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oldhemi

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Everything posted by oldhemi

  1. Not bitching, just asking because I have not found it yet: Is Google search going to be available or did I just not find it yet? Are old posts going to be archived and not available through a "default" search Is this area going to be the area/thread/forum where to put new info on the new software? Can I change Fonts - some are not readable on my screen either shading and/or the font itself. (I installed new software on mainframes for a living for 350+ years, so I have some idea on the drill)
  2. I am very interested in some responses to this thread because I plan on doing these in the future. Madkaw, is it possible that cHARLIE ADDED A LITTLE METAL ON THE ROCKER SIDE damn cap lock- for one to trim for rot reasons. I cant make any observation how the rocker side is configured because I have not removed the sill vinyl cover yet. I have been saving your pics and posts and am looking forward to your journey through this. Perhaps this thread needs to be moved to Welding and Fabrication to get more inputs/traffic.
  3. I want to add some information. The 70-73 interior panels and armrests do NOT interchange with a early 260Z door. The 240Z had a 2 piece pull and armrest deal. The 260Z and up went to a 1 piece unit. There are many differences on the steel stamping on the steel door frame. I am pretty sure but not positive that the 74.5 260 and 75- 8/76 doors and interior stuff are the same as the early 260Z door. If one is looking for complete compatibility then this means that 240Z owners would want to stay with 240Z doors and 260Z owners should look for early 260Z ( and possibly the 74.5 - 8/76) doors. (Still hunting for that elusive early perfect 260Z door) If you want to hammer/ weld / raise some metal on the door frame in order to install interior panels and arm rest, you could probably make the switch. If you dont care about interior panels or are going to do some modifications - please ignore this. I will post some pictures after the Feb 20 switch in BB providers.
  4. I appreciate all of the comments and the kind offer of a very cheap head. I am leaning towards Blue72's hypothesis that the damn thing just broke. This is a contingency motor and I do have positive news on my old motor: I soaked the pistons for a week with ATF as a precaution. Its not stuck at all. Turned over very easily by hand yesterday using the crankshaft pulley nut. I will turn it one revolution every day this week. I dont think I NEEDED to do this treatment, but I was accessing the rust situation at the same time and was in no hurry. Rust is typically bad for a DD Connecticut car. But I knew that when I stopped driving it. Anybody got a rust free front belly pan? I have a ways to go on determing the health of the 74,255 mile L26. All things being equal, I gotta wonder if I would feel a difference with the L28........
  5. Thanks for the replies guys. PO had a LS1 installed and has no idea what happened to the liner - he has all of his work done for him. The gasket does show more exhaust leakage than the other cylinders, but not to the outside edges. I have no idea why someone attempted to remove that liner. The part where it attaches to the head on the bottom is still there. Maybe a mechanic bent it when installing a gasket. The exhaust manifold has the cold start "flapper" welded closed. I have read tests where the liners were removed and the head did not flow any better, dont know if they do worse either. Since this will not be a "built" motor, I am more concerned with exhaust leaks. I dont think that one port not quite equal to the others will be a noticeable performance detriment. Heck, I dont know at this point if the motor is trash. After seeing the liner missing, the exhaust manifold "mod", the fouled brand new looking BP8Es plugs and the broken stud with goop on what looks to be a new water pump - I gotta wonder about this $100 motor! I have to at least wonder about the "mechanic" that has been working on it! I wish I had a camera that worked - Santa did not have the budget for a new one this year.
  6. I just picked up a N42/N47 engine. When I took the EFI intake and exhaust manifolds off, I discovered that there is a port liner 95% missing on cylinder number 5. I have been reading and reading and reading about the liners NOT affecting performance from several experts on several boards. So, will one missing liner affect performance? A little background info: This is a contingency motor if I have some problems reviving my 260Z's motor which was rode hard and put away wet 19 years ago! I ran Weber 40DCOE's, a 3/2 header with plugged emission ports and never got around to installing a cam in it back in 1976. I was pretty happy with the way it ran and have no plans to increase the performance over what I had. Of course, I want to maximize what I have. Technology and information has come a long way in the decades since I last worked on the car! I have a square port header installed on the 2.6 that I would use if I have to run this 2.8 motor. There was a very recent thread that further backed up older threads regarding running round port exhausts with square port headers. However, Paul R. (Braap) added the little line: " round port liners line up perfectly with the square port header". So, now I am a little worried about exhaust leaks around the port missing the liner if I have to use this motor. Comments on this new bit of info? Thanks in advance for any help and or comments.This is a great site with a whole lotta information!
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