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Hey guys, first real post on Hybridz but I've been here a while. This is in my opinion a fairly huge build, and seeing as I am a full time Mechanical Engineering student at Conestoga and work part time at RONA, there is no set deadline on this build (low budget per pay etc, working on it one day a week.), but in the end it will be minty fresh Soo, this build started as an 1990 SOHC 240SX hatch, KA24Power's old car. Probably should not have sold this car, but I wouldnt have an S30 if i didn't lol. I sold that to Kollo (who is building it now), and bought a black 1995 Zenki 240 off Simplemind7. The S14 was f*cked. It looked fairly clean underneath - but that turned out to be massive amounts of bondo, fiberglass, hot glue gun sticks, drywall mesh tape, cardboard, hockey tape and duck tape used to fix anything wrong with it :/: The floor was soggy. I've never seen anything like it. The floor was solid at the frame rail joint, but the floor folded down around the frame at least an inch at the greatest movement. Wasn't rusted out or anything, just... soggy. (NOTE: I am in no way blaming Brendan for doing these things to it - I know thats not his style - whoever did do this however deserves a punch in the ovaries). Fenders and front bumper were held on with self tapping zinc plated screws.. My entire direction for this build changed in the past 3 days. Friday night an idea came upon me, and I researched. Saturday night I went and took a look at a disassembled car and put a deposit down. Sunday night, much thanks to a few guys helping me out huge (David, Ben and John), I picked up said disassembled car and brought it to my shop. I picked up an entire 1973 240Z, in parts, for a extremely good price. Don't mind the surface rust on the frame rail - they're 100x more solid than any S13 rail I've seen lol. Looks half decent with some Blitz Type 03's.. Spent some money on these that probably shouldve been spent on the Datsun lol. Oh well. Green XJ daily - then S13 daily - now red WJ daily - getting 3" IRO lift very soon. Due to various reasons, left my shop in Tavistock (~2000 sqft) and crammed everything into my garage (~200 sq ft) FML. Space is a little tight. Working @ Rona part time has its benefits i.e. 1.25" thick melamine workbench for ~$5. I'll miss the shop mascot though. Figured it was time for a legit rotisserie - Stripped all paint off the car, as well as up to 3/8" thick of bondo off the roof and rear quarters even though the metal on the roof was perfect, and it looked as though they tried to reshape the contours of the rear for no particular reason. Used stripper, sandblaster as well as blowtorch and scraper. Primered it, and will get little spot touch ups when time comes for paint. I'm set for fuel, cams, efan, fidanza, 5 bolt had to be removed from R34 GTR knuckle so I can use the Z32 big spline 5 lug. It appears as though the GTR knuckle is an aluminum version of the S14 which would eliminate the issue of coilovers for you guys that upgrade to Z32 uprights and need to switch bottom mounts. Step 1: 3 Jackstands, 36mm socket and a BFH. Step 2: Booya. Z32 Big Spline 5 Lug, S14 Front spindles, FLCA. Bushing on the FLCA had to be ground down 1/16" to fit the S30 Subframe.. Garrett GT3076R 0.60 A/R - Super Legit Paperweight. Z33 VQ35 6 Speed Vs. KA A little bit of the dirty work. The name of the paint stripper is true.. As are the warning symbols :| Second pic shows one coat of stripper left on for 10 minutes which was wiped off and then a coat of easy off to degrease. Works wonders. Started cleaning up / primering parts while my money is tied up in school. That way when I buy all the remaining parts I can assemble **** without waiting around on cleaning em Also, started to measure & design my build in Solidworks. Have the 5 lug, Q45 output shafts, Brake rotors, as well as starting on engine. For dreaming purposes the KA crank is fully balanced, but i'll be changing it to realism someday.. Picked up a new cowl piece - thx JP. This probably shouldn't have been used as a amp ground wire.. A buddy hooked me up with a E36 M3 Dash, centre console, glovebox, trim etc. (Picture not of mine). Will need a tiny bit of trimming