFW area, Cowtown Z and Z Car Club of Texas but they are all in dallas and cowtown is in the fort worth area. I've been contemplating starting a Z club for the area north of Dallas. Personally in my family we have five z cars (71 240z, 81 280zx, 82 280zx, 2x 83 280zx), we live in Lake Dallas and would be looking to have members from Denton to Carrollton. I'm not really sure of the Z car population in these areas, but if you live around there let me know.
Cowtown meets in Mansfield, and the ZCot meets in N Plano. Between the two clubs there are probably 500 members, but only 100 or two that are active. Both clubs are ZCCA members. Have you been to any meetings?
-
I see your past this point, but for others dealing with this issue here is my advise-
If the tensioner slips out you can always use a light, magnet, and a long screwdriver to pop it back in, Ive done it many times. The main thing you want to watch out for is if the chain has jumped a tooth on the crank sprocket, then it can be a pain. Most of the time if the sprocket is close but just wont line up with the cam, the tensioner is still in its just out a bit and needs to be pried back into place.
-
I have the 12" setup as well, but in a heaver s130 making 380rwhp and I never have issues at the track, even in the Texas heat.
Our sessions are usually 15-30 min, I could see if you were out for extended periods of time, the larger set may be beneficial.
-
Because there are so many rattles at various RPMs, he'd have to be pretty good to single out engine detonation.
It was detonating louder than the rattles. Plus the detonation doesn't sound like a rattle, its very distinct. They don't fly Brice all over the world to tune race cars because hes just "ok" at tuning, take some advise from the guy. Id do a leak down so you know where you stand. If you need some help making pulls let me know.
-
These switches are part of a complete re-wire, not for the faint of heart but a definate improvement. OH, and there dual illumination, when the running lights are on the symbol lights up and when the switch is activated the light bar is illuminated. Not cheap, but again, an improvement in my opinion.
Where did you source the switches?
-
They way Ive replaced them in the past is with a press and a little white grease, just make sure they are going in from the bottom and the split faces front to back of the car. You can do it on the car if the car is on the ground and you use a block and a jack to press it in, but the easiest way is with it out, using a press to put it in.
-
Is that the rear cross member bushing?
280ZX BC Coilover System ( Any Interest )
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
I'm ready now, when is this going to happen?