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Showing results for tags 'differentials'.
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I bought a partially done project--a relatively rust-free 280Z with what appears to be a rebuilt Vortec V-8. Those are the good things I can say. This car had once had another engine in it, the hood had a cutout section where there may have been a blower sticking through, and in the glove box were several drag-strip timing sheets in the 12s (so if there was a supercharger, on it it wasn't all that effective). The seller said that the original engine blew, someone bought it and was installing this engine and then ran out of steam. She bought it and thought her boyfriend could finish it, but from what it appears, he just had her order some expensive parts, including a new aluminum radiator, new Holley 650 carb, new fuel pump and a few other things. I've had to redo most of the boyfriend's efforts, and in other posts, you may have seen the issues I've faced. I am using a different motor-mounts and tranny--a rebuilt GMC 2004R--so the engine sets back. Therefore I had to pull the driveshaft and have it cut down. If fits, but doesn't properly mate with the differential. I've spent three long afternoons under the car, trying to get the companion flange on the driveshaft to properly mate with the flange on the diffy. Never could get the flange to drop in so that the two faces mated. And this is the flange I took off it, the flange that the dragster owner had in place. I'm certain that the machine shop didn't somehow swap out that part, because I marked one corner with a center-punch so I'd mate it as it had been. Finally in exasperation today, I pulled the shaft out for the millionth time and measured the male flange, then went under the car and measured the female cut-out. I was stunned! The driveshaft flange is 157+mm and the machined slot on the flange on the front of the differential is 49mm and change--they never mated! Must have been a vibrating ride--wild and noisy. So, this tells me that the flange is for a different rear end than mine. I am going to include photos with this of the flanges in question and of the differential. I think I read on this forum that a smooth rear cover might indicate it is a R200 rather than an R180. So, the questions are: 1. Can I swap out either the flange on the driveshaft or differential? And if so, which? The flange on the U-joint would be easiest. And I am not taking this to the strip, so it doesn't need to be the most robust. 2. Can you tell from the photos which diffy I have back there? There's the driveshaft--local shop did a nice job cutting it down Here's the flange on the U-joint. If that can be traded out with one that fits the diffy, it would be easiest. Here's the flange on the front of the differential. That machined well is only 49mm and change. If this is the flange that needs changing, do I need a puller? Here's a side view of the differential and below is a shot from the rear. Can you tell me which it is? Thank you in advance for the answers.
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So, i read up on the various different diffs available for swaps with the accompanying information and still couldn't find a answer to my question. My question is since from what i read the main point of diff failure is spider gears from a open diff, does that mean a welded R180 is as capable of handling 600ft/lbs of torque? because from what i read there was a limit, r180 was about 300 ft/lbs, r200 was 400+ and R230 is apparently retard strong. also, would a R230 reduce ground clearance? Would a clutchpack increase the amount of torque a diff could reliably handle? thanks
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