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Tony D

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Tony D last won the day on January 13 2019

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About Tony D

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    Wiki D
  • Birthday September 26

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    Reno NV & Lucena Quezon, Philippines
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  1. I see the edit regarding drilling the carbs.... Are you meaning you enlarged the holes on the carbs to allow movement to accomodate both the pattern on the box, and the pattern on the manifold (basically made the holes bigger so you could jigger the carbs around to get the lined up and the fasteners to fit?) This has been a known issue for a time on the later boxes, don't know why they got funky on the hole drilling some fit some are quite a bit off. On the ITB's (which was really the design for these) some of the fuel rails interfere with the box and you need to spacer it out to fit, this makes for a great opportunity to fix it up permanently! What you do is bolt up the carbs to the manifold properly, and level, with proper hole centering on the studs. Lock them down. Then on the spacer plate you lay out your holes to they allign perfectly and fix them to the carbs using countersunk allen-headed screws. This fixes your carbs immovable, and allows you to synch them with the box off. Now, to attach the box to the plenum, my personal favorite is to use O-Rings on the holes and make some EASILY ACCESSIBLE M-8X1.25 or M-6X1.00 in a pattern around the edge of the spacer plate. Yeah, you're drilling into and HKS Box, and tapping it (and if you're smart, putting in Nutserts, roseann inserts, or keen-serts and installing long studs that allow you to pilot your surge tank onto the spacer plate and secure it with nuts and washers on teh backside of the spacer plate. I wish I had photos of what we did for the guy in UK but it worked treat and now he can drop the tank in 5 minutes without touching the carbs at all! putting the fasteners where you can GET to them makes bolting it up SO much easier! In fact, I'm considering a 375" thick spacer plate just to use O-Ring Static Seals and the studs on my HKS 45 ITB's. I don't have a clearance problem at all and the extra 10mm of the box won't be an issue either. Just some food for thought on another way to do it without hogging out the holes on the carbs. They really should be level and all in the same plane. I'd recommend you check your fuel levels per carb and check the float bowl for level barrel to barrel as if they are angled one barrel respective to the other in the same carb, the same jets will run richer in the lower barrel than the upper barrel and under boost when the differential pressure elevates the fuel in the jet wells that can really add headaches to getting cylinder-to-cylinder mix correct.
  2. Move your WB to 4-5-6 and see what it says in comparison... then move it downstream so it gets a whiff of all six!
  3. Banned from Fascistbook for a Homer Simpson Meme I DOWNLOADED from Fascistbook... Back three look rich compared to front three. Where is your FPR? I agree with JeffP that firing all injectors at once is a TERRIBLE idea! This will cause a serious drop in fuel rail pressure which will screw with the mix. Load sensing enrichment is better with manifold referenced FPR than static. He’s incorrect in terminology, that’s not a “rising rate”, that’s simply “manifold referenced 1:1”... a “rising rate” would increase it 1:2 or 1:3 etc meaning static is X pressure, 5# of boost is then X+10 or X+15 psi whereas a standard manifold reference would be X+5 psi, and at idle with 18”hg it would be X-9psi making your injectors variable capacity. Idle benefits by lower pressure because you use longer pw which makes resolution better for adjustability, and on WOT you run as a non-referenced unless you get to the point where the engine bottlenecks through the throat and it slightly leans out (like L-Series need past peaktorque anyway...) Mine ran like poop until I switched to alternating two pulses per cycle instead of single pulse simultaneous. Who says? MS Megamanual. Good enough creds there? I think that’s enough for a start, but something is grouped 123-456.
  4. Looks like his widow was taken in by someone she trusted in a Northeastern Z-Club who quickly flipped the car. That could be bitterness over seeing the sale price compared to what she sold the vehicle for 'inside the Z Community' to someone who said they would preserve and cherish it. Then flipped it instead. Sad.
