zed240au
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Posts posted by zed240au
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ok this is something ive been trying to figure out as well to me i thought i would need to keep the coil top away from the the camber plate as per 1 fast z spacer so that the load is taken up by the mono ball and there is no binding of the coil hat to the camber plate when steering is this correct or wrong
I dont have as much space on my bilstein strut to make spacer as big as 1 fast z but believe the spacer i have machined up will give me just enough
The other reason i thought the load should be on the mono ball was i had heard people saying the coil overs and camber plates where noisy banging so i thought if its nice and tight with all things bolted tight should stop noise
am i on the right or wrong track
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man that looks great blueOvalz
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i might be wrong but all the welders i talked with suggest you want the metal as clean as possible to get the best weld like when i put my roll cage in my rally car the welder had me run the angle grinder over every spot before he welded must say ive found it the cleaner the better for welding
as for putting filler over primer read some interesting reports suggesting it makes very little difference between primer and bare metal though u have to rember primer will absorb moisture so the quicker u seal or top coat the better
as for paint stripping i find good old paint stripper best and a 3m cleaning wheel to finish off
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will take some pics for u at the weekend just waiting on tube cutter to finish mine off so there still apart
mick
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hi phantaz to answer your question and this is just the way ive decided to do it (i believe its the right way) the inside of the threaded tube has an section about 3/8 deep machined in it to sit over a collar welded to the strut tube
very interested in the top of the struts though using my Bilstein struts i had to machine down the old fronts (im using new bilsteins in front and old fronts in rear to secion shorten struts)to accept the the top bearing dont have anywhere near as much room between the coil top and the top bearing at the momentas the ones in shown here ive machined a 3 mm spacer and locater hoping thats enought other wise ill have to pack with washers or machine a small lip into to coil top
wont know till i fit them to the car later this week
have pictures in my album if you want to see what im talking about cant work out how to show them here
Mick
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will measure the two calipers and let you know difference i have a set of mazda callipers nice and light
am running the late toyota 4x4 calipers at the moment main difference i can see is pad area i believe the toyotas would have bigger pads
and i had just bought new pads for the toyotas before buying the mazda calipers but am still tempted by the weight of them
mick
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well thanks for the sleepless nights BOY FROM OZ the way approvals work down here in Tasmania is they approve a engine conversion for 6 months after that you need to apply again if not finished technically a new application well my old approval ran out early febuary yeah i know im slow getting it done but wanted to build my own mounts and extractors but in the end decided to go with johns car kit and jtr extractors (been a bit of a wait to get stuff from USA) why invent the wheel when its already been done might as well go with a proven product and save a lot of headaches
So after reading BOY FROM OZ statement that australian rules had changed in febuary this year i sent my application back in very worried but today i got my approval granted for a further 6 months gonna bust my butt now and get it done in the 6 months i have
So all i can say is want a V8 in a zed come to tasmania we might have 2 heads but at least we can register our v8 zeds
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have a look at street machine this month they are suggesting putting a 350 cube taken out to 440 cube motor in there expression session i do note that they dont have the engineer suggestions in these articles any more but they used to have aengineer saying what is possible so i would think that they are suggesting it could be done and registered
Still think it all comes back to the engineer involved
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man they look good just luv those big wheels with plenty of dish to them they make the late model big wheels with no dish look so bad
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hi bought set of arizona z car camber plates and coil overs wondering if anyone else here has fitted them
Im running bilstein struts looking at the set up do i need to run a bearing between the coil over cap and the mono ball in the camber plate or does the monoball act as the bearing
also do the mono bearing come in different sizes as the ones supplied dont fit on my bilstein struts othe idea is to mache the strut down the small amount needed to fit
Hope someone can help
thanks
Mick
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man they look so sweet are u planning on flaring guards or no flares
what size tyres u hoping to run
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hi just a question here ive been running std strut length bilsteins with 1" lowered std heavy duty springs for many years quite happy with this but wanting more camber adjustment i have now bought arizona z camber plates and coil over kit with 250 ib springs
my question is will the camber plates and coil overs drop the overall height or do i still need to section struts to get the lowered look as well as full suspension travel
mick
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hi just a question here ive been running std strut length bilsteins with 1" lowered std heavy duty springs for many years quite happy with this but wanting more camber adjustment i have now bought arizona z camber plates and coil over kit with 250 ib springs
my question is will the camber plates and coil overs drop the overall height or do i still need to section struts to get the lowered look as well as full suspension travel
mick
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As per most rules now days it really is down to the engineer if he will give you a certificate to say its safe be it wheels or engine changes then transport will approve it cause they got someone else to blame if something goes wrong namely the engineer
