[clutch install not working!!]

Look at the procedure for setting up the clutch pedal in your service manual.

 

I had similar problems after reassembling my 1972 a few years back. It turns out that the clutch pedal and the master cylinder rod were not set up correctly....following factory procedures for setting the clearances and pedal height worked like a charm..... as far as the machine shop saying the "resurfacing" was done incorrectly is total B.S.... I have heard this far too often from mechanics who simply did not want to admit they never had a clue how to set pedal height or free play by factory specs.

 

99.999999999999999% of these clutch problems are caused by half ***, ignorant attempts to set up the pedal height and free play in the system.

 

BUY A SERVICE MANUAL......and demand that it is followed to the letter by your mechanic.

[Improving the wiper motor]

edit: ok already covered

[240Z crank case evacuation system ideas.?]

I installed the crankcase evac kit that Mr gasket offers....there is a Moroso kit for twice the money. They are one way valves mounted on an angle cut tube welded into the header collector. They create vacume by venturi effect from exhaust gasses rushing through the collector pipe.

 

I got 2 of the check valves in the kit...I had to replace the first one mounted 3inches off the pipe after only a few thousand miles....I added thinwall tubing and some flare adaptors to place the check valve up high away from heat....The second valve has lasted for 5000 miles soo far and has no signs of quitting.

 

I am currently using the original "flow control valve" mounted on the left inner fender of my 240Z....this valve is a 2 stage relief valve for crankcase vacume.

 

I have the exhaust evac. tube pulling on the top valve cover vent. The PCV valve is connected as usual to the lower crankcase vent...I added one of the oil separators that came in the evac kit to the lower crankcase vent with a 90degree elbow soo that it sits level and drains back into the crankcase.

I am routing the small nipple on the lower crankcase vent to the "flow control valve" in the stock configuration.

 

The reason I am using the stock vent system is that it provides a vacume relief for the crankcase. It works in 2 stages...first it pulls vacume on the fuel tank...as vacume builds in the tank the second stage opens and draws air from the atmosphere.

 

Soo far I have no problems...except the darn thing pulls too much air....I am afraid It is going to cause fuel pump problems with anything but a brand new pump. I can hear and feel air rush IN the tank when I pull off the gas cap with the engine running at high idle.

 

The system worked fine with my old restrictive muffler....2.5" exhaust and the muffler had a 1.5" restrictor tube buried inside...I recently added a Dynomax "turbo" muffler with no restrictor. Now the crankcase vent system is really pulling a lot of air. In fact the "flow control valve" cannot flow that much air...at full throttle vacume builds slowly until you let off the pedal.

 

Keep in mind that none of this affects the Manifold vacume...only the crankcase side is affected.

I am considering adding a oil separator tank with baffles and a drainback system that combines the various vents and plumbing to one location.

I would like to provide a way to "flow" fresh filtered air through the crankcase while maintaining a slight vacume in the crankcase. The current system pulls on both ends of the block and only allows air from the outside through the highly restrictive "flow control valve" (into the lower crankcase vent).

I would also like to combine manifold and crankcase vacume(with check valves) in a resivoir to aid the brake booster servo...the cam I am using provides very poor vacume at idle...hard brakes can surprise me in slow traffic sometimes. The brake booster only stores enough for 2 or 3 pushes on the pedal. I would like more reserve.

 

Any ideas would be welcome.

[Where to go from here (chasis stiffening)]

I noticed your pic of the header collector....I installed the same crankcase evac tube in my collector....

 

I got 2 of the check valves in the kit...I had to replace the first one mounted like yours after only a few thousand miles....I added thinwall tubing and some flare adaptors to place the check valve up high away from heat....The second valve has lasted for 5000 miles soo far and has no signs of quitting.

 

I am insterested in how you intend to plumb your evac system... I am on generation 2 and I need to move on to gen 3 plumbing.

 

I am currently using the original "flow control valve" mounted on the left inner fender of my 240Z....this valve is a 2 stage relief valve for crankcase vacume.

[Installing lowering springs and running into problems.]

I ran into the same problem when adding a rear swaybar to my 240Z... I used a rear mounted swaybar that pivoted off the rear crossbrace behind the diff.

 

For starters...you really have to get the brackets as high as you can to clear the drive shaft under full compression....And I had to cut the end link spacers to 2 different lengths to compensate for one control arm being convex and the other being concave...about an inch difference.....

 

Like a dummy I tried to measure the difference and cut the spacers different by the thickness of the control arms...Well...that ended up wrong... second attempt was done by trial and error with the car on its wheels and the endinks measured to fit the car as it sat level.

[The Next Motor: 83' L28ET]

123MPH to stock redline on 205/50/15Z Azenis..The speedo will read 140 @redline ....I think it could get a little higher with larger wheels. It does not need to go any faster...even at track events.

[The Next Motor: 83' L28ET]

I have installed several camshaft kits...pain in the ass...you really have a lot of time waiting for more lash pads to come in the mail I have a collection of various thickness lash pads now....The cam kits work well on a high reving high compression engine...they just make low comp motors sound cool and idle poorly. I have no idea whether a cam kit would help a Turbo L-6..I think not..the turbo will just blow half your charge out the exhaust during the overlap.

 

I have heard that the P90 hydraulic head are not well supported for parts.

 

I have heard that the Borg Warner trannys are not supported for parts.

 

I would not coat the inside of the intake manifold..It is bbound to come off sometime and ruin you motor.

 

The stock valvetrain is fine I think...you don't need to rev past 7000RPM with the Turbo. You can lighten the rockers and get stainless valves and aluminum keepers if you really want to see 8k on the tach.

 

I have a BSP prepped 240Z...I wind it out to 7k all the time. It pulls hard to 6500...and gradually falls off. I had it well balanced and used all Nissan parts. I have a mild cam installed with stock lift. I am using the original R180 diffs...I like the low ratios for track events...they seem to hold up fine for me. I rebuilt one and installed Phantom Slip traction plates. They are a dime a dozen and I like that... I am using the "B' 4 speed tranny... I love the 4 speeds because they are a dime a dozen...but they have not failed me yet...I ended up with 3 extras for free.

[240sx pistons in an L28?]

I came within a hair of buying a set of KA-24 flat tops for my current project L-28/E-31/SUs...

with a standard L-28 crank the compession was acceptable...but the piston would be almost 2mm below deck with the longer 240 rods...no squish effect..

I have 2 sets of L-24 rods and I was willing to bastardize 2 engines...l28 and l24....

I think I am just going to slap the cammed E-31-(with big valves) on the 1mm oversize flattop L28....I can get away with pump gas I am pretty sure...

[wiring - quick question]

You can trust the quality of most of the amp install kits. The red and black power wires are vinyl insulated and hold up well under extreme conditions.

 

The superfat speaker wire with the clear insulation is not rated for UV, oil, or high temp. Do not use speaker wire.

 

A good alternative is low voltage direct burial landscape lighting cable. It is very tough and it is chemical resistant too.

 

Always use multi-strand wires for you automotive needs, stay far far away from natural insulation compounds and silicone insulation. It has a tendancy to split and crack after a few years.

 

Always place a fuse on the battery end of ANY WIRE YOU ADD.....DO NOT EVEN MOCK IT UP until you have a fuse block installed.