1 fast z
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Posts posted by 1 fast z
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Ah, what the hell, I bought the Moroso Electric Water Pump Drive Kit (63750) and extra drive cog that can spin the stock L series water pump 28% faster last night......to go with my new LD pump.
The electric motor is designed to turn big block water pumps...should be overkill for the L Series water pump then. I'm assuming the LD engine has a redline of about 5000 rpm, so maybe the pump is designed to flow a maximum at a lower rotational speed...can anyone confirm this?Today it's hotter, like 30 degrees and after one good rev and back off, then rev again.......straight into detonation......
.......and I should point out that before testing today, I got sick of seeing that temp needle 3/4 hot, so I put in a 180 degree F (82 degree C) thermostat. (Was 190 deg. F) The needle sits just a fraction over half way now and the temps are stable...the needle doesn't budge. This is all fairly drastic stuff to bump the timing a up a few degrees I know....
Am I asking too much?? Can the stock N42/N42 L28 combo handle 38 degrees total advance?
Not as it is, it seems.
(..........block pressure man....it's all to do with block pressure........)
I am not sure what your elevation is, but 38 degrees full is ALOT for a non quench motor.
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I actually bought three of those manifolds. One from you, and two from the original seller. I am building one of the ones I got from the original guy into a turbo setup this week actually.
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I wonder where that intake is now braap,
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Whoever did this did NOT know what they were doing. THis head will never flow as good as it did stock, unless the ports are welded up and started over.
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Squirter always goes to the pressure side of the piston. The pressure side of the piston, is the right side of the engine, if sitting in the drivers seat. This only applies to motors that turn counter-clockwise if sitting in the drivers seat.
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Spend the money on a high speed steel set. Much better and longer lasting than a carbon steel set.
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260 rods are the same as 280z rods.
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Here are some photos of the new torque plate I made. It is 2" Thick Alloy Steel. Stress relieved after it was milled, then it was surface ground to ensure it was directly flat.
Also shown is the new N42 Block I am going to use.
Also is the new pistons. They are for a z32TT. Wiseco brand, 87mm bore.
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Selling point at best. I always re-torque, felpro, hks, solid copper, whatever. Things settle, things stretch, etc. I am just lending my experience.
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Did you retorque the head? You should always run it up to opperating temp for 30 minutes, build some heat in the motor. Let it sit overnight, then pull the valve cover and retorque the head. Do this by starting in the middle, back each bolt off 1/4 of a round to break loose static friction, and do a one sweep motion to the desired torque spec. Without doing this you risk blowing a gasket.
Atleast with the stock head, you dont have to pull the cam(s) to re-torque the head!
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What was the T.I.R. on the center main?
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Some of us cannot get a good et, because trans, and rear ends cant hold up
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I dont find a user on here named slowoldcar.
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Is it a stock bore motor? Stock head bolts?
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I have personally never seen a block out of square enough to cause gasket problems.
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Greddy RS is plenty.
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I know guys running 450 RWHP on 26 PSI with your so called "fail pro" I would look at your block, bolts, head, tune, etc. before blaming the gasket.
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I am looking for a virgin set. Thanks though.
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I am looking for a couple sets of 240z rods. PM or email me if you know of or have a set you want to let go. Thanks.
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Read first post about the situation.. 17-4 PH washer, which is CUSTOM! Washer nor bolt was the problem. The problem is an alluminum hub.
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Yes and always install cam first. Then install rocker arms second.
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It is a good idea to always heli-coil those bolts holes.
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Response from Chris at BHJ.
Hello Bryan,
Thanks for the email. We have been making the aluminum dual-pulley damper
as more-or-less a hopped-up OEM-replacement for many years now and have not
heard about any problems, except in cases where the damper has been
installed, removed and re-installed onto a crank (or multiple cranks)
several times. In cases like that, the aluminum does not return back to
size to the degree steel does and that is part of the reason we came out
with the new all-steel version. If that is not the case, then there must
have been something that came loose at some point to lead to this problem.
The majority of our customers are very concerned about weight and that is
what led to this damper originally being made with the aluminum outer-ring.
It was only recently that we had a request for the steel outer hub and that
customer has been installing/removing his damper almost every year since he
first bought it and that was the first production version of the part. He
is now putting the rebuilt-steel version on a Bonneville car.
Sorry, but we can not warranty the damper repair, but we can do the hub
replacement on the existing damper, using either the aluminum or steel outer
shell (your choice, same price). The steel outer hub is bare steel and will
need to be sprayed with clear coat or regular paint to keep it from rusting.
Standard hub replacements are $225.00 at Jobber Discount.
Thanks for the email and let me know what you'd like to do. If you send it
in, I will need to give you an RMA number, so it will be accepted in
Shipping.
Cheers,
Chris @ BHJ
The electric motor is designed to turn big block water pumps...should be overkill for the L Series water pump then. I'm assuming the LD engine has a redline of about 5000 rpm, so maybe the pump is designed to flow a maximum at a lower rotational speed...can anyone confirm this?
.......and I should point out that before testing today, I got sick of seeing that temp needle 3/4 hot, so I put in a 180 degree F (82 degree C) thermostat. (Was 190 deg. F) The needle sits just a fraction over half way now and the temps are stable...the needle doesn't budge. 
Old Mech. Injection setup converting to turbo EFI Intake.
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I bought a few of these old boat hydroplane intakes a few years ago, with the intentions of making them into an efi setup. Well I had to change the manifold gasket on my 77 280z turbo this week. So I figured while I had the manifold off, what better excuse to make a ITB turbo intake for it. SO this is what I have come up with so far. It uses 44mm throttle plates, and full tapered runners. I built .75" radius velocity stacks on the inside for better flow entrance. The velocity stacks are also fully polished. I also lightened up the intake as much as possible on the peices that I built. I see alot of custom intakes, and I have one word, HEAVY. SO as you can see I milled out the velocity stack plate for maximum weight removal. I also like making intakes as much of a bolt on as possible. So I utilize the stock throttle linkage. I fitted the TPS inside the cab also, since with Megasquirt, you can program WOT, and Closed throttle, and it takes a linear function from those two points. I have not installed the injectors yet, but they will be ABOVE the throttle plates for better fuel atomization. This is just my daily driver z at the moment, and I wanted a bit more power.