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Tony D

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Tony D last won the day on January 13 2019

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About Tony D

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    Wiki D
  • Birthday September 26

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    Reno NV & Lucena Quezon, Philippines
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  1. Tony D

    9,000 rpm?

    Yep, you would be wrong. At least you're open to that idea. There is no reason whatsoever why an L28 isn't an 8,500-9,500 powerplant same as an L24. No "large bore" necessary, we were limited by class rules to no more than 3.0 and if anything we would have stroked it for power more than bore it. The L20A was pretty much capacity classed at 1998CC, needed stock bore and stroke on that one, and it went to well over 12,500 without any valvetrain issues whatsoever. The limitation is breathing ability of the head N/A moreso than anything in the bottom end. That's benchracing in the extreme. We built both the L28 and the L20A in a home garage in Clairmont, CA. The head work was farmed out, everything else save the balancing (which was done by Electronic Balancing in Long Beach, just down the road from the old Datsun Alley and with a nice view of the C17 taxing area at Long Beach Airport)... Fitting the pistons to the combustion chamber, pre-balancing weight matching, deburring, polishing or grinding internals, etc... all done at home with Sears Craftsman Tools and whatever I and Andy had kicking around our tool boxes.
  2. Tony D

    9,000 rpm?

    Sadly, before the Koreans hijacked my YouTube Channel, I had videos of us making runs at El Mirage where we shifted at 9,500, and 9,300 depending on the gearing or tire height. No titanium Retainers or Spring Caps, and we ran that engine to over 12,500 doing valvetrain stability tests without any issues whatsoever. An L24 will do it easier than an L28 or larger simply because you are limited on flow through the ports on the non-crossflow head (about 240-250cfm max) and that will cap your power peak realistically in the 8,700 rpm range. Been there, done that, got the videos to prove it. Got the land speed record plaques and jacket as well...
  3. Hey Tony is there a way I can contact you to discuss intake manifold runner taper for an LS motor please sir?