  5. No sheared drive pin? Seen that more than I've seen a sheared woodruff key (?) or broken camshaft!
  6. This looks like a copy of the original SK "Air Governor" setup I installed back in 1983 with the SK Analog Fuel Computer! Good to see nothing changes! The SK's wouldn't idle at all when you closed the throttle plates and it was a very fine method indeed to get the plates open to allow 950 rpm idle... Ended up closing them altogether anyway and used the ports in the Mikuni Manifold as the idle air bypass port at idle through an 82/83 Idle Speed Control Screw refit for 1/4" tubing that went from the Surge Tank to the Manifold. One screw to set on the idle speed, and a simple solenoid bypass line from a Suzuki or Toyota EGR valve that allowed it to idle up when cold (like 1700)... That was on some thermal switch we found that closed electrically and opened the bypass below 160F... All the talk here about high idle on Jenvys corresponde to what I've seen on them as well--the bypass screws leak. You almost have to gob RTV over the jam nut and adjustment screw to make them hold the speed, and not introduce tramp air! Somewhat disappointing.
  7. I'd go the opposite. The Jenvey's I've seen have issues with leaking throttle bypass screws, and somewhat flimsy flanges on the front face... SK's however have been a known commodity since 1983 when I helped install my first set along with their 'air governor' idle bypass setup and analog fuel controller. The OER's are an effective copy of those early SK's save for a few improvements. They are properly die-cast as well, just like the OEM Carb Bodies were. Plus, I think the SK's may have a tip on exchange rate at this point.
  8. It will help move out stagnant water for sure! It will help till you can get the flow off the top of the combustion chambers proper. That big hose will give you plenty of recirculation, no need for the bypasses.
  9. New Stuff out of JDM has injector bungs in the runners, and a dual-pattern bolt pattern on the flange to take either a DCOE or utilize 45mm ITB Bodies from the plentiful RB26...
  10. Bosch made a small water pump for the Ford Lightning air-water intercooler. It should do you nicely. They're not expensive and unfortunately I don't have the PN that I ordered. And the box is in SoCal, 8,500 miles away right now. A quick check on eBay showed the GT500 also now uses the same independent intercooler water pump. Under $150, made for exactly what you want to do! You are doing with yours exactly what I did with mine: oil cooler, diff cooler, trans cooler. I have a second one that pumps iced water through a Vortech Air/Water Intercooler that subcools the inlet air charge after passing through the air/air intercooler up front. I've been happy with mine, I bought it right at the local Ford Dealer. Hard to beat OEM Quality Parts. I'd shy away from aftermarket Chinese Crap since the price on the original stuff is still more than reasonable! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Performance-M-8501-MSVT-Electric-Intercooler-Pump-GT500-Lightning-5-4/113721667816?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D59444%26meid%3D7e80d59124e04b82b84e11a329cb1716%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D220682073798%26itm%3D113721667816%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
  11. You're fine on that setup. The lines in the same direction on the turbo are actually correct, depending on what state the engine is... What size is your turbo cooling line? 10mm? or larger? I'd eliminate the external bypass straightaway, ESPECIALLY if you have larger than 10mm hoses through the turbo. If you are running 15mm hoses, I'd plug the internal bypass on the block (you can JB Weld in the entry hole in the front cover if you remove the water pump.) There is plenty of recirculation through the turbo to prevent cavitation and aid in warm-up with the turbo cooling line. As to my first statement "depending on engine state"- what you have is flow from the lower thermostat housing when the engine is running and thermostat is closed (this is why blocking the bypasses can be done--the turbo is now your bypass line.) Once the thermostat is opened, there is still more pressure at the lower housing of the thermostat than at the lower radiator hose, so you will get flow through the turbo. Once the engine is shut off though, what happens (and this is CRITICAL TO TURBO ANTI-COKING) is that the cooler water at the lower radiator hose is thermally siphoned through the turbo as it is heated and rises to the thermostat housing. This will continue as long as the center section adds heat to the water and the thermostat is open. This is why having a 2mm weep hole in the thermostat disc is important---if the engine cools and thermostat closed rapidly...the turbocharger has the potential to boil the coolant, and that weep hole would allow steam bubbles out...or if not turning to steam still allow the hot water rising off the thermal-siphon effect to rise up through the turbo and out to the radiator. As you have stated, the plug at the rear of the head is fine as it represents the same flow present when the heater core is shut off. Now, if you like, you COULD take that 15mm fitting and run a 1/2" hardline around the back of the engine to the lower thermostat housing directly. This will let water flow off the back of the head which is quite stagnant, and leads to detonation on L28ET's. There is of course the cooling mods you can do...but in a pinch, running that line aroudn to the thermostat housing to get some flow back there helps quite a bit in keeping temperature on the 5/6 cylinders in-line with what they should be...
