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You really need the book, you will save the $ by not buying the wrong parts. My drawers are full of receipts for my project what I thought would cost 3K is at 8K and growing and there is no paint or body work done with the exception of the engine bay. You can do it cheeper but the basic parts will still be required. The mounts are not welded in. Good luck

I'd be interested also, I put the rectangle edelbrocks on mine too, both sides. Never heard that before.

"Jerry rigged" hahahaha thanks!! that brought memories back, it was my dads favorite saying and I miss hearing it. Yes you need good grounding which it sounds you don't have and yes you need your own battery. Thanks again and good luck.

I have the 290 hp crate motor from GM. For me it was the simplicity and cost. I paid $1400 out the door plus tax. Several routes you can take as you can tell from above. As far as the Lingenfelter goes, you ought to see his parking lot of projects! My god if that isn't inspiration I don't know what is. Vetts, Vipers, H2's, Jags.......and not a one is slow!

Good point on the TC rods being tight. I had the entire suspension off ( a couple of times) I may have missed that. Also far as the center caps. My konigs came with the caps.

The 195/60/15's fit fine on the front no rubbing at all. The car is lowered and they fill up the wheel opening well. Exhaust is next... I purchased the rims from DISCOUNT TIRE here in Ft Wayne, In. They were $100 each with shipping and tax it was $454. It only took 2 weeks to get them in. Nice Guys to deal with. And yes they do look 10 times better in person......

Im going to the tire place I got the rims and tires from, They have treated me well and I hope they will swap my 205's for some 195's for the front. I hate having different size tires on a car. But im with you im not modifying the fenders. I want this to look all stock except for the small V8 emblem on the side.

Just put my Rewinds on with Yokahama 205/60/15' and the SOB's rub on the lower turn signal valance! I put the Tokico HP struts and springs on. God I cant beleive they rub and I was going to go with 215's. Now what to do.........

I purchased the JTR kit parts seperatly. I found one of their radiators on ebay and it was like new for 1/2 the price. Same with the Aluminum spacers and oil pressure setup. I made my own brackets that go between the frame rails and front suspension (lowering blocks). You can break up the cost as you will not need all the components at once. You can spread out your costs so they don't hit you all at one time. Far as other things....Oh Yeah! you will need other things. Bowtie Overdrives makes a sweet transmission line cooling hose to the radiator as well as the lock up wiring for the torque converter. I have my motor (new GM crate) all in and running. I just am waiting (6 weeks) for the rims to arrive, It has been on jack stands for 1 1/2 years. Headers, I bought some ceramic coated block hugger from ebay for under $125 Im very happy with them. Summit Racing also built a new complex with the money I have spent with them so far. No complaints though I enjoy the project. Have fun!

Well finally! I have been watching and reading. Embarrassing, maybe, but we have all been there at one time or the other. I put my front ball joints on the wrong side of the A arm. Took me several hours of why the steering would only turn 2 or 3 inches. duh! Now on to the next thing right? Congrats!!

Or it could be that I had the wrong count on the starter gear, I had the 9 tooth gear starter for the 153 tooth fly wheel and not the 11 tooth starter. The only used part I bought for the project and it bit me in the @$$. Live and learn I guess.

Finally today I started the car for the first time, and first attempt it fired right up, the problem being the starter will not disengage, I have tried shimming, I put a new ignition switch (key assembly) in because the old one was very sloppy. and still the starter is just spinning for all its worth. The motor is a new GM crate, new (flywheel 153 tooth). Geez... there were no leaks no sparks and no surprises. However the starter (9 tooth) came from the bone yard and it fires up just fine it looks to be #6 of the JTR book. Its not a gear reduction but it clears everything and tested out fine. Is there something about the gear reduction that would change this? I have checked all the wiring from the diagram and I seem to be right on track. The car is a 72. Help........I have serached but am still no closer to solving the problem. I want to hear that motor with out the gawd awful noise.....Thanks

Good timing, I just finished mine about an hour ago, I removed the pedal assembly from the car and cut off the last inch where the ball was. I then welded a rectangle piece on the end with a hole big enough to fit the Monte Carlo cable through, also you need to cut a hack saw's width from the outer edge to the new hole to slide the cable through. I then mounted it back in the car and hooked it up to the cable. The arm needed a slight bend put into it to bring the pedal back to normal position. Worked very well and cost nothing. Just scrap lying around. a little bit of grinding and wire wheel and walla one more small thing off my list.

Check your grounds, if you have painted everything like most during the build up you may not be getting a good ground. Start with the obvious too, battery fully charged and good connections on the posts. May sound silly but it is usually the obvious..I wish you luck

Thanks GrayZee, I just did that with a test light. Im good to go! Only thing remaining now is to run the fuel line. I appreciate the help