djz
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Posts posted by djz
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I'll have a dig around and see what I've got, I don't usually hang on to the badges. I might have a "Fairlady Z" one around somewhere too from an S130.
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They are common down in this part of the world, how many do you want?
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Mine doesn't have stock suspension but I'm running 17s. It depends on the wheel as to whether they look right or not but I think the S130s are big enough to suit 17s.
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I used Nord Lock washers on my car. I don't really see drilling the studs and nuts to lock wire them as being very practical.
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Yeap, that was going to be my next option, it's only a road car at the moment and our roads are still pretty rooted after the earthquakes so I was hoping to not stiffen it up much more than it already is, it's running 6Kg springs it in at the moment which is what comes with the S13 coilover kits, it looks like the proper S130 kits made by the likes of Ksport come with 7.5Kg springs for the rear.
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It's an S130 so the body is probably a different shape underneath, it's doing it on both sides to about the same extent as far as I can tell. The alignment specs were pretty much the same on both sides but that doesn't really matter as it doesn't take into account when the suspension is loaded up and things have moved etc
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I've got a bit of a problem with my car, it's lowered (not that low) and has Z31 5 stud hubs with 4x1 companion flanges in the rear, the problem I've got is under heavy acceleration the companion flanges are hitting on the body near the wheel arch.
The suspension is reasonably stiff - S13 coilovers, I've got some 3x2 companion flanges, but they are only about 5mm smaller on the outside diameter. Has anybody else had this problem and what was your solution? Cutting up the body isn't really an option.
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Is it an auto or manual?
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RB26s don't have hydraulic lifters.
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Hoses coming out of the filter mount will go to the filter block adaptor, they should be marked with something, can't remember what but my HKS kit is.
If not you might have to trace which port on the filter mount matches which port on the filter block adaptor, you've got a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong
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Which Z31 transmission? Have a look here and watch his other videos too:
The videos are by big-phil on here, he can probably help you.
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Don't think it's a front sump pan, they wouldn't put the drain bung right at the front.
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If I was going to do it again I'd probably use S13 or S14 adjustable bottom arms. Having the ball joint made and arms modified cost about $200. From memory the S13/14 arms are quite long compared with R30 arms.
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From memory the wheels are 17x9 front with 25mm spacers offset is around 30mm, rears are 17x10.8" with somewhere around a 0 offset.
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So dirty.
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I'm trying! Money keeps getting spent on other things, just bought this the other day as well, another RB powered ride. Hopefully the triple plate won't be too hard to drive, I've driven an R34 GTR before that had a twin or triple plate in it and stalled it, but I'm sure with practice it'll get easier.
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So I got a turbo beanie and heat wrapped the downpipe, these are some of the things I needed to do to get it legal.
Pretty much final ride height, got some 275/40/17 Nittos for the rear
Chopped up the manifold to try and fix the wastegate creep, I cut the two pipes off that go to the wastegate and ported where they join onto the runners, then I chopped where the two pipes merge quite far up and ran some 2" stainless pipe to the wastegate, this seems to have fixed the problem.
Brought a proper Tial BOV, still having a little bit of trouble getting a decent vacuum signal to it, it's a bit slow to go off. Still looking for a clutch, I've got my eye on a triple plate Tilton which should do the business. Installed some longer wheel studs in the back and got some fancy aluminium wheel nuts from my mate for naught.
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What are you trying to set the pressure to?
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I recently bought a gasket set here in New Zealand which is a Permaseal branded one, it had the first tensioner gasket I've ever seen it in - there's one problem though, it's not the full size of the tensioner so the oil gallery on the rear of the tensioner isn't surrounded.
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Is your thermostat opening? What do you mean the ECU shuts off? Is there a bleeder on the inlet manifold or near there somewhere, if you open that does water come out?
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Either get your torque wrench calibrated before you try again or borrow a known good torque wrench.
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What did you "torque" it down with? Also why are you changing/replacing so many gaskets when you are only removing the head?
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A 4wd RB25 auto trans would be quite uncommon, rear drive ones would be much much more common as they came out in more cars. 4WD ones would only really come out in R33 GTS-4s which are rare and Stageas.
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Just remember that once you get it off you are going to have to do it back up again, you'll need a bigish torque wrench to do it.
Exhaust porting? Worth it?
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
What a/r is your exhaust housing and is it a ball bearing turbo? 4k seems like a very late spool for a turbo that small.