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JTCN last won the day on October 19 2017

JTCN had the most liked content!

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About JTCN

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    United States, Louisiana, Cottonport

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  1. Hi, had my driver side glass shatter on me today and am having some trouble sourcing a new one. If anyone has one they’d like to sell or have a parts car they could pull off of for me to buy that’d be great. Also not sure exactly which years of glass will fit in my 75, I know there were changes throughout the years of the car but I read some conflicting things so far. If any well knowing Z guys can chime and help me out with that I’d appreciate it. Thanks!
  2. The springs: https://zcardepot.com/products/coil-spring-set-stock-and-lowered-240z-260z-280z?variant=21384265269361 I'm planning on installing new springs and struts and I've found this option. I don't race my car and my suspension is totally stock so far, I feel my springs and struts are fine I'm just looking to lower it. I want a 1.5 or 2" drop, I like that the springs I've linked seem linear and not progressive. They don't give much of a description of who makes these springs or where they come from though. Has anyone used them? Would you recommend the
  3. So I was on my way home tonight when all of a sudden my fan belt snapped. I was left stranded and had to pull in to a little parking lot and leave my car because it was overheating. I had a friend pick me up and I'm at his house for the night until tomorrow when we try to find a new fan belt. But I know in the process of installing a new fan belt you have to remove the ac belt. I really dont have time or the tools to spend installing 2 belts before my car gets towed. Can I drive without an ac belt? My plan is to just loosen the idler and pull that belt off to install the fan belt,
  4. Well this is strange... lmao I'm back outside after eating dinner and first thing I do is turn the key on. I heard the blower motor running and I was about to turn it off but decided to start the car anyway. For some reason I decided to feel over the defroster vent and oh my god theres warm air. I don't know how I fixed it but I guess I must've plugged in a vacuum line that I didn't notice was unplugged. I took them all off under the heater controls and plugged them into the right nipples on the hvac control unit. I'm gonna shut the car off and come back later tonight to make
  5. So I chased vacuum lines some more today and all the lines are fine. I found all the lines from the manifold and dash pot to the solenoids, to the vacuum bottle, through the firewall, and under the heater controls. Not a crack or split on any of them. All still soft and flexible. I've done more research and it seems that on '75 cars the heater control valve is solely cable operated. No vacuum except for the flaps that control airflow. Since the defroster/floor vents in my car never blow air on any setting, I'm guessing it's the vacuum controlled doors. But if all my
  6. Alright I'm back from round 3 and we're finally getting somewhere. I removed my glovebox and I can see clearly that when I move the mode select lever, the heater door opens. So no cable binding or broken cable issues there. So what is actually vacuum controlled? Are there seperate doors that use vacuum on 1975 cars?
  7. Just got back from round 2. I can't stay out there for long because my fingers go numb and useless. Anyway, I stuck my phone into the empty radio slot and recorded a video with my flash on. The cable to the temp lever is connected and works fine. I could see the cable that's connected to the climate mode selector (REC, DEFROST, AC, etc.) I could see pieces moving in there everytime I switched the mode. The cable was pulling them through the modes and they would click in place. I was only able to see one vacuum line in there though and it was small and hooked up properly. I
  8. It snowed today in Louisiana and it reminded me that my heat hasn't been working, currently typing with numb fingers. Here's what I know: No heat comes out of any vents no matter what setting. Outside temp air is blowing through the center vents and the side vents no matter the setting. I got the car to operating temp and felt the heater hoses to the firewall, both were hot to the touch. I checked the vacuum lines from the manifold to the heater solenoids and they were connected fine. The line from the solenoids to the firewall is fine too. (Haven't checked inside dash yet.)
  9. Update time. My new driveshaft came in today, this time with the correct bolt pattern. Installed it in 30 minutes, went to the gas station, and took the Z for a long drive. It drives perfect now. No shaking or rattling noises, just smooth and slow Z power. It made me realize how slow my car is when I don't have a shaking and rattling deathshaft spinning at 3000 RPM under me. Thanks to NewZed and everyone that helped.
  10. Thanks man. I'm just going to deal with the gap and check it everytime I have my car jacked up. I have a bigger problem though. The new bolt holes don't line up with my diff flange. The new DS bolt pattern has slightly more space between the bolt holes then my old one, so I can get 2 bolts in on the same side but I can't get the other 2 bolts in, because the DS holes and diff holes don't line up. So we called the place I bought the driveshaft and they're claiming that it doesn't make sense, and that for a '75 280Z coupe the driveshaft should fit. Also the bolt holes themselves are larger
  11. Somehow my driveshaft got here unbelievably fast. Seriously only took 1 day and it's here now. So I just removed my old driveshaft and found a problem. My old DS has a dust cover over the slip yolk, my new DS doesn't. Do I need a dust cover? I've been trying to remove the cover from my old DS by hammering at the seam with a flathead and hammer trying to seperate it from the DS. I see that a lot of 280z driveshafts being sold online don't have dust covers. Is that because they're not needed or because they assume you'll just use the cover from your old DS? I need to know if
  12. Yep, and I had to buy a whole new driveshaft today. Driveshaft shop near me quoted $200 for each end of the driveshaft. Then I would have to switch out the differential flange to mate up with the new yoke they weld. Which is ridiculous considering the new one I bought is like $300. Oh well at least I'll have my Z driving again and not wreck my driveline in the process.
  13. Uhh... bad news. I got under the car while I had it still in the air. I found the problem. Let's just say my driveshaft definitely DOESN'T feel tight and I'm a big dumbass. The driveshaft ujoint on the diff side is severely messed up. There's a lot of play on one of the cups when you wiggle the shaft. I recorded it, here's the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIL4z48Ayjo So when I'm going down the road the driveshaft starts spinning up and this ujoint slaps and rattles the driveshaft the whole time. I don't want to drop $300 on a new driveshaft. So I'm going
  14. I ripped out my driver's side halfshaft today to check the ujoints. They feel totally fine, no play at all and felt firm on the hub side and the diff side. There was a lot of grease buildup around the ujoint on the diff side. I don't know if it's from the ujoint itself or the diff though. I don't think I'm going to take out the passenger side halfshaft because it feels just as tight as the drivers side. Honestly I'm pretty bummed it wasn't that simple. Now I guess I'm going to wait until I go to the trans shop and see what they think instead of messing with this thing anymore. If they say
  15. I just found a video of a Z that's making a noise VERY similar to mine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz84sFQBA1c It's similar in the way that it's some kind of rattling/knocking noise in the rear end. In the video his is a lot louder than mine and more pronounced. The video description says it's from one of the halfshafts, and that it was a bad ujoint. I'm going to take my car to the transmission shop this week and ask them to check out the halfshafts. I think this is my problem.
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