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Posts posted by zed240au
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that is one sweet exhaust well done great work has inspired me consider removing tyre well and make new exhaust
mick
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your extractors are look great been long time coming to see this happen in a group buy but sure you will all love results when you get them fitted
I was very frustrated burning plug leads with my JTR lhd header so finally bit bullet and built my own long tubes to suit rhd car
just a suggestion and not sure if it is possible with your lhd cars have pic below of how i made my lhd side trying get as close as possible to equal length tube does mean i have to remove oil pressure sender to fit to car but other wise it slides in from bottom fine
also picture of rhd side showing gap for steering
made in 3/4 tube
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first time bleeding clutch i welded a piece of 1/4" rod to a deep 13mm socket which allowed me to put bleed tube down middle of socket and still twist bleed nipple open worked ok
but have since added remote bleeder works so much better
mick
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Im running c.o.m.e racing cam with there spring package making good hp have you thought about running std computer with number of tuners around now its a good way to go be able to fit and tune it for less than cost of a motec and think how much GM spent developing it they are brillant computers
mick
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well going from my experience i would suggest a improved windage tray if you plan any track work took my first ls1 to track day ran number 6 bearing and demolished motor in 4 laps of symons plains
It smashed rod piston windage tray wrecked crank block broke timing chain and bent 6 valves
Motor was out of a wreck 98 model so maybe had some damage but have bought a improved racing windage tray for my new 04 motor just as little insurance and will be watching oil pressure like a hawk in future was just having so much fun i forgot
And symons is known for being tough on bearings
mick
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why dont u just cut the metal line fit a brake line fitting (that suits brake line your using) onto pipe and re flare pipe worked fine for me
mick
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Well think i can join club at last been long time coming but just did first motorsport event with car so think i can claim it 99% finished
car is 71 240z
engine and gearbox are from 98 commodore hsv clubsport r8 or Gto as you know them in states ls1 with t56 6 speed with 70,000 km
started install in april 2005 got engine running june 2008
used jci install kit made up gearbox cross member myself say as jtr specs
Used jtr radiator
used jtr header on left hand side as its rhd car had to make my own right hand side header running twin 2.5" exhaust into single muffler at rear
had std computers securites burnt off and tuned mafless raised rev limit to 6800 and had mild tune done on computer
Had guy modify std wiring loom adding wires i needed to connect along with identifying wires for gauges
Had tail shaft made up to suit
fitted internal walbro fuel pump into tank
Fitted r200 lsd from dr30 skyline
28 spline stud axles along with 300zx cv axles
went bit crazy with arizona zcar buying there camber plates,coil over its ,lower front suspension control arms, diff moustache bar , alloy rear suspension hangers and bump steer knuckles usd modern motorsport rear control arms along with bilstein struts
plus i sectioned 45 mmm from struts along jtr idea using vw rabbit struts in front and old fronts in rear
ow and just love the power of the ls1 is just amazing so happy i went with the ls1
thats all i can think of now
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i fitted a 10% underdrive pulley to mine fits fine and clears crossmemeber well
mick
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One thing i never liked about the ls1 was the coils on the rocker covers so i made some covers up thought might cover some of the wiring and heater hoses while i was at it
at same time decided to put bug catcher back on car missed that lump in the bonnet and should be best cold air induction
What do u think im very happy with way it all turned out
mick
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had similar issue with my car on start up had spark had pulse at injectors ended up pulling injectors from engine left them connected and turned them upside down on engine turned out only 4 injectors where firing fuel out plugged in another set of injectors and it fired up fine guess fuel rail was blocked or injectors where dead
just my experience Mick
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having done a ls1 conversion i would say you have at bare minium of $2500 of extras over cost of motor and gearbox you may do better if you can source parts cheaper using a camaro engine and gearbox is best other things i would suggest u need are jci basic kit , Jtr extractors , tail shaft shorten end changed , gearbox mount and cross member , high pressure fuel pump and regulator , burn securities off computer and modify wiring loom
