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Chickenwing

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  1. Edit: 75-78 280Z. End edit. If anyone is looking for the stock expansion valve o-rings which are NLA, for the outside sealing ring use a 1-1/2”id x 1-11/16”od x 3/32”cs also known as AS568-128 HNBR. The inside ring is 1-1/2”id x 1-5/8”od x 1/16”cs also known as AS568-029 HNBR. I purchased mine at www.Theoringstore.com . It took a few tries. Hope this helps somebody.
  2. It’s an old thread. Just saying thanks for the lead.
  3. Via FSM determined steering lock switch shorted to ground causing blown 10a Hazard Fuse. Disconnected steering lock switch -ops check good. Well, sorta. Voltage was reading way too high showing close to 16v and I know my stock one struggles to put out even 15v. Removed gauge and found an adjustment set screw. Determined the top left pin (with the index pin pointing down) was positive (it has red tape around it the wire) and the top right was negative. Hooked it up to the battery with the engine running. I used some molex pins I had on hand to make the test leads. Used my multimeter as a reference and determined idle voltage was 14v flat. Made an index mark so I could go back to home. It was intuitive from there. Clockwise increased the reading, counterclockwise decreases the reading. Reads as it should now. This also fixed my hazard lights as that circuit also feeds the hazard light switch. Hope this helps some puke in the future. Reference pages on 77 FSM: BE39 gauge removal. BE-33 schematic/diagram.
  4. Digging this back up. I have the same wheels. I have two center caps if ya want them, but they are not show quality... By chance you know what length/diameter lugnuts these take?
  5. Thanks to both. I’m sure plenty of other stuff breaks in the climate control system. That’s why Step 1 is “Verify Fault.” If anyone else has other faults to add on please do so. It is SO nice when you google a problem and TaDa! a legit answer pops up!
  6. This has probably already been figured out, but here is a fix if someone searches this forum. 1977 280Z. Problem: Air will not come out of dash vents at any climate control lever position. Cause: Mode door actuator not retracting to close heater plenum due to broken plastic boss at retract spring mount bracket on Heater plenum. Part location: Just above left hand side defrost outlet. Applicable 1977 FSM pages: AC-31 Figure AC-41. NOTE: The offending broken piece is NOT in front of the heater core or evaporator core. This repair is safe. However some common maintenance practice is required. Non-standard Tools needed: Drill, Pop Rivet gun, applicable size drill bit. One applicable size aluminum pop rivet. STEPS: 1. Verify fault condition. 2. Remove left hand seat. 3. Gain access to the return spring bracket. 4. Disengage the spring from the bracket and let it hang from the mode door actuator rod. 5. Remove the bracket if necessary to finish removing the broken boss. 6. Reinstall bracket and center the bracket boss hole in place where the broken boss was. (This will be your drill index.) 7. Decision time. A 1/4” aluminum rivet repair this nicely. However, most hand rivet guns which will access this space only go to 3/16”. You may attempt using this or procure a gun which will handle a 1/4” rivet. I elected to procure a HF pneumatic Rivet gun. (Because I am a tool whore.) 8. Using a drill matched to your chosen rivet size, AND using the bracket whole to center your drill bit, use low pressure high speed to drill the rivet hole. The plastic may be brittle. High pressure or low speed may cause your bit to rip a chunk out instead of creating a nice round hole. 9. Rivet bracket to heater core housing. If using 1/4” rivet length of 1/2” should be fine. If using 3/16” use a washer on the head side to take up the excess space and go up a size in length to ensure there is enough “mushroom” on the backside. The good thing about the 3/16” is if it fails, you have a chance to go up to a 1/4” as a subsequent repair. As the rivet is in sheer, I don’t THINK it will fail if installed properly. Also remember to ensure you are pressing the bracket tightly against the housing when you squeeze the rivet, other wise you will end up with a loosely fitting bracket and cycles will eventually fail it. 10. Reinstall return spring. Verify the spring is in the indexes. The spring is surprisingly strong. Needle nose pliers are helpful. 11. Verify fix. 12. Reinstall seat and done. Hope this helps someone. FYSA: The first pic is on my daily. The second two are on a heat/ac box I had laying around. I needed to verify the repair before proceeding on my daily. Edit: I had my instrument panel under cover and center console removed for installing carpet, so I don’t know if it is required for this repair. (It sure was easy with them removed though.)
  7. These boots are nicer than the ones I installed. My old pins didn’t fit either, but the kit came with new pins and crimping was pretty straight forward. Post up your supplier on these!
  8. Any more traction Fairlady? It will be a pain, but if you are able to remove the rail without molesting the radiator support, you should be able to massage the support to fit. It will take rebending the flanges to the correct height, but everything else would get to remain the same.
  9. I used my detail gun. I shoulda used my hvlp. I thought I would save it for the clear and just throw the detail gun away. Oh well. It's kind of a Ratsun thing for now anyway. Clear coat tomorrow.
  10. Masked it off for the orange. The blue does look surprisingly good with the yellow! Hope the weather holds so I can spray it tomorrow.
  11. I gotta work on the scale a little but I like it with this ugly paint.
  12. Just rubbing her out to keep motivation to the max. Not much I can do on drill weekend. Think I'm gonna try and paint a Japanese war flag on the hood this coming weekend. Lol
  13. Ok. New chassis. 77 with an Oct 76 build date. She's kind of a cocktail waitress wearing a Dolly Parton wig with the Godawful yellow makeup, but she has good bones.
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