johnc
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Posts posted by johnc
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Looking for 6 of these units with any of the ratios listed above. Open diff is fine, CLSD is fine. I only want those ratios, no 3:54s, no 3.90s, etc. Let me know location and price please. Thanks.
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Kinetic/Sunbelt in Sugar Hill, GA.
http://www.kssmotorsports.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=218&Itemid=211
Listen to what Jim tells you.
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As mentioned above, the SCCA Improved Touring rules require stock engine internals, cam, valvetrain, etc. There is no value in doing IT specific tuning to an engine that is not limited by the IT ruleset. Its A LOT of work for a minor gain in horsepower. You can get all of that and a lot more with the aftermarket cam mentioned by Tony above and by installing a Megasquirt EMS.
All that being said, the best SCCA Improved Touring L24 engine I know of made 208hp on a SAE certified/correct engine dyno. That engine won the ARRC two years in a row. To have that engine built today expect to pay about $8,000. You can have an engine built using aftermarket parts that matches it in horsepower for about $3,500.
FYI... The 280Z is not, and never was, competitive in ITS due to the weight required and you can pull more horsepower out of an IT spec L24 then an IT spec L28 because of the rpm you can spin the L24.
Also, the tricks mention in the first post are correct and IT legal except the timing was generally run at 36 degrees all in by 3,200 rpm with a straight line advance (no curve). Vacuum advance blocked off and advance plate welded.
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The kit comes complete with everything you need for the install.
What about this sentence don't you understand?
I will give you one tip, for the front bar mounts on the frame, put a washer between the "U" shaped clamp and the frame when you bolt things up to keep from binding the bar when you tighten the 8mm bolts.
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Get the FSM for your car and yes you can swap the pump without touching the pan.
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The 240 kit won't work on a 280 because the differential (r180 vs r200) if different therfor the rear bar will be different. Fronts should be the same.
Damn! And I've been installing the 240Z kit on the back of 280Zs for 10+ years in error.
Guys, the ST 240Z anti-roll bar kit is pretty much ideal for any street driven S30. It fits on the 240, 260, and 280 and the rear bar installation is a better design then the stock bar setup, especially for a lowered S30. The kit comes complete with everything you need for the install.
Here's a pic of the ST rear bar installed in a 240Z with a R200, CVs, MM LCAs, MM brakes, BM strut kit, etc. The new ST bars are black or dark gray, not green.
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Bushings are generally replaceable. I've never done it myself (just sourced a rebuilt caliper) and the big issue will be getting the old bushings out. You might be able to bore the hole oversize and then install a bushing with the correct ID. You can source bushings from http://www.mcmaster.com
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As a seller he can ask whatever price he wants for his parts. If someone is willing to pay his asking price, its not at all ridiculous. If no one buys it the part, its overpriced. His sales pitch is designed for the non-car person.
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Care to elaborate though?
Its all been posted here by myself and others over the decade this site has been around. A lot of searching in the Suspenion FAQ should help with the understanding.
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Your logic is flawed.
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If the shock is the Koni 8610 then you should have 2.5 turns from full soft to full hard. You should be .5 to 1 turn off full soft for those spring rates if the shock is a 8610. How much bump travel before you hit the bump stops?
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You need to go R200 for that power level.
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Where is the adjustment on the Konis? How many turns out from full soft? If you have 250lb/in springs on all four corner you might be getting some pitch oscillation. Try upping the front spring rate to 275.
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If someone installed the anti-roll bar so it was preloaded or asymmetrically loaded then it could have some affect on braking. But a properly installed anti-roll bar will have no effect on braking unless the braking area is very bumpy.
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The stock EVAP system on the S30 is a good thing. If you have the parts, it would be worth your time to put it all back on the car.
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No. No. Yes. You already are.
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Its not your diff.
Every spin except the second was driver induced - you're over driving the car based on the conditions and your suspension setup. The second spin was caused by the bump in the turn. Your car appears to have very little bump travel and not enough rebound control for the springs. It just kinda hops around and this hopping unloads the rear suspension just when you're applying power. You also have an under steer problem that causes snap over steer. When the front plows you lift which transfers weight forward, this loads the front wheels which gain grip and start turn in the direction the wheel is pointed just when the rear gets unloaded and then breaks loose.
Essentially your car is under damped and have you have a front grip problem (under steer). -
Your coilovers probably came from John Coffey, definitely not me.
Adjusting the control arms for camber is a bit tricky because of the tie rod length issue. There have been some threads on that in the past, and bjhines and I made our own tie rods with 5/8" rod end outers. You could do the same or get camber plates for the top to get the camber you want without running out of steering arm length.
Here is another article on DIY alignments. Obviously the adjustments are not the same on a Miata, but it tells you how to set up the strings: http://www.quadesl.com/miata_alignment.html
I have a related question: caster is checked by measuring camber and then moving the wheels x degrees and checking camber again, and then doing some math to figure out the caster setting. In theory though, the caster angle on a Z is just the angle of the strut tube fore/aft, because the top of the strut is one of the determinants and the ball joint which is directly under the strut is the other. So wouldn't it be possible just to stick an angle finder on the strut tube and take that measurement directly instead of having to figure out how many degrees you turned the wheel? Seems like it should be more repeatable and easier for the at home alignment, if it works...
I don't think the numbers are an exact match but if you get the caster numbers from a correct alignment you can measure the strut tube as mentioned above and use those numbers as a relative reference.
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How did a guy in NY find our little secret source of salvage Datsuns? Bastard!
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Hey John... It seems like we've burned up our subie diff... Whats the best way to rebuild or shim the thing to get it back into spec?
Sorry for the thread hijack... at least its on the same topic.
Its a regular CLSD (I assume) so most diff shops can rebuild it. Parts are available from Subaru. Then add a diff cooler and change the fluid regularly.
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You don't even need the whole halfshaft. You just need the four bolt flange that connect to the u-joint.
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There are number of "legit" answers to the vague questions asked. You may not like the answers but they are correct.
And yes, the Koni inserts can be removed and refreshed/revalved by Koni.
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Install a bangin' stereo and crank it up. That will fix all the squeaks, rattles, etc. Otherwise, you're in the same boat as the rest of us - trying to make a 40+ year old car meet our current NVH expectations.
Intake modification
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Works great for a Coyote motor hybrid swap. Junk for anything else.