zuhow

I would say to you " it comes apart a lot easier than it goes back together". What I mean by that is, don't touch anything you don't have to. Trust me on that. I started this project as a young man of 20ish. I just turned 51. I still haven't driven it.

>I think you're mixing metric and English units. Totally possible, and I would be happy to declare that I am, in fact, an idiot! Standby for results.... **edit** Yes boys and girls, I AM an idiot. rossman, send me your next bar tab- It's on me....

Ugh. This project has been on hold for a very long time, and now I'm getting somewhere, or so I thought. This is such an ugly issue that I'd like some input from you guys. After getting the engine started and getting ready for a test drive, I decided to check the valve lash. I've got about half of what I should have (0.016" measured v. 0.030" spec). I'm all the way down on the post- the lock nut is tight to the post. I've got the standard 0.120" pads in there. What I think happened is that the machine shop set the valves too deep. I was smart enough to not trust them, and I did a wipe test on each and every rocker. What they had sent back to me would have definitely self destructed. I've run the engine maybe 10h between break in and assorted testing. All the lobes and rockers look fine. So my question is "now what?" and I fear the answer is that I'm pulling that head and sending it out for a rework. Your comments are appreciated.

I stuffed a bore scope down there and it all looks good

I did pull the valve cover, everything is in order. I doubt that the tensioner has fallen out of place, but maybe it's possible. Do you think that air in the cooling system could be cavitating in the water pump? It does have that 'pumping marbles' sound to it. It'll see if I can get a good clip of it. So far the recordings don't seem to capture the sound well. Thanks

Hey there, I've been here a long time. Somehow 21 turned into 51 in the blink of an eye. But now I've got this project going somewhere again and I'd like some input from you guys. I just started this engine up after it's rebuild- it's been sitting a long time. It fires right up, and runs great. It's just that it seems to make more noise from the timing chain area that I'm comfortable with. The water pump turns freely with no slop, as does the alternator. Is this normal and I'm just paranoid? Any ideas/advice? Should I just run it and hope for the best? There's no sort of grinding or bad mechanical sounds- it's just uncomfortably loud.

280zx turbo motor with stock turbo $300 around Baltimore/DC https://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/d/columbia-1982-nissan-datsun-280zx-turbo/6938347603.html

Best craislist ad ever (datsun related too) Click it before it's gone http://easternshore.craigslist.org/for/3020885291.html copied just in case: Jack Russel/datsun mixed - $50 (Chestertown, MD) I have a 2 1/2 year old Jack russel/ Datsun mix. ALL shots are up to date and he is neutered. Great dog just have to get rid of him. Would like to recieve a $50 re-homing fee. He will come with new crate, food and all paperwork from the vet. His name is boo-boo..... call or text ONLY (redacted) . ask for mike If you want to see him just call and i can send you a pic through text or you can come here to see.... Thanks

I've got new Victoria British fenders, L & R that you can cut up or use. PM me, I'll let 'em go cheap.

I have a MSA Stage 3 cam , new with cam card for $135 shipped

I have the 81 pulley and you can have the pick up sensor as well. I ship it to you all for $55 as well.

I love this little grizzley press that I have, and you really can't beat the price. http://grizzley.com/products/5-Speed-Bench-Top-Radial-Drill-Press/G7945

I did this a while back- get (2) 25' rolls of the stainless. I looked at the AN fittings and it's just way too much cash- it think it was over a $100 in just adapters. That stainless is hard- I quit using the tubing bender because you almost can't crush that tube. I ended up making single flares on the tubing ends because there was no way to double flare the tubing- I was working at an aerospace company at the time and even their production tubing flare machine wouldn't make the double flare.

For a shingle roof, you need minimum 3' fall per 12'. With wet snow you might have some problems, but I've got 4/12 and haven't had any problems. You should have a permit, but really that depends on your neighbors. I'd look into a standing seam metal roof if I were you. It won't be cheap, but much cheaper than new engineeringed trusses and a what not.

I second the Jeff Hartman book- How to tune and Modify EMS