djz
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Posts posted by djz
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I'm fairly certain I have seen "race cars" fitted with blow off valves before, or is this some change that has happened overnight?
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They came out all wheel drive in R32 GTS-4 also C33/C34 Laurels and A31 Cefiros too I think. Usually the non Skyline RB20DETs don't have blow off valves.
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So what did you do for the stater motor ?
Nigel
I'm using an RB30 flywheel on my L28 as well, using a normal Z reduction gear starter.
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What are you trying to achieve exactly? Get an optical L28 (turbo) dizzy and spindle and put the Z31 chopper wheel in it, I'm fairly certain no grinding is required unless you are wanting to make a cover to run it without the dizzy cap and rotor.
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Thanks Tony, I've added the return spring onto the cross bar, should it be preloaded at all?
I've shortened the throttle cable so I could adjust the quandrant to a nicer angle, it's working better now and doesn't have the huge effort off idle any more.
Also I've removed the extra springs I added and have changed the spring on each throttle body to a heavier one, it's returning better now but still not fully all the time, I get the feeling that one of the throttle shafts or plates must be sticking or something like that, I'm going to have to remove the plenum again and see if I can figure out which one it is.
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Hi guys, I've recently been installing a set of OER individual throttle bodies on to my L28, and I've got a problem where I can't get them to return fully, when you tap the throttle it will return back to about 1500+rpm until you pull back on the throttle shaft. Each TB has it's own return spring, and the throttle shaft has another spring as well.
I've taken the throttle shaft out and lubed all the rod ends, my manifold is unfortunately made for TBs/carbs that have the throttle linkages on the opposite sides to the OER ones so I've had to add another rod end on the thermostat housing, the shaft seems reasonably loose, it is pretty easily turned by hand with a little bit of resistance without the TBs connected.
I have tried adding extra springs which seemed to help but can't seem to find a position that works well, the springs either make the pedal too hard to push initially or the springs are bending in ways they shouldn't or touching on other things.
Has anybody fixed a similar problem to this? Do triple carbs have return springs on each carb? Would changing the length of the linkage from the main shaft to each TB make much difference? I just guessed a length when I made them.
Thanks!
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Are you sure the shafts are the same? I had HR31 turbo shafts in my car and they mounted to the companion flanges with 3 sets of 2 bolts and from memory have 3 ball bearings in the CVs? The Z31 turbo shafts I'm using now are the same as your pictures with 4 individual bolts and 5 bearing CVs.
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With an L series bellhousing on an RB box it's actually the same length as an L series box so you don't have to change driveshafts. You need to modify the mount though. I'm using a RB20DET box with L series bellhousing on my L28 turbo, factory S130 driveshaft.
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Is that head missing the exhaust port liner on cylinder 3 or is just dirty?
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Have you still got your Z? I remember it being on Trademe ages ago. My Z didn't originally have power steering, we swapped it over in probably about 2 hours. It's not too hard to do, getting the crossmember out is the hardest part.
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I'd probably look for something in a divided T04 flange with an a/r around the 0.8 kind of range, I'd say the 1.06 housing would be a bit laggy. My car is a 3.1L with a 0.70 undivided T04 housing and it makes full boost (1.1 bar) at about 4400rpm. So with a ball bearing turbo and a divided manifold/housing you should easily be making it under 4000.
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A stock SR20DET makes more torque than a stock RB20DET. But I'd definitely go with an RB25 over a 20.
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Cam timing is back to position 1 on the stock cam pulley, it's where it was for the last dyno tune. I tried position 3 before getting it tuned again and it seemed to loose a lot of power and was pinging slightly at high revs.
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I have to apologise to whoever I told that I couldn't put a bigger throttle body on the standard manifold, it was actually pretty easy. So I've now got a 62mm throttle body, a more ported inlet manifold and a cable throttle.
But after all of that and the 3" exhaust I'm now making 226.7kw (304hp), a gain of 15ish hp, not quite what I was expecting.
Any other ideas guys? Should I go back to a standard head and cam?
