Ptero

Noticing a fair amount of smoke from the exhaust on that 2nd video 😬

Cold start: Operating temp:

Found the engine to be stumbling a bit so I'm trying to dig into what the issue is. L28 with an E88 head. Pulled each sparkplug wire individually with the car running and there was no change when I pulled the wire leading to cylinder 3. Placed the wire close to the sparkplug and I could hear it sparking so I know it's hot. Got a new set of spark plugs, no change. Tried another wire, no change. Cleaned cap & rotor, no change. Adjusted all valves cold to .008 for intake and .01 for exhaust, no change other than running smoother overall. I didn't adjust them when the engine was hot. Next I did a compression test with the following results: 1 - 133 dry / 141 wet 2 - 135 dry / 140 wet 3 - 135 dry / 142 wet 4 - 136 dry / 143 wet 5 - 140 dry / 148 wet 6 - 144 dry / 153 wet According to my spark plugs (which are black & sooty), I believe I'm running rich. Carb setup is round top SU carbs which I tuned last summer. I barely drove it last summer, but I'm thinking it was stumbling then as well. While I search for the next step, I'm also looking for suggestions on what to try next.

I read this as you bought it for $75 and thought that's a hell of a deal 😅 Then I realized it's a '75 haha.

Got impatient and had no use for the torque converter. Used a sawzall to cut it off at the bolts once I had the trans off. *shrugs*

Yeup, I've watched that video too 😊 I think I've got my mind wrapped around it. My mechanic is lending me his degree wheel, piston stop & dial indicator so I can make this happen. Now my curiosity has gotten the best of me so I'm gonna give it a try.

I guess it's really more separating the torque converter from the engine. Wasn't sure if I'd be able to get at the bolts without being able to turn the crank.

How do I go about removing an auto transmission from a seized L28? Can I pull the trans off while the torque converter stays attached to the engine? Even if you can, how does one remove the torque converter at that point?

Progress of the cleanup.

Timing chain ate into the guide after it broke off. When looking at timing on cam marker #1, the engine was quite retarded. Given that and the broken timing guide, I can only imagine the chain is stretched. I didn't even bother lining things up with marker 2 or 3 on the sprocket to see if that would take up the slack. I'd feel better just getting a new timing chain kit.

Engine I'm looking to refresh is an '82 l28et /w a F54 bock and P90 head. Upon first inspection at home, the timing guide had snapped off half way. Cool. Neat. Great sign of things to come. The previous owner was obviously clueless. So I proceeded with caution. The spare engine /w donor car had been sitting for a while. Totally seized up. Spare parts are great though. It ended up being easier to tear the engine out than lift it out. When in doubt, use a bigger hammer. So I used a combination of elbow grease, sawzall & skid-steer.

I suppose it's time to do some kind of work on my car and I'm needing a winter project. So here we go. Project thread. Engine: 82 l28et (apparently running condition). Also a spare 81 l28et for spare parts. Goals: driving Car: Running 260z or 260-280z shell (can't remember what it is) I know this is nothing new, but I'm mostly keeping track of this for my own personal records and also trying to keep myself motivated.

I saw that thread last night. It was late. There were big words. I'll read through that thread once I've got my caffeine. At this point there's a certain amount of "while I'm here" thought process and I'm trying to curb unnecessary steps. This looks to be something worth doing.

Looks like this is all covered in chapter 2 of the infamous "How to Rebuild your Datsun Engine". It would appear my comment above is correct.

After looking at it, I think it's making more sense now. Timing cover isn't on as the head and block are separated. Timing chain is obviously not on due to that as well. So if I'm looking at this right... Keep in mind the cylinder head is not connected to the block. Cylinder head can be timed by having the #1 mark sprocket notch line up with the oblong groove. I believe the FSM even says the groove would be slightly to the right of the oblong marking. Lobes at this point should be the "rabbit ears". Making sure the block is at TDC on #1 cylinder is pretty easy because the head isn't on. Now I can mate the head /w the block knowing they're both at the correct positions to put on the timing chain. Am I on the right path here?