with the tassie system i tell transport what i want to do then they approve in principle or not if approved go to one of the approved engineers let him oversee the changes and he gives you the australia wide recognised modification plate if he is happy its all safe
and as there are a number of chev , rover, nissan, holden v8 approved cars out there should be easy enough
though one think to check with you more advanced states on the big island of australia some engineers or transport are said to be wanting pollution , brake and vehcile stability tests done which can add big dollars to a conversion people quoteing $3000 for the pollution test and $900 for brake and vehicle stability tests
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as already mention the Jtr book deals with the older 307 to 400 chev block engines easy swap just get the book it does not deal with the aussie built 308 holden motors at all
with the Ls1 motors as mention Johns cars make a kit the gearbox lever does line up with the existing hole im you do have to cut the existing gearbox mounts off the tunnel but other wise its a straight forward fit kit comes with all parts needed and basic instructions
as for horsepower my motors from a clubsport r8 commodore 250 kw std had the maf removed and rev limit raised as well as a few tweaks in the computer and securitys burnt off suggested output is close to 300kw
but check out some of the other guys on this sites outputs real nice hp
plenty of ls1 cuts around try ebay or check out parts magazine most holden wreckers have them
but as said you really should do some searchs and work out your budget
if u just want a v8 i got a nice nissan v8 with 5 speed 600 dp holley hand made extractors sitting on the floor just pulled from my 240z will fit straight in no problems being 4.4 ltr rego approval comes easy be happy if i got $2500 even got the bug catcher and bonnet cut to suit if you want to look tough for it but for a ls1 or 350 chev id suggest you need at least $10,000 and thats if you can do most of the labour yourself
mick
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yeah thats the idea hope it fries tyres good will tell u about it in 2 to 3 months just recieved my headers today so the nissan v8 comes out tonight as long as i dont get bogged down painting engine bay again 3rd time if i was counting but got adjustable camber plates to fit and some holes to weld up damn auto electrician drilling with out asking
suppose ill have to fit 17 or 18 wheels to get wider tyres inside standard guards got coil overs to fit so should be able to get something wider under there
mick
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plenty of ls1 chevs becoming avilable now with commodores having run them since 98 good autos or 6 speeds to go with them really are a better choice i think here in land of oz pretty can get all the parts off shelf
ive bought one of johns cars install kits for ls1 and jtrs headers so you can get the parts u need from the states just have to wait 6 to 8 weeks to get freight reasonable
mick
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it has been done in most states of australia fairly easy down here in tassie just put in a application of what u want to do which i have with the nissan v8 and more recently a ls1 if transport agree they approve just need a engineer to check it out and as there is no structual changes should be approved
I knew of a few 240z with 327 and 350 fitted one othe member was saying in nsw theres a rule that u cant go over 5.3 litres in a 240 but im sure if u get an engineer on board u can get approval
as for the super charger not sure try driving it with a 350 first see if u need more then
injection would be no problem
mick
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ive ran holley blue on both my zed and rx4 only trouble ive had is listening to them hummm and base gasket letting go on one so it sucked air
would have to say if u cant hear it humming its not working always hear mine humming away louder when you first turn on till it get full pressure up
hadnt heard any bd responses till i read the above
Oh well im fitting my next pump inside the tank so i can just listen to my new motor with no hum
mick
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i believe its been done in uk when i was emailing John at Johns cars he said hed sold a kit into the Uk so i think its been done there
having now looked at Johns kit i cant see any reason it wont work just waiting on extractors and time to pull Nissan V8 out and start install got all my parts bar radiator but will work that out once its all in place
taken the bonnet off and unbolted the engine just sitting ready to hoist out
mick
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bugger there goes that idea of being the first oh well just have to enjoy the xtra hp and have fun
mick
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hi im sourcing parts at the moment to put a clubsport r8 ls1 in my 240z got transport approval just waiting on extractors to come from Jtr and hope to install during january febuary all being well has taken a bit longer to get everything together for install havent heard of any other ls1 zeds in australia hoping to be the first
Think i have most things covered now had planned on making my own extractors but changed my mind hate having the motor sitting in my shed so close
mick
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thanks for the offer ezzzzzzz think i might be saved just found a USA supplier who will send to australia have placed order so fingers crossed
will get back to u if i need to take you up on your kind offer
Had a local importer tell me he would have parts here for over 2 months now every time u ring its a new story
heres hoping cant wait to start bolting my ls1 in hoping to be first in australia with a ls1 in a 240z
thanks
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most parts are avliable through holden but the holden use the corvette style engine mount and have the sump opposite to the camaro oil pan to front got a camaro sump but no oil pick up
but as u say most other parts off the shelf at local holden dealership
mick
Spaced 280ZX calipers for vented rotors?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
if u want rear caliper with e brake in the caliper on vented discs one that does this is series 4 mazda rx7 vented discs and calipers with ebrake been running them on my rx4 rally car number years now work fine
only trouble we has the e brake pulling on over bigger jumps on dirt rallies and some sealed rallies we ended disconnecting the ebrake got the hydraulic ebrake as well any way just coonect the cable one for rego issues
for normal road work they work great and u can get decent pads for them too