Stevej

Hey Mark. I'm using the MM axles with the CV joints and I'm using the inner end stops. I know what you were thinking though, without them the axle slips in and won't drive the wheel nor the car. Steve

Anyone broken the innards of a vlsd? I have a short nose R200 from a Q45 behind an LS1/6speed used primarily for autocrossing. Decided to take it for a drive last week and had to have my wife come get me with the trailer. Started to get a clunk in synch with the driveshaft revolutions and the car lost the ability to transfer the power to the wheels. Once stopped couldn't move again, driveshaft spins the input flange on the diff, just makes a clunk won't transfer power. Up on jack stand everything spins and drives the wheels as it should, looks like it's just under load the problem occurs. Pulled the diff, thought the splines on the input shaft might have gotten worn and spun, nope. No metal in the drain plug, nothing looks out of place or makes sounds with the back cover off. If the innards of the vlsd get fried should it just lose the ls or will it completely stop transferring power. I'll get another diff from the junkyard to confirm after the holidays, just wondering if anyone has experienced this. I'm also thinking about a cusco or a kaaz, anyone put one of these in a short R200 from a Q45? Thanks

Have you swapped out the trans with the motor in the car? After getting mine together and driving it I have the issue with the aluminum 3-4 shift fork, it's popping out of gear. I have to pull the trans and rebuild it but it doesn't look like I'd have the room to get just the trans out, I was thinking I needed to pull the whole thing.

That was the same problem I had with the 240 rails, they didn't yet have them produced but neglected to tell me they would be close to two months before I got them. Ended up building my own and was glad I did once I got theirs. Headers are uncoated, don't have the EGR port, I don't think any of the aftermarket ones have a provision for that. Think everyone deletes that in the computer programming. There are bungs for the O2 sensors but they aren't welded in, think they send them to give you the options to use or not. They are 330 from JCI, how about 280, save you fifty bucks. You can email me directly if you like, stevejjohnson@cox.net Steve

I ended up building my own that mounted higher and was a little beefier. If you're looking for headers I have an un-used set of John's Cars for the LS1 I'm looking to sell. Steve

Just cleaned out everything last night and took a spin but still have the issue. I'm running an earl filter (which I cleaned out last night) before the pump and the regulator/filter after. Filter had crap in it from the foam in the fuel cell but it looked like it was flowing. I cleaned everything out and it's still 55 at idle and dropping. I'm going to order an adjustable regulator today and pull the vette one. Thanks for the input Steve

I'm running a walbro 255 with the corvette filter/regulator but only getting 55lbs at the fuel rail at idle dropping to 50 when I blip the throttle hard. I've been experiencing some lean backfires and flatspots/hesitation in the mid throttle and am wondering if it's because of the fuel pressure. All the numbers I've seen on LS1Tech are 60lbs at idle and 58 under hard load. If this is the case could my drop in pressure be enough to cause the issue? Is the corvette non-adjustable regulator a bad idea? Thanks for any advice. Steve

Same here on the Taurus fan. Using it on a 24x19 Griffin radiator wired just for the high speed side. Modified thermostat and lowered fan levels keep the car at 180-190 pretty much all the time. Looks stock in there.

Here are a couple pics of the one I made. When I pull it apart to powdercoat it I'll grab some pictures showing more detail. I shamelessly stole the design from pictures that were in one of the forums, can't remember who's it was but they should get the credit for the design idea. I think Ross was working with the guy to see if they could be produced for sale through MM.

Just replaced the collector gaskets and took a spin but it's still running off a bit. I've read on LS1tech that it can go either way with the MAF, so tuning software it is. That's fine, I planned on getting it at some point, this just accelerates the timeline a bit.

Pulled the plugs last night as I've read on LS1Tech that a cracked plug could cause something like this but no luck, they were all good. Pulled what was left of the collector gaskets last night one blew out completely, the other was in 3 pieces. Start with the gaskets and wanted to do larger plug wires anyway. Might have to buy myslef HPtuners for christmas...