obviously, but is almost the same curve and width as S30. E46 M3 Cluster looks alot nicer, so i'll probably end up going for it. If someone wants a FG S30 replica to start off of you can have it for a doubledouble . The black 240z has a roughly similar end product as what I want, however mine will be a fair bit wider. Talks with Weirtech about a cage for the Z similar to this, but with a few adjusments to meet spec here: **These are not my pics. If they are yours and would like me to take them down, just say the word. Good news is that I bought a ZEDD Findings floor kit which is perfect as I am lifting the floors 1 3/4" to 2", as they sit below the rockers, and would scrape like nobody's business. I need to fab up my own GTR subframe mount and will probably make my own floor rails as the ZEDD findings ones are just bent 18ga sheet. After major components are fabbed up, I will take the car on rotisserie to nearest Rhinoliner and spray the entire bottom - stiffens the hell out of it, sound deadens, as well as the obvious rust proofing bonus.. I am also researching some form of skid plate to protect a Xcessive Manufacturing/Greddy sump oilpan from gnarly speedbumps. My new friend. Most importantly, you have to have the gf who puts up with all your car addiction bs MOD LIST (Updated Jan 31/11) ENGINE/TRANSMISSION HAVE - S14 KA24DE - Fidanza 9lb KA flywheel - Z33 6MT Transmission w/ CNC VQ35 shifter linkage - Garrett GT3076R 0.60 A/R Turbocharger - Brian Crower Cams Stage 2 - TII FC3S 550cc top mount injectors - LS2 Coilpacks w/ Pigtails - Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump, Regulator, 100 micron filter, all black SS braided lines/AN fittings. - Taurus 3.8 E-Fan - HKS Turbo Timer - Nissan Quest Alternator - KA-E parts req'd for PS Delete. - SR20 pulley kit ( accessories fits KA ) NEED - Head port/polish work done by me, decked, tanked - VQ35 Tranny adaptor CNC designed/milled by me - Block bored to 90mm, decked, hottanked - Pauter Rods - Arias 8.8 Oversize Pistons - Gato Performance Intake Manifold ($$$ ) - BC overbore intake and exhaust valves - BC titanium dual spring/retainer - AEM EMS w/ 72" race harness OR Megasquirt III - Debating... - Koyo/Mishimoto Rad - Cometic MLS HG - KA Starter - Turbo Mani & Downpipe of some kind - Probably Weirtech. - Machine work - polish and bullnose crank - Money CHASSIS/SUSPENSION/BRAKES HAVE - McKinney KA->S30 Mount kit - FC3S TII Depowered Steering Rack - SPL Tie Rod Ends - S14 steering column - S14 Front Subframe (Sandblasted) - S14 FLCA, Spindles - S30 Front Subframe (Making S14 FLCA work with this.) - R34 GTR rear subframe w/ axles, multilink & 5 lug hubs - Nismo GTR RLCA - 3.538 Q45 VLSD, Z32TT Axle & big spline 5 Lug rear hubs. - S14 Silvia front hubs with ARP Extended Studs NEED - Z32 Rear Brake Setup (in the works from EvilTom) - Custom 1 piece driveshaft - STI/Evo 8 Brakes or GTR33 Brakes - Tilton pedal setup with internally hung brake and clutch masters - Poly bushing set - Cage – Weld in with removable door bars because it’s still a street car. Waiting for Weirtech's business to slow down enough to fit me in - CNC Hydro Ebrake - Money EXTERIOR HAVE - Fiberglass S30 "Superwide" ZG Flares (Needed the wides to tuck the +150mm track of the GTR subframe and +120mm track of S14 arms) - OEM Hood, doors, hatch, all glass, trim and lights. - ZEDD Findings Floor Kit - ZEDD Findings Front Frame Rail Kit NEED - Fabricate LED tails, HID headlights - BRE Spoiler - 17"x10 rear, 17x9 front CCW Classics - Paint - will be sprayed by me, GF bought me a sick paint setup love you. - Money INTERIOR HAVE - E36 Black M3 Dash, Glovebox, Centre console, trims - S30 FG Dash first layer done, no longer using if someone wants it. - NRG Evo Black Steering Wheel NEED - Recaro Seats - E36 door panels to take a FG mold from, retrofitted to S30 door. - Molded S30 Carpet - Molded S30 Headliner - Carputer setup w/ EMS control. - Money

I would give you beers for a copy of this I just started my own 3DCAD model as I'm designing my own cage as well as a mount for my R34 GTR rear subframe mount. If you want to send it to aliptayfischer (at) gmail (dot) com that'd be awesome of you When I'm done mine I will post up for anyone to use for themselves.

