4everDATSUN
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Posts posted by 4everDATSUN
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Nomex honeycomb
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i think its ok as long as it is before the MAF. not sure if you have the old school Z MAF tho...
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if its a float issue it would leak out of both throttle bores, right? (unless one was pluged with gum or somthing) sounds to me like the idle screw isnt adjusted correctly or something along those lines. you prob should just look everything over, and if you cant see anything wrong, pull it apart and rebuild it
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ive just started getting into replacing rust. ive got it in the battery tray, pass. firewall, and driverside frame rail. i havent decided on rails but i know zeddfindings and baddogg rails are commonly recommended. im goin to have a local sheetmetal shop form me a new battery tray area so it looks original.
good luck with your project!
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i have one question. you put all that money in the motor, but stayed with stock rods? any reason, sure would make me nervous with a turbo like that
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do you have to use a 5speed bell housing or can i use a 4speed bell housing? i dont have the two to compare.
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im pretty sure the concrete pros use rebar or fiberglass strand to prevent from cracking
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flamingriver sells a 9/16 (0.5625) 28 spline joint
but d-shaped joints are made in all different sizes and a shaft can be easily modified to accept such a joint. IMO
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both of wich i can get for you, or can order straight thru the website
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what thread is the bleed valve, and what thread is the tee?
ive got a ton of brass fittings here in the store and will be more than willing to help. im assuming your using 3/16 line and double flaring the line using 3/8x24 nuts...
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im using beck arnley bj's, in believe those were japanese products. i havent driven the car since the install, so i couldnt tell ya good or bad. but i havent had any problems with any of their stuff yet.
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have you bought somthing other than cheap chinese bjs. you can easily find a pair of bjs on ebay for under 40$. if you want a good ball joint youll have to pay more. DANA makes premium bjs. napa part # 260-1198 apx $50 per joint
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anyone have pics of this installed. im just having problems visualizing it.
NVM i read the threads about this mount a couple back, answered my own question
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i just got off work, ill have to get back to you tommorow on that. but im pretty sure they are steel.
i didnt have any here in the store, but i called a tech line and verified that the insert are made of steel.
the numbers i listed are kits that come with the thread setter tool, mandrels, and an assortment of different size nuts. everything is sold seperatly if needed
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i work at NAPA and we sell these such nutsert kits or poly nuts
PN 770-2875 (for SAE sizes)
PN 770-1889 (for metric sizes)
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is there anywhere on the east coast i can get nice headwork like that done?
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is it possible to use two of the shorter axles instead of the long and the short? i know one measures 19 and the other measures 20. and according to the install recomendations we have to shorten both by reversing the inner races of each outer joint.
nvm: last night i read a few threads down, brian510 and a few others had the same idea i did. i took out my old diff. stub axles and saw that one splined end was longer than the other.
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did you split the calipers for pc? or just one piece?
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Modern Motorsports sells nice 280z stub axles if your interested in the upgrade
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anyone have pics of their modded trans mount?
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y would you have to worry about keeping them synched. once they r set, thats it. only need to be checked and adjusted once a year. and once tuned correctly with propper jets you shouldnt have to bother with jets any more.
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actually the knuckles i sprayed with epoxy primer. and the t/c rods, i didnt realize the sleeves came off till after it was sand blasted and new sleves came with the energy suspension master kit.
Throttle Linkage For Triple Webers
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
PanzerAce, I would love to see pictures of your cable set up. I am working on one now. I bought a cable wheel off of ebay from RHD Engineering, and now I am working out valid return spring options as well as cable mounting