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wingwalker

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wingwalker last won the day on September 7 2019

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About wingwalker

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  • Location
    walla walla, WA11

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  1. I have made a bunch of progress and have the car running (and what a lovely sound that aggressive cam gives the engine as its exhaust blasts through a Flowmaster). Wiring is my weak area, so I was pleased with the following: 1. Started on first crank 2. Did not smoke anywhere 3. Did not blow any of the big fuses replacing the fusible links 4. And I was thrilled to see all the gauges actually working (I didn't try the lighting for them or the lights on the car). However, the tach doesn't work. Nada. I tried to follow the book as it pertains to HEI, but as I've wr
  2. Thanks to all of you for the generous responses. Walkerbk, you are closest, and since we get over to your side of the state a few times a year, I'll contact you before we make our next trip. I'm of course running slower than hoped on the body work, so it may be a month before I get back to you. Again, thanks to each of you for the responses.
  3. Do you still have the air dam for sale?
  4. Thanks, AydinZ71. I'm hoping to finish body work soon. Any chance you might move up the timeline for the front fenders? Or is there another Z-person out there who has recently done it and still has the trimmings?
  5. If you are installing flares on the front of your Z and have to cut away part of the fender. I'd be interested in your scraps. I have a 280Z that I'm doing body work on now, and find that a previous own cut away the edge of my front fenders to clear some aftermarket wheels with fat tires on them. I can't find patch panels, so believe your scraps may be my answer. I'm in the Pacific Northwest (Walla Walla), so nearby would be great. Let me know. Thanks.
  6. I'm pretty sure my alternator has a bad diode, and it's only 65 amps, so I plan on replacing it. I just ordered a Vintage Air a/c and intend to add a hefty sound system--both of which will require more power than the stock 280Z ate (the a/c and heater uses electric servo controls rather than vacuum that the stock system used), so I'm thinking of ordering a 100-amp or larger alternator. The choices are overwhelming. Anyone care to steer me to the right choice? Cost is a facotr.
  7. The proper U-joint flange from JTR (the DAT-110-2 flange version) arrived in the mail--a nice piece, and I swapped it out for the improper one the previous owner had on it. Mated perfectly without any drama whatsoever. Tightening the four bolts that hold the flange to the differential is tedious, with two open-end wrenches achieving about a 1/16th turn at a time, but it's in . I finished rebuilding the brakes yesterday with the help of my son (who drove over from the Seattle area, about five hours from here). Wonderful father's day gift--two masked men getting grimy doing brakes on a car preci
  8. Great help, everyone. Thanks. I measured carefully and then spoke on the phone with someone at JTR. It is the DAT 110-2 flange I need. So, another $85.00 into this never-ending project, and I should have the driveshaft and differential properly mated.The man at JTR said they have it on hand, so it should ship on Saturday. With new brakes on all four corners, that should take care of the moving parts needed to move this thing down the road. A close look at the differential reveals no bolts around the axle holes and a rectangular bar across the bottom of the c
  9. Thanks, I'll go out and inspect the differential more closely--sounds as if the bolts around the axle holes are the clue. And I need to make some careful measurements to ensure that part is the one I need. Always a challenge working on these old things--especially when some PO had creative engineering notions.
  10. New Zed, Thank you. Both links are very helpful. Looks like I need the DAT110 flange, but before I order it I need to go back under the car (for the million and first time) to take careful measurements to ensure it is what I need. My 280Z is a '77 built with auto transmission. The u-joint does disassemble with clips, so it may be the converted Chevy part per the JTR manual. Your first link shows that the flange is on a spline, so I doubt it'll need a puller. And that's good. But nothing is simple. I have the rear drums and brake parts off, so I won't be able to set
  11. I bought a partially done project--a relatively rust-free 280Z with what appears to be a rebuilt Vortec V-8. Those are the good things I can say. This car had once had another engine in it, the hood had a cutout section where there may have been a blower sticking through, and in the glove box were several drag-strip timing sheets in the 12s (so if there was a supercharger, on it it wasn't all that effective). The seller said that the original engine blew, someone bought it and was installing this engine and then ran out of steam. She bought it and thought her boyfriend could finish it, but fro
  12. Are you talking about something sold by John's or outlined in his book? I'm about ready to install A/C and have been looking at Vintage Air Gen. II mini units (the one with heat and defrost), but so far I haven't heard back from the nearby supplier on a few questions. So, I too would like to see photos of solutions and feedback on what works best.
  13. Okay, out with the volt/ohm meter. I'll dig in and find something. And after that, on to the brakes. I'm getting close enough to visualize starting this thing.
  14. Anyone have suggestions for sources of switched power other than cigarette lighter circuit? I kinda hate to pull that source out to the engine bay, since I may need it for something in the future in the cockpit.
  15. Thanks, JHM. Good point about only cooling the fluid in the radiator. Maybe there would be some block cooling due to percolation (the strategy the early Model T Fords used), but for a big hunk of iron like the GMC V8, probably negligible. So it makes sense to look for switched power. I can pull it off the cigarette lighter circuit, but are there other sources folks use?
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