extras that you may require upgraded radiator ,speedo drive, tacho ,brake upgrade
and plenty of tyres hope this helps
mick
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i used jtr radiator and found that i needed to pull top radiator hose off to to fill engine and heater core with coolant plus i pulled on heater hose off and filled that to get coolant system full of coolant
other trap i found with coolant system was changing radiator cap to suit gen 111 coolant range which meant going from datsun suitable radiator cap to 19 pound gm suitable cap
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hi dont know if anyone does it over there but here i australia have guy changing ratios in t56 boxs not cheap but it you want to get ratios perfect could be worth it
ratios they have are list on there site http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/
mick
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i used jtr radiator bought jci liquids kit but hoses didnt line up so ended up bending piece of wire to match shape i wanted then went to local auto parts shop just went through there hoses till i found something that matched
though i did end up using jtr hose coupling in middle of two hoses to make up top hose
one tip that caught me out was taking top hose off and filling engine with coolant via hose tried to do it just via radiator filler first but car ran hot and when i checked again was low on coolant was obviously getting air lock but has been fine since i filled via top hose did same with heater hose to just to be sure coolant system was full
mick
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i would not consider running the r180 with the ls1 great little diff but dont think its big enough to handle grunt of a ls1 for long
go with the r200
mick
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i bought aftermarket tacho a 3 3/4 one and pulled old tacho apart fitted internals of new tacho to to 240z face plate and into 240z housing needle is not quite as long as std one but works fine
using cable x box for speedo gonna try getting shorter cable as it seems to be bit slow to start when i first drive it but once its up and running it works fine
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i used std datsun tank fitted internal walbro pump used single line 3/8 line to engine and mount automotive fuel reg at tank so only need short return line to tank
just used brass olive pipe fitting on end of std fuel rail these fitting with std hose clamp can handle in excess of 100 psi
works fine
went with twin 2.5" to single exhaust dont look as sexy as twin rear pipes but less weight and adds to sleeper potential
mick
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not sure about 280z but on 240z area each side of tunnel is flat across to chasis rail either side
pics i have seen of jci gearbox crossmember are very similar to jtr just have piece either end that bolts to chasis rail either side horizonatally on 280z as 240z chasis rail is not thick enough to bolt in that way from my experience
mick
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i had cross member made to jtr specs worked fine with my ls1 t56 conversion
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ok i know this is old thread just wondering if spring rates recomended above are same for ls1 engine powered 240z as the 6cyl powered cars will try the 350 front and 300 rears seems like best point to start running 250 all round at moment and not happy with that so ill try the 350 300 combo unless someone has any input
mick
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Just wondering what rating springs other people are running with there LS1 conversions ive gone with arizona z cars coil overs 250 ib front and rear but think its going to need some fine tuning using bilstein struts all round
I know everyones ideas are different when it comes to suspension but thought be good to hear what people are running give me idea which way to go in fine tuning
thanks mick
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well i just cut the line with tube cutters and put fitting on and flared line easy enough done
but if i was doing it again i would split transmission from engine and fit braided line direct to clutch fitting would also fit a braided line to bleeder with bleed nipple on other end so i can reach it at manifold level much easier to bleed than trying to do it in the tunnel just a tip i saw on aussie ls1 site
mick
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i used a pbr jb1419 1" master cylinder plenty of capacity
mick
Side Exhaust
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
I run a exhaust shop For last powercruise I ran 2 auger style mufflers under drive shaft area of car and then two hotdog resonators one out each side of car for bit of Would doubt it was legal for cams racing here in Australia but was fine for cruising for weekend Car is 383 stroked ls1 with 1 7/8" 4 into one extractors and twin 3" system
Would be worried about ground clearance if u went to 4" pipe If The z31 is longer than 240z u might get twin 3" with 2 sets of hotdogs in tunnel then another set under sill Done plenty of street commodores with just 3 pairs of hotdogs sounded fine for street but they are running cat converters