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1 fast z

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Everything posted by 1 fast z

  1. I could of gundrilled the cams for you, Thats what I do as part of my business. Also, I would highly advise against S7, the benifit of 9310 or even 8620 is that you can allow torsional twist as the core is not brittle. The S7 will be hard all the way through and become brittle as it is torsional, and develop a crack potentially. I have made many billet cams, roughing the profile is not difficult.
  2. Im building a 400+ NA one now. Should sound good with a fully counterweighted crank at 10K Do you have some quench in your head with tight piston to head clearance?
  3. My motor with stock cams peaked at 8200. Now at 8600.
  4. What CR are you running? Hopefully around 12-1 with a pent roof. I have not read this whole thread to know. Put a turbo on it and join me in the 750+ HP range .
  5. I have written many post about the Siamesed vs non on the F54 and N42. N42 has solid walls between 1-2, 3-4, 5-6. F54 does not.
  6. Didn't I recommend crane months ago...... Did you talk to Chase? Isky is terrible to deal with, and I will never again. I had crane do a billet cam grind for me on a billet I built, and they got it done in two weeks. With heat treat and copper plate...... Yea, fairly mild cam grind.
  7. There is a ton of flow test of all the stock heads somewhere on this site, that I did ten years ago.
  8. Pay for the shipping, and Ill flow the head for free..... Some pics of the last billet cam I built. Its a roller cam for our buick straight8 landspeed car. I cut the oil pump drive gear on my 5 axis CNC mill. Everything else I did manually.
  9. That's because your E31 has no quench. I have run 12:1 on pump gas with very little piston to head clearance for over 10 years now on a L. Run 36 degrees full timing also. Mapping the timing curve also helps a lot.
  10. Maybe I have missed it, but what sort of flow numbers do you have on the EX and IN? Im glad to see you went with 8620 cams, over the cast cams. We had that discussion a few months ago, and you were not wanting to go that route, but you will be very happy you have. Make sure they copper plate the entire cam, to keep the undercut areas from getting heat treated. Generally they copper plate the entire cam, then pre grind all the bearing surfaces and lobes and that removes the copper. Then when they heat treat and induce the carbon with natural gas in the furnace, it will surface harden
  11. If the motor doesn't produce 400 HP +, then there is something wrong. I have 300 RWHP out of my stock headed 3.1 liter.......
  12. I will PM you the secrets, on what application you can get a double row timing chain gear from and machine off the single row on the KA and bolt on the double row gear....
  13. Oh wow, it is not a roller style chain? Id walk away from that in a heartbeat!
  14. Yea, the rollers wont help as much as you think. The stock shim on bucket design like I use is offset, so it essentially acts somewhat a roller. I made my own sprockets and lower chain. If you have an interference motor, and run it to 8500+ like I do mine, I would ditch the single row in a heartbeat!
  15. I would definitely get rid of that single row timing chain. I built mine like that to start with and it ended up stretching too much. Build a double row setup like I did.
  16. Sorry, I dont come on here as much as I should And have not read through the past 13 pages. I am super busy in other parts of automotive racing that takes a lot of my time compared to when I could be on here reading every post. Yes I have 5 full CNC mills and 5 full CNC lathes. My mills are all at least 4 axis and one of them is a big five axis, so I have a fair amount of machining capability compared to the old days when I first started. But the cam cores on this would be fairly simple all things considered. Just would take a fair amount of time, but in a CNC lathe the material can
  17. Ill have to PM you the Buick straight 8 head I am building out of billet. I dont own a casting shop, so I just make heads out of billet .
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