infiltrate2000
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Posts posted by infiltrate2000
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Looking for a 280zx turbo afm in working condition. Must have with the cover, don't want anything that has been modified.
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Looking for a working 71 240z hazard switch.
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Still looking for a bumper.
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Great! Thank you, let me know when you find out. Appreciate it
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Looking for a 70-72 240z rear bumper.
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Uship you sometime find a good deal if someone is heading your way. Fuel price is real high now which make transport even more money. I had quite a few cars shipped and used one Broker, 954-857-8191 ask for Glen.
Price change depending on time of year and i said fuel price, i had 3 cars shipped from california to ny paid as low as $700 to recently $ 950.
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Jersey, for trans option you can try a 240sx ka transmission. This is what my friend currently has in his car. You can get these transmission cheap i have seen them go for $100-200. You have to swap the bellhousing from the L series trans and modify it a little.
http://atlanticz.ca/...tall/index.html
I like how the shift too.
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I run 18 psi on a 50 trim z also, stock l28et internals. Car has tecII standalone. I say instead of going forged piston, get a standalone. Stock efi is garbage, my friend blew a ring land also on a motor with stock turbo that was only on 7-8 psi of boost. We are currently throwing in a early l28 NA engine (read & learn from TonyD) and running 300zx ecu and maf with nistune. Ironic, his setup is simlar to the one you list, but he was on stock turbo.
Get a better spark/fuel managment and use stock piston. Heck, we are going with a NA motor on my friend car but with some way of tuning.
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z32 trans is stronger than z33, well early z33 had problems.
Maka, why even go with z32, when you have option like the r154? R154 are real strong, if you get a low mileage one, even better or rebuilt one. Had one in my 500hp supra, it held up, only downside it shifts like garbage.
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yeah i heard the intake because it goes across, does not clear hood with betamotorsport mount. HG and arp are a big plus, i have seen these ge motor put out 450whp with a gt35 size turbo on an sc300 when tt headgasket. These motors are so amazing, aside from the fact it so easy to get parts, the are overbuilt. I had a MK4 Supra with the gte motor converted to single, was making around 500whp on original engine with 165000 miles.
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Beautiful car. Are you using betamotorsport crossmember? What transmission are you using? 2jz-ge price went up, how much did you get your engine for? I agree with you since you will be replacing stock twin turbos anyway, if you get 2jz ge cheap, works out better. 1jzgte engine are getting cheap now too, i have seen engine alone go for $1000, sell off stock twins for $250 and its like getting engine for $750, some people ask more than that for a 2jz-ge.
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Looking for rb mounting kit for s30 240z. Motor mount and transmission mount.
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Back when i was in the DSM scene, some people ran those F1 clutch with terrible results, only people who seem to have luck with them were the ones close to stock. This was years ago though, i dont know if its still the same.
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The bushing was already installed. I will have to go under there and look everything over more carefully. The z rear suspension is pretty simple, i have a few idea on where to look. I was told to look for bushing damage, tweak in mounting point on control arm and brackets.
RebekahsZ, most of the places that have the $60 alignment will not touch my car because of the camber adjustments on the coilovers. I do know someone who does a good job after hrs though and charges same price. Hoping i can figure out what causing wheel to sit foward or at least he can point me in the right direction,
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I measured from end of each rim to the same spot on the door. I used a few different positions before such as key hold, door handle etc. The measurements i get is the passenger side is about 3/4 of an inch shorter. Which means the wheel is closer to the door on one side. Now this is an old car with a lot of aftermarket parts so i under it is tough to get measurement as stuff may not be the same on each side, gap on door etc. But it does look like wheel is forward more on the passenger side and measurement seem to indicate that. The other reason i think the wheel is closer is because upon pulling off at low speed there is a lot of what seem like hop, feel like the wheels are fighting each other. I know it can be drivetrain problem, but a friend said it could also be the alignment/toe making the wheel fight each other.
I guess the best thing to do is take it an alignment shop and go from there.
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Will make some measurements. I read reading it could be bracket for c arm off by a little that causes a drastic change of wheel position.
Yeah i have to redo my black trims too, it looks terrible right now. A lot of masking, pain in the rear.
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I taught about quarter panel too, they were both replaced though. They were both replaced though at the same time. Look at these picture, of driver side and pass side, The wheel def seems to be forward.
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The passenger wheel on my 73 240z sit a lot more forward in the wheel well. I have attached a picture. I took a look on control arm and did not notice anything bent. The bushing are new on the arm, the car was never hit. I have az coilover with camber plate on top, but from the look off this picture looks like the toe is very off the way the wheel is all the way forward. They are stock arms with no adjustment, as i said before looks fine. Is there anything else i should be looking for that can cause this?
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Have a 73 240z msd 6 series. Bought msd 8920 tach adapter in an effort to get the tach working. I followed the instructions on link
The tach work but its not accurate. At idle it reads 0, when you rev it does move but seems to be off. My car is cammed with triple carb and the idle is low, but this thing dont even seem to register anything at idle. Anyone with tips to get this to work or who had the same problem?
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Looking for a working rehostat/dash light dimmer swtich for my z.
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Thanks for everyone help. Beermanpete, seems my car is setup the way you stated. I guess the wire i taught was for the starter is actually the fusible link, i have attached a picture, is this the wire? It had no connector on it before was just wrapped around the starter which i guess is why it was not charging the battery, the connection was probably lose. If this indeed is the wire going to hook it back up and test voltage to battery.
I am just use to cars always having a wire from a fuse going straight to the battery terminal.
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Have a 73 240z. Trying to figure out the alternator to battery wiring. I see wire from alternator body goes into the harness, then there is a plug that goes to the voltage regulator. That wire then runs is then tied into the loom of the main harness.
Where is the wire that goes to the battery to charge it? Instead all i see is wire that comes out the harness for my starter, and postive cable from battery to starter along with my ground. Anyone have a picture of stock alternator to battery setup?
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Need a 73 240z brake boostervaccum hose with check . The one that goes from brake booster to intake manifold
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Bought a 78 280z with a l28et swap. Anyhow, the owner told me the ignition switch was bad. To start the car i had to put it in the start position, take a wire and make a contact behind the ignition switch. The car started got it home.
After that day the car never started again. With key on on position, jumping the starter it only cranked. Today there was a relay lose and my friend reconnected it. He said two wires were power, and two ground. I have no idea what this relay is for, it was zipped tied to the fuse box cover, i took it out to take a picture. Anyhow tried jumping starter again, this time the fusible link started smoking. So i know for a fact now i need new links. The car had symptoms of bad fusible link too even before the smoking, it was getting no spark which i checked for, and i dont believe it was getting any gas, not a hint of gas smell but i did not check this.
I am going to replace the fusible link and ignition switch, my question is does anyone have any idea what this relay is? Also could jumping the the ignition switch harness, to get the car to crank cause these fusible link to burn? Its just strange it started smoking after he reconnected this relay, just trying to see if it concident or maybe this is what caused it.
Thanks for everyone help. Beermanpete, seems my car is setup the way you stated. I guess the wire i taught was for the starter is actually the fusible link, i have attached a picture, is this the wire? It had no connector on it before was just wrapped around the starter which i guess is why it was not charging the battery, the connection was probably lose. If this indeed is the wire going to hook it back up and test voltage to battery.
Got Turbo?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Used to cool a large building?