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Showing results for tags 'air conditioning'.
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I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser out of a 280Z. I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount. This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines. The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings. Does any know what standard fitting was used on 280z condensers? I need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone) to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit. Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference. Finally, local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with "O" ringed fittings. The reasons they give are: 1. the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant; that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL, and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants. So can anyone tell me: 1. What standard are my condenser's fittings? Are they JIC? 2. Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings? 3. Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop? I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem. thanks, -
It snowed today in Louisiana and it reminded me that my heat hasn't been working, currently typing with numb fingers. Here's what I know: No heat comes out of any vents no matter what setting. Outside temp air is blowing through the center vents and the side vents no matter the setting. I got the car to operating temp and felt the heater hoses to the firewall, both were hot to the touch. I checked the vacuum lines from the manifold to the heater solenoids and they were connected fine. The line from the solenoids to the firewall is fine too. (Haven't checked inside dash yet.) It's possible that I might've unplugged a vacuum line that runs under the dash to the AC/Heater unit. I've pulled my radio and my center console out plenty of times. Might've snagged something. Since I have hot coolant flowing through the heater core and the hoses I don't think it's a heater core issue. I'm suspecting the climate control panel or something connected to it. It's my understanding that when you switch your climate control to heat/defroster it should immediately pump air through the defrost vents/floor vents. Mine always blows through the center and sides on any setting. Also, My lever that controls the "Hot/Cool" temp of the air coming through feels really bad and not properly set up. Hard to explain but it feels almost spongy and doesn't stay where I put it. I read that it's a cable that controls this and I might have to adjust it. Also possible that the door that controls which air gets blown through the vents is stuck? Could the solenoids that control the heater be seized? I haven't tried checking all of these yet because I'm really not looking forward to pull my dashboard out. I don't have a radio installed right now though so maybe I could access this through that hole? I'm just looking for someone that maybe had issues similar to mine that could provide some insight. I HAVE got my heater to work ONCE before, and I don't know how I did it. It was last winter and it was a seriously cold night and it just worked. I had heat pumping through my defrost vents but nothing since then.