Thanks for that, hopefully that's it. Oddly enough yesterday it blew out one of the collector gaskets . The car has only been driven maybe 40 miles total but hopefully that was the cause the whole time. It doesn't do it when sitting still and revving up but it's had the problem the whole time it's been driven. That was about the only part I didn't actually bolt on myself, the muffler shop did it and probably didn't use the best quality ones.

Question for you guys running LS1s, did your computer require re-programming beyond the base changes to allow it to run in the swapped car? My setup is a stock 2000 Camaro LS1, emissions deleted in the computer, intake and airfilter setup like the LS1 page on JTR, MAF has been de-screened and ends polished up a bit, sanderson headers into 2.5 in. then a Y to 3 in. pipe to a Flowmaster 40 delta. The problem I have is under maybe half to full throttle I get lean pops (that's what they sound like) out the exhaust, flat spots and some studdering in the powerband from about 2k to maybe 3.5k rpm. It's obviously not pulling like it should be in that range. I don't have tuning software yet, I was going to be ordering HPtuners but wanted to wait a bit, thought I'd be able to drive it as is without additional tuning. Has anyone else run into this with a stock motor swap with these minor mods? Should this run well as is (assuming there are problems with any parts)? I thought the computer could accommodate for these minimal mods. Any input would be appreciated.

Yeah, I wasn't quite sure about them when I got them either. They're ASA wheels from a couple of years ago and I've had them sitting around. Tire rack sells ASA and they're licensed by BBS so I thought they should be ok until I figure out the whole setup. I was trying to see what I could fit under the fenders with coil overs and spaced out enough to clear the wilwood calipers. The 245.245.17 tires are about as wide as I can go now. Not sure I like the huge wheel look on the car and but I'm thinking I'll be changing it around as I'll want some more rubber on the road. It's got a stock LS1/T56 in it now but I've already got a cam, intake and valve train stuff that should push it over 400hp at the rear wheels.

Have one piece 120 per wheel knock offs in 17x7.5

Ok, looking for some slight direction from the suspension gurus out there. Getting ready to run the car in an autocross for the first time since getting it back together and I was hoping to get an idea of where to start with the setup. Some info on the car: Don't have the weight yet but it's a 240 shell with an LS1 motor/6speed with rollcage no creature comforts, aluminum dash, race seats but running with all the glass and bumpers Ground Control coil overs all four corners, trying to decipher the spring rates from the codes (been awhile since I bought them) and I think it's 200FR 225 or 250RR Koni 8610 all four corners Camber plates all four corners Adjustable TC rods 245/45/17 R compound tires all around Limited slip R200vsld (I know not the best choice for autox, I'll run it until it breaks and then replace with clutch type) I have the standard Suspension techniques front and rear bars but neither are on. I can put the front on if the consensus is I should but the rear can't happen yet with the Q45 diff CV axles in the way. From searching I have a pretty good idea what to have the car aligned to from 3 to 4.5 negative camber front 2-3.5 negative rear at least 6 positive caster front with 3/8 or so toe out and zero toe rear. Should I use the front bar and any ideas on shock settings to start? I know it will help immensely once I've taken a couple of rounds in it but I'd like to have it at least close to the ballpark. Thanks for any input.

If i remember my conversation with John @JCI correctly the 240 and 280 installs are different. They had to design a new LS1 trans mount for the 240. There was no way my T56 would have fit in the trans tunnel with those mounting points for the original trans mount in there. Steve

I had the bumper and my front airdam off also, with those parts off I could get all the way to the radiator core support. As for the Trans mounts I just did the install on a 72, I had the two bulges (for lack of a better word) spot welded to the trans tunnel, one on each side. The trans crossmember on my year mounted with one bolt each side to the bottom of these bulges. I have a spot weld drill but it wasn't worth trying to get them all drilled out on each of them, I just cut them off flush with a cut off wheel on my die grinder. I threw a picture of the tunnel after I was finished in my album. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4532&cat=500&page=1 I also have a john's car transmission mount I didn't use (took too long to get it) if you're interested. Steve