  12. I've pumped 25psi through mine in my young and unenlightened years.... I made much more at much less later on!
  13. No-"Boost Tolerance" is solely a function of what size jet you can fit in the main and still run off-boost. Most advanced systems used AIC's for more fuel once that max jet size was reached. Both the SK and Mikuni used closed-cell foam floats and therefore were not subject to collapse. Webers, however, at the time used soldered brass floats which would collapse around 10psi. Now on a 'bolt it on' setup that would limit you in terms of horsepower, but if you were building the engine properly as in the JDM, the head would be gas-flowed, the cam aggressive, and 10psi would be well in excess of 450 RWHP. I saw a non-intercooled 8psi setup push out 308KW on a Bosch Dyno there...that's like 400+ RWHP!!! "Boost is merely an indication of Resistance to Flow!"
  14. ^^^^And yet ANOTHER three years to pull up a Print Ad that the Manga was using (note that is using SK/OER not Mikunis)
  15. "2: Do you have the correct length Factory bolt with factory thick washer? Washer is very important. Threads will bottom out in crank if you use the wrong washer. " ^^^^^This all day long! JeffP machined a Volvo Washer down - it was thick enough that it didn't "Bell out' when you torqued it. The crank pulley should be slightly proud of the crank snout, if you have pulled out the oil slinger...it will be closer! If that washer bells AT ALL it will contact the end of the crank and it's the same as it was bottoming on the threads: you are torquing something bound and the strain goes up without actually clamping anything. My comments on the above: Clean the threads with brake cleaner and use Locquic Primer N for the threadlocker. Loctite Blue 242/243 Schnell should be fine in this application, and you should also be using RC608 Cyndrical Parts Locker on the snout and key to hold the pulley from working back and forth and loosening the bolt. Loctite Red should be considered permanent, and heating the bolt with a torch should be required to remove it...if it comes out with red without torching the head to break down the bonding, your threads were oily in the first place. Used on clean threads and with Primer N no more than 4 drops (8cc's) of 242 should be MORE than enough to have you cursing and reaching for the torch to relax the 'removable' locker's bond to get it off! A Note here on "Cleaning the Threads" - use a BOTTOMING TAP and MAKE SURE all the threads in the crank are full depth as far into the snout as they can go to ease use of the longer bolts. I agree that buying a new bolt and proper washer is not expensive and is probably the best bet if you are having issues. I have a car where the guy got upset and put in this HUGE SPS Bolt into the nose of the crank. It's extreme, but it doesn't come loose. Thing is, he had a thin washer (guess what the problem ended up being!!!) Torque the bolt to the 75% Tensile Region Specification, no more than 85% tensile...this should keep you away from plastic elongation and allow re-use at least a couple of times (remember if using threadlocker properly, you will likely be torching the head of the bolt which isn't good for longevity!) I ESPECIALLY agree with another bolt (Use the KA24 bolt and washer if nothing else, and have it cut down to your needed length) if you have an ARA A/C Pulley added. The one they used in their kits WILL BOTTOM. If you have the crank out EVER...consider having the machine shop cut the woodruff keys into a single large key, and use standard key stock the FULL LENGTH of the crank snout. Seal it in with loctite, and a little RTV at the back to prevent oil leakage. I've seen guys with that slotted nose also fill the area under the washer with Loctite 598/Permatex Ultrablack as a leak stop as well. I haven't had issues if I seal the key. That full length key will SAVE your crank by greatly increasing the area that secures the pulley/damper should it come loose. This is common in the JDM since the 70's and I don't know why more in the USA don't do it.
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