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wingwalker last won the day on September 7 2019

wingwalker had the most liked content!

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About wingwalker

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    walla walla, WA11

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  1. If you are installing flares on the front of your Z and have to cut away part of the fender. I'd be interested in your scraps. I have a 280Z that I'm doing body work on now, and find that a previous own cut away the edge of my front fenders to clear some aftermarket wheels with fat tires on them. I can't find patch panels, so believe your scraps may be my answer. I'm in the Pacific Northwest (Walla Walla), so nearby would be great. Let me know. Thanks.
  2. I'm pretty sure my alternator has a bad diode, and it's only 65 amps, so I plan on replacing it. I just ordered a Vintage Air a/c and intend to add a hefty sound system--both of which will require more power than the stock 280Z ate (the a/c and heater uses electric servo controls rather than vacuum that the stock system used), so I'm thinking of ordering a 100-amp or larger alternator. The choices are overwhelming. Anyone care to steer me to the right choice? Cost is a facotr.
  3. The proper U-joint flange from JTR (the DAT-110-2 flange version) arrived in the mail--a nice piece, and I swapped it out for the improper one the previous owner had on it. Mated perfectly without any drama whatsoever. Tightening the four bolts that hold the flange to the differential is tedious, with two open-end wrenches achieving about a 1/16th turn at a time, but it's in . I finished rebuilding the brakes yesterday with the help of my son (who drove over from the Seattle area, about five hours from here). Wonderful father's day gift--two masked men getting grimy doing brakes on a car preci
  4. Great help, everyone. Thanks. I measured carefully and then spoke on the phone with someone at JTR. It is the DAT 110-2 flange I need. So, another $85.00 into this never-ending project, and I should have the driveshaft and differential properly mated.The man at JTR said they have it on hand, so it should ship on Saturday. With new brakes on all four corners, that should take care of the moving parts needed to move this thing down the road. A close look at the differential reveals no bolts around the axle holes and a rectangular bar across the bottom of the c
  5. Thanks, I'll go out and inspect the differential more closely--sounds as if the bolts around the axle holes are the clue. And I need to make some careful measurements to ensure that part is the one I need. Always a challenge working on these old things--especially when some PO had creative engineering notions.
  6. New Zed, Thank you. Both links are very helpful. Looks like I need the DAT110 flange, but before I order it I need to go back under the car (for the million and first time) to take careful measurements to ensure it is what I need. My 280Z is a '77 built with auto transmission. The u-joint does disassemble with clips, so it may be the converted Chevy part per the JTR manual. Your first link shows that the flange is on a spline, so I doubt it'll need a puller. And that's good. But nothing is simple. I have the rear drums and brake parts off, so I won't be able to set
  7. I bought a partially done project--a relatively rust-free 280Z with what appears to be a rebuilt Vortec V-8. Those are the good things I can say. This car had once had another engine in it, the hood had a cutout section where there may have been a blower sticking through, and in the glove box were several drag-strip timing sheets in the 12s (so if there was a supercharger, on it it wasn't all that effective). The seller said that the original engine blew, someone bought it and was installing this engine and then ran out of steam. She bought it and thought her boyfriend could finish it, but fro
  8. Are you talking about something sold by John's or outlined in his book? I'm about ready to install A/C and have been looking at Vintage Air Gen. II mini units (the one with heat and defrost), but so far I haven't heard back from the nearby supplier on a few questions. So, I too would like to see photos of solutions and feedback on what works best.
  9. Okay, out with the volt/ohm meter. I'll dig in and find something. And after that, on to the brakes. I'm getting close enough to visualize starting this thing.
  10. Anyone have suggestions for sources of switched power other than cigarette lighter circuit? I kinda hate to pull that source out to the engine bay, since I may need it for something in the future in the cockpit.
  11. Thanks, JHM. Good point about only cooling the fluid in the radiator. Maybe there would be some block cooling due to percolation (the strategy the early Model T Fords used), but for a big hunk of iron like the GMC V8, probably negligible. So it makes sense to look for switched power. I can pull it off the cigarette lighter circuit, but are there other sources folks use?
  12. I'm back at work on this project, and nearing the end of wiring hell--but I have two issues hanging and would like advice. If this C-19 keeps me close to home for a couple more months, I just may get this thing on the road. I'll post a couple photos that show how I solved the earlier issue. I used a heavy-gauge wire and ran around the front. It's protected and out of the way. And I got rid of the fusible links with four robust fuses per some write-ups in this forum. I mounted four relays for high and low beams, ignition and starter. I was about the wire in a
  13. These projects take time, so if you are paying the mechanic, and insist on doing all you've outlined, I think labor will eat up all that budget and still not be done--with the parts to come on top of that. I'm working on a 280Z with a 350 engine that someone had tried to drop into it (I've had to redo almost everything). I'm using a 2004R tranny (beefed up to handle a lot more horsepower than my engine will ever produce). I've had to refurbish the dash--they are all cracked, so expect that. I'm going to order a Vintage Air A/C this summer. I had looked for a car with the factory A/
  14. I just downloaded the Tremec Tool Box app. Terrific--saved me a pile of time. And I am certain it is more accurate than the magnet-base angle finder I bought at Harbor Freight. This should be a sticky.
  15. Michael, Thanks for the comments, but when I made one singe change, problems cascaded. I had spoken with someone at Vintage Air, the manufacturer of the AC system I will install, and he suggested that if the compressor is placed on the passenger side, routing of hoses will be easier. So without enough thought, I decided to switch the standard GM configuration. Main issue is that the valve covers are of course staggered, and it is the driver's side that is forward. I do have the long water pump and a newer, shorter version of the alternator, but at you can see in one of the pho
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