You pretty much summed up TigerJap. I live in Kitchener (1 hour from TigerJapanese warehouse), and have gone there to pick up an engine for a friend. He needed a KL-ZE motor for a Probe GT swap, and when I got there I was told I had to buy a motor before I was allowed to go pick one out. Finally said OK because they apparently had >50 in stock... I went into the warehouse and there were mountains of engines. Honda B18's in one corner stacked 6 high with a piece of 1/4" hardboard between each layer. I asked the warehouse manager where the KLZE's are and he yelled at me in asian until one of the workers came over. I asked again where the KLZE's were and he pointed to back corner where there was another mountain stacked 3 high, 12 deep, 12 wide. I did a quick check of the first dozen "KLZE"'s and they were hybrid motors with proper blocks & usdm heads, usdm blocks and jdm heads, one usdm head one jdm, wrong intake manifolds etc etc. They wouldn't allow me to take off any valve covers to check camshaft p/n's, as well as condition of head. They said I could only open the oil filler cap, which clearly had been pressure washed through the filler hole, with reddish sludge everywhere else in the head. I searched for 3.5 hours before I found a motor I was remotely happy with, with all part codes matching proper jdm motor. As I was there for that long I saw them hit motors with the forklifts, push them around on their oilpans, pick the motors up via intake mani's, turbo mani's etc. One guy dropped a front cut S13 180sx on the cut section from about 10 feet up. Their "compression testing" was an old guy spinning the flywheel by hand (breaker bar), with no oil in motor, saying whether the motor was good or not based on the compression sounds it made during rotation .. The icing on the top was when he was dropping it into my truck, I noticed the disty cap was smashed by his forklift chain, and there was no oil dipstick, and he said as soon it was in my truck it was not his problem. Got home and did a compression test of my own and cyl 3 and 5 were 110 psi (the rest were 205#). Head gasket bad, distributor was blown and looked like the original spark plugs from a 1998-2001 motor . I will never buy Tiger Japanese, ever. I'll ship a motor from Texas up here before driving the hour over to those dummies. This being said, I'm sure guys have had good luck with motors, I'm just sharing my experience. Just a heads up to the HybridZ guys.

Engine mounts are the same but the blocks are pretty different. Bonus is the KA24E is lower compression if you plan on boosting. IIRC 8.6:1 instead of 9.5:1 - Change the head, intake and exhaust manifold, front engine and head covers, and oil pan. - Oil pump is different - KA-E block doesn't have oil squirters. Block off the holes in the bottom side of the block for those passages and keep the ones in front open for the new cover. Change all the pump hardware over for the DE. - Change the balancer and stuff to the DE and find a different collar. - Timing - modify one of the larger chain guides by cutting off the top and rounding it out so that it doesn't push the chain right into the idler sprocket. - Heating lines into the back of the block are different and need to be swapped. - KA-DE P/S Bracket needs to be changed to use the holes that are on the KA-E block. - A/C won't bolt on. - Alternator fits. - Motor mounts are 1/4" higher on block, therefore it will sit 1/4" lower in bay (Yay). Side note - are U13 Bluebirds and 99+ Navara not KA24DE?

These look alot like East Bear seats- they are based off the design of R34 seats.. Super comfy, durable (as long as they're legit East Bear's), good seat for the $$$ lol.