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Lots if not all of the older turbo Audis had external wastegates, but yeah 99% of factory turbo cars will have internal wastegates.
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Exhaust is all done - finally. Added a resonator in the middle and moved the flexi further forward, still louder than I would like but not too much I can do about it. We bent up a wastegate pipe at work and put that on too, it's kind of funny driving it on boost now, the wastegate makes no noise at all - bit of a change since it hasn't had a pipe on it since being turboed.
The backfiring problem seems to be fixed, we relearnt the boost controller today (bit naughty, you have to do 2 runs to the redline in 3rd gear which works out at about 160ks) and it's behaving now, very steady at 0.7 bar. It may have been pinging slightly on 1 bar. I'll have to try and get it back on the dyno next weekend.
I'm still worried about the cam timing, I really need to get an adjustable pulley. I changed the cam pulley from position 1 to position 3 after dynoing it last time and I think it gained power, I changed it back to position 1 last weekend. I have to play with it a bit more.
Any other advice before it goes back on the dyno would be much appreciated.
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His normal charge is $150 (the same as HiTech Performance) just for a couple of runs with no tuning, he spent probably about an hour playing with the tuning and charged me $225 all up which I thought was pretty good.
What computer will you be running on your car? How's it all going anyway? Pretty close to being able to be started?
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Took it for another drive, still backfiring when set at 1.0 bar, it appears it making 0.96+ bar when set at 0.7 so yeah, it needs to be relearned. Feels a lot more grunty off boost as well which is good.
Yup Soichi will be tuning it again if he can fit it in, he used to own one
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Took it for a quick drive before, it's definitely too loud I'm going to see how much it quietens down with the 2nd muffler connected but I'm pretty sure it's going to need a resonator. Sounds really nice as it is, but yeah just too loud.
Seems to have boost problems now which I'll have to have a look at sometime, I'm using an HKS EVC3 which I may have to "relearn". It runs fine and boosts 0.7 bar perfectly, pulls a lot harder than it used to but when the boost is turned up to 1.0 bar it gets up to 4500 - 5500 rpm and all of a sudden loses power and makes a really loud backfire/frontfire - I think it's spooling a lot faster than before and the EVC is confused and is slamming the wastegate open early?
I'll try and get the exhaust finished and boost control sorted this weekend and put it back on the dyno the weekend after.
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Long story but I haven't driven it yet, I sat in the passengers seat while my flatmate drove it, seems to come on boost a bit quicker and it definitely felt gruntier. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow night once I've got the missing stud sorted.
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We gave it a run with only 1 of the rear mufflers connected, it was pretty loud hopefully it'll quiet down a bit once the other one is connected. Might have to add a resonator in the middle as well.
Yeah I know there is a stud missing out of the turbo flange, the rear pipe is quite low and the tips aren't attached yet.
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New 3" mandrel bent exhaust is just about finished, my flatmate and I spent all weekend on it but it came out pretty good. I'll post some pictures of it here later on.
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The 280ZX companion flanges I took out of my car when I was going to Z31 axles had 3 sets of 2 bolts, the Z31 turbo companion flanges had 4 single bolts. I did put in Z31 stub axles as well, but if the splines are the same between the two it should be pretty easy to find something that will work.
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Hey man, thats the plan at the moment, I've got that spare manifold I took the photo off to cut the head flange/injector mounts off and I've got a new throttlebody, just have to get around to milling out the plate the runners will be welded on to and getting a plenum made up.
I'd just much rather be driving it that having it in pieces all the time, I only get to drive it on the weekend as it is. It's probably only got another 1 or 2 WOFs left before they start failing it on rust around the windscreen and in the roof.
200ZR RB20DET
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Thought you guys might like to see some pictures of the motor I just bought, it's an RB20DET from a 200ZR Z31. 63,000ks for $500NZD (~$350USD). Ceramic turbo power!
Haven't really decided what to do with it yet, I doubt it's capable of making much more power than my current L31 without spending $$.