  4. For all this talk of OCD.... nobody has specified which mount they used cutting the urethane to match the nose of the R200. Whee! did a great writeup, photos, dimensions, etc.... but never said if he started with the 3-1108R or the 3-1158G! There's roughly an 8mm difference in height between the two and that looks to be what he cut in the arch when you take into account the bottom doubler strap is removed to make the ears fit "flat"! So there's the big question: Are you arching the 1108 or did you arc cut the 1158? Inquiring minds want to know!
  5. COVID-19 will make Facistbook go savage eating the young...and people will get bored at the nonsense... and flick back to see what's up. Hell, JeffP got with Cometic an had them make an all-new gasket to his specs!
  6. Have those cars sat out back for 20 years now? Damn, I guess they have!
  7. Interesting project I should try removing my Fairlady Z/ZX stickers! Yet another project with no time to do...
  8. I guess to be complete, the engine dynoed at 205RWHP at 8775 and would shift at 9300 from first to second, an at 9500 the rest of the way up. The speed we did at El Mirage was within 2 mph of when we started out with the L28 making only 217 at the rear wheels, so it appears a comparable and accurate pull. We used the same head from the L28 and had to heavily relieve the block to clear the valves. The combustion chamber was huge, and as a result we barely had 11:1 compression, if that. We had no issues running this engine in valvetrain stability testing to more than 12,500 rpms. We got protested by a dick with a Cosworth engine, which took us out of competition for 3 years. Sadly, you can't set a record on a rookie run, and we actually did that, but they spent their money to get 345HP in their 2L so pursuing it after that point was moot. The car was repurposed back to GT3 Spec (er...we raised the coil over height) and went on using it as a Track-Day Car at Willow Springs where it excelled running the L28 again. The engine may come back to me, Andy moved north and Dave has it for his kids... but I still have an S30 LSR Car courtesy of LVSALT (Gary Cole) here so I would like to run that prepped bottom end with some mods as a turbo engine in that car one day. I recently talked to Dave about it and we may work something out on the L20A Engine. Hung Vu is reproducing dashboards now, and RHD units are in the Pipeline. Fine him on Facistbook in Datsun Parts and Needs, Church of the L Series, Datsun Parts Group, etc... He's based out of SanFrancisco Bay Area, USA. Cheers! <EDIT> Oh yeah, the L20's had 38mm SU's not 40's and the early ones did come with the "Nissan 2000 OHC" valve covers. Very Late L-Gata had plastic valve covers for noise suppression and less heat transfer to the engine bay.
  9. I literally had to cut guys line in back when his car wouldn't make fuel pressure and the filler neck was sucked down FLAT. If the system is fully sealed without some sort of vacuum break or vent, you won't fill it fully, and as fuel sucks out of the tank running down the highway...you get lower and lower pressure blanketing the tank, to the point if you run long enough, that the tank goes into vacuum and you burn up the fuel pump or lose fuel pressure till you pop the gas cap.
  10. I see the edit regarding drilling the carbs.... Are you meaning you enlarged the holes on the carbs to allow movement to accomodate both the pattern on the box, and the pattern on the manifold (basically made the holes bigger so you could jigger the carbs around to get the lined up and the fasteners to fit?) This has been a known issue for a time on the later boxes, don't know why they got funky on the hole drilling some fit some are quite a bit off. On the ITB's (which was really the design for these) some of the fuel rails interfere with the box and you need to spacer it out to fit, this makes for a great opportunity to fix it up permanently! What you do is bolt up the carbs to the manifold properly, and level, with proper hole centering on the studs. Lock them down. Then on the spacer plate you lay out your holes to they allign perfectly and fix them to the carbs using countersunk allen-headed screws. This fixes your carbs immovable, and allows you to synch them with the box off. Now, to attach the box to the plenum, my personal favorite is to use O-Rings on the holes and make some EASILY ACCESSIBLE M-8X1.25 or M-6X1.00 in a pattern around the edge of the spacer plate. Yeah, you're drilling into and HKS Box, and tapping it (and if you're smart, putting in Nutserts, roseann inserts, or keen-serts and installing long studs that allow you to pilot your surge tank onto the spacer plate and secure it with nuts and washers on teh backside of the spacer plate. I wish I had photos of what we did for the guy in UK but it worked treat and now he can drop the tank in 5 minutes without touching the carbs at all! putting the fasteners where you can GET to them makes bolting it up SO much easier! In fact, I'm considering a 375" thick spacer plate just to use O-Ring Static Seals and the studs on my HKS 45 ITB's. I don't have a clearance problem at all and the extra 10mm of the box won't be an issue either. Just some food for thought on another way to do it without hogging out the holes on the carbs. They really should be level and all in the same plane. I'd recommend you check your fuel levels per carb and check the float bowl for level barrel to barrel as if they are angled one barrel respective to the other in the same carb, the same jets will run richer in the lower barrel than the upper barrel and under boost when the differential pressure elevates the fuel in the jet wells that can really add headaches to getting cylinder-to-cylinder mix correct.
  11. Move your WB to 4-5-6 and see what it says in comparison... then move it downstream so it gets a whiff of all six!
  12. Banned from Fascistbook for a Homer Simpson Meme I DOWNLOADED from Fascistbook... Back three look rich compared to front three. Where is your FPR? I agree with JeffP that firing all injectors at once is a TERRIBLE idea! This will cause a serious drop in fuel rail pressure which will screw with the mix. Load sensing enrichment is better with manifold referenced FPR than static. He’s incorrect in terminology, that’s not a “rising rate”, that’s simply “manifold referenced 1:1”... a “rising rate” would increase it 1:2 or 1:3 etc meaning static is X pressure, 5# of boost is then X+10 or X+15 psi whereas a standard manifold reference would be X+5 psi, and at idle with 18”hg it would be X-9psi making your injectors variable capacity. Idle benefits by lower pressure because you use longer pw which makes resolution better for adjustability, and on WOT you run as a non-referenced unless you get to the point where the engine bottlenecks through the throat and it slightly leans out (like L-Series need past peaktorque anyway...) Mine ran like poop until I switched to alternating two pulses per cycle instead of single pulse simultaneous. Who says? MS Megamanual. Good enough creds there? I think that’s enough for a start, but something is grouped 123-456.
  13. Looks like his widow was taken in by someone she trusted in a Northeastern Z-Club who quickly flipped the car. That could be bitterness over seeing the sale price compared to what she sold the vehicle for 'inside the Z Community' to someone who said they would preserve and cherish it. Then flipped it instead. Sad.
  14. No sheared drive pin? Seen that more than I've seen a sheared woodruff key (?) or broken camshaft!
  15. This looks like a copy of the original SK "Air Governor" setup I installed back in 1983 with the SK Analog Fuel Computer! Good to see nothing changes! The SK's wouldn't idle at all when you closed the throttle plates and it was a very fine method indeed to get the plates open to allow 950 rpm idle... Ended up closing them altogether anyway and used the ports in the Mikuni Manifold as the idle air bypass port at idle through an 82/83 Idle Speed Control Screw refit for 1/4" tubing that went from the Surge Tank to the Manifold. One screw to set on the idle speed, and a simple solenoid bypass line from a Suzuki or Toyota EGR valve that allowed it to idle up when cold (like 1700)... That was on some thermal switch we found that closed electrically and opened the bypass below 160F... All the talk here about high idle on Jenvys corresponde to what I've seen on them as well--the bypass screws leak. You almost have to gob RTV over the jam nut and adjustment screw to make them hold the speed, and not introduce tramp air! Somewhat disappointing.
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