larsz

After talking with the SDS rep. It was pin pointed to the sync magnet not seen when the motor was hot. I had to re-align the hall sensor so that it would fire up. Walla , it starts now all the time!

Alright Warren, I will try to do what you are suggesting. I also called SDS & they said it might be also a problem with the ECU . I have to call them with the serial number. They apparantly have an update for the unit. The tech also thought it could be the coil packs but they seem to check out okay. Thanks for your assistance.

Well when it had the stock electronics , it never did this. But when I put in the SDS unit it just did it all the time. I will try to change the values & maybe re-check the timing too.

I have the SDS unit EM6F fuel & spark with the L-28ET .This symptom only happens when the engine is hot & sits for a few minutes after running. It makes a loud backfire pop out the exhaust & won't start right away until it cools down a bit. It took almost 5 minutes before I could get the car to start again & a lot of backfiring in between like gun shots. After it starts up it runs fine. The plugs look okay. Any advice here? Thanks.

I am getting ready to install one in my 71 240 turbo. Just waiting on Pallnet to make me the SDS crank trigger bracket for the hall sensor. It is currently running on stock 77 electronics with a Vortec FMU. All the engine wiring harness is coming off, distributor , AFM, old ecu , & old transisitor box module. The crank pulley then will be pulled out & drilled for the magnets. I have to solder in the resistor packs for the injector wiring harness & try to figure out how to wire the 240 sx throttle body & the rest of the sensors. I already have a mechanical oil pressure guage but still have to wire in the 280 tach & run a new wire to the stock water temp guage & sender. I will post again as soon as I get it started.

The wheels are on ebay right now for $695 buy it now with shipping. Item number 8005349571 . They are chrome 4 on 4.5 for the early z cars & the very early Mustangs 65-67 6cylinder. It has a 62mm hub bore that can be removed to a 76mm hub bore. It is + 12mm offset & 4.95 backspacing.

Has anyone tried the early 4 hole by 4.5 new chrome Mustang Cobra wheels 17x8 with 4.95 backspacing sold on ebay ? I have the zg flares & with tokico lowering springs. I need to know which spacer to use & if it needs to be hub centric?

After reading all of the archives in all of the Z car forums , the culprit was the bccd! It was letting air into the tb from the inside. I just hooked up the wire lead at the bottom to a positive source & walla the idle came down to normal & I was able to adjust it! I will end plugging the hole inside or just taking it off & blocking the bottom of the tb or just going to a larger tb without a bccd.

I just did the L-28 turbo transplant into my 71 z with 77 n/a wiring & electronics. Runs a bit rich with the turbo injectors. I used an aftermarket fuel pump MSD but you could also use the factory turbo unit.

I just got this 71 project running with 77 electronics & wiring , new turbo injectors & a t-04 turbo. It just won't idle down to 800 rpm. It stays around 1400 rpm when warmed up. All the aar & egr stuff is removed & plugged up ( no cold start injector). All the boots are sealing properly & the idle speed screw is all the way in. It has a hard time idling when motor is cold. What could be the culprit (afm, sensors, ecu or t.b.)? Anyone out there have any good suggestions?