POSTM

I have to agree with Grumpy go with the 4L80. I have built many 700r’s most of them for trucks. I would give a 30-day guaranty and cross my fingers for all 30 days and hope and pray I didn’t see them back. You can beef up a 700r but the first time the owner cranked the wheels to lock in 4-low and jab the throttle that trans is gone. The only thing I liked about the 700r was that I always had one to build they kept busy and well paid. The 4L80 in stock form can handle any abuse thrown its way and still come home under its own power and a lot of times it will be towing the truck with the 700r in it. I can’t say much about the 200r4 except that I have never built one (but it didn’t come in a truck). A friend of mine used to drag race with a th200 (3-speed) he liked them a lot; pretty beefy trans when you mix in some power glide parts. I can’t remember what he did to those 200’s it has been about 20 years since I worked with that guy. Chuck

Z31 ecu would be my choice, cheap bone yard parts. Its not all that hard to tune eccs. There is plenty of great software and evan greater people willing to help you. Thanks agian to all that helped me. Chuck

Z31 ECU $15, wiring harness $1 a foot at the local you pull it. Sorry I couldn’t help it. Chuck

We put a Corviar engine in a VW van. It was fun while it lasted, it could get the front wheels of the ground, but with insanely low gears and inability to rap still could just manage to hold 70mph. The speed limit was only 55mph then. Yes that belt did give us some problems. Any one remember the mid engine V-8 hybrid Coviar. I always wanted to find an automatic transaxle to make a VW drag racer. Thanks for posting that, sure brings back some memories. Chuck

When I go to the pick-n-pull, I pull the head with both manifold attached. Loosen cam bolt with a hammer on an open end wrench, remove exhaust, P/S pump, and idler cut water lines and wiring. Pull head bolts. Now you can get at all the manifold bolts. Takes me longer than 45 min but I’m old and slow. Chuck

I have pulled three MN-47 heads and have a Maxima motor in my Z. All of these MN-47 heads have an opening for mechanical Fuel pump that is blocked off with a plate. On the ZN-47 there is no hole in the casting. When you go to the pick-n-pull you would have to pull the valve cover or pull power steering pump to clearly see the difference. I have read that some of the early MN-47 heads have different combustion chambers, but I have not found one yet. And a bit off topic I would not recommend putting a Maxima motor in your Z even if you get it for free. It was a plumbing nightmare. Chuck

A local junkyard has the L28t for $300.00. There is also a 1981 280zxt in the yard it has wiring harness (some of it is cut) and ECU. $15.00 for ECU and $1.00 foot for wiring you pull. The engine is out and they claim it’s a runner.

When I worked in the transmission shop, I had red hair but I was blond before I started working on automatic trans. The Dawn would get out most of it but not that red dye.

That area of the pin bosses is exactly what I was talking about in my previuos post. Looks real good. From where you are at now it would take many hours of work for minimal weight loss, unless you sacrificed some longevity. I can’t wait to here how it runs.

Looks nice, but I think you could go a lot further. I was friends with old guy that used to race formula V (1200cc VW motor). When he lightened his stock pistons there was like ¼ of the piston left (those square corners on the under side were rounded off), and look at the Dodge Neon OE pins they are tapered inside and they felt a lot lighter to me. The formula V’s were always built after a race though. Let us know how they work out, pretty interesting.

I have an extra Nissan brand gasket that I could throw in as part trade on the GN I/C, (I’ll throw in a pan gasket to I don’t use them only RTV on the L6) But seriously I have not used exhaust gaskets on any motor since I was 18 years old and my boss chewed on my butt for using gaskets on a SBC. I also fixed many exhaust leaks by slipping the gaskets out and bolting the manifold back up (headers are a different story). Speeder knows what he’s doing. No gasket failure if there is no gasket.

I’m interested in the GNX intercooler. How much to ship to 81006. PM me about payment and shipping info.

KY is fine, When I drop a valve body I leave the drain pan under it and try to lower it down level so check balls dont drop into drain pan. I have lost my share of check balls but they come in many rebuild kits, so any trans shop has them or just PM me and I can send you some, just dont loose the larger one as I am out of those.

I have always used vaseline. One trans shop I worked for (the one with the TV commercials) would mix STP engine treatment with the Vaseline and use for assemble lube. Best advise I can give is to use good snapring pliers and if the vaseline is not thick enough to hold check balls put it in the freezer for a while.

I've used B&M kits in many GM trans and results are good. Most people I built trans for were not looking for performance, but if I could keep slippage to a minimum I could minmize come backs. I always shot for a seamless shift but very soft at light throttle.The information and parts B&M kit can be used in variety of ways, as to please any one from grandma to the full time racer. The key to longivity I found to be increased line preasure and close to minimum clearance in clutch packs, slippage = come back.Iff your engine revs while wating for 3rd up shift you probably have bad seal and/or worn clutches. This can be pin pointed by doing a preasure check, I would expect to see the preasure gage drop at the 2-3 upshift. I test with wheels off the ground, and use brake to apply load. A larger apply servo will increase aplied force,and with increased line preasure force is multiplied.For a firm 2-3 upshift I would do valve body mods and minumize clearance in direct clutch pack by adding a clutch plate if possible,I sometimes use thinner steals to acomidate an extra clutch. Having not worked on a Jatco trans in over 20 years I can only go by my experiace with other trans mostly TH700r4 (I love this trans it made me lots of money). This being sead the Jatco seems to be solid unit. Bernard you are one the right track and I would sure like to see those tech sheets from Keas and B&M.

They've sent me a rebuild tech sheet for holding up to 700hp. They have valve bodies for full manual shifting as well as transbrakes. He quoted me 1800 AU for a built tranny plus shipping. I can forward the tech sheets to you if you want to have it looked at by a shop. I also have a shift improver mod sheet that I can send over. Bernard, I've thought about this for a few days, and I may be able to help. A larger servo would help (like Corvett servo for th700r4). Also, getting as close to minimum clearence as possible in direct clutch pack. I never modded a jatco, but I've modded tons of TH 350, 700r4, and c4s. You can also play with the accumulators. Shorten springs, lenghten springs, spacers. If I had more information, I could give you some more direction. Could you send me the tech sheets? I'm also interested because I own a 280Z with an automatic.