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Showing results for tags 'subframe'.
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So I came across a hell of a deal on an s13 rear sub frame and ended up picking it up for $10 ! I've seen a few threads on this topic so don't think I haven't done my research it's just that they were all older threads and I didn't feel like resurrecting it from its hibernation. Now a few of my buddies told me that it should bolt in with little to no modification/fabricating. I know also then you could run more recent brakes (Z32 all day baby) and also have an easier platform to a 5 lug swap and better differentials. Some insight on if this will work and if it will the steps it would take. Thanks guys! - Grayson -
whats up everyone, so I bought a 73 2400z project, the previous owner started to swap a z32 rear sub frame but didn't complete it. After looking through Mull's project HUGO, it looks like he used 2" square tubing for the sub frame mounts. So my plan was to build the sub frame mounts out of 2x.120" square tubing, and connect the rear sub frame to front with 2x3x.083" tubing. Stock ls1 is going in now, but have plans for a 6.0 turbo making between 600-650whp Would this be appropriate for the power I plan to make? The car will be media blasted after I finish the subframe/frame rails, then primed and any major rust will be repaired. Basically I want to build it right the first time so I don't have to tear it all down in the spring. This forum is awesome and filled with so much helpful info! Thank You!
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I've been contemplating using a pre-smog body mated entirely to the suspension and running gear of a very modern car. I've drawn out plans, taken photos of my own Supras and 240Z while on stands, measured, compared, etc. This is still on the drawing board. The goal, of course, is to find the easiest/cheapest connection point between old and new, with a limited budget - maybe $8K. This budget is only for a drivable car that is complete using substantially used equipment. Blueprinting an engine, updating turbo system and control, dyno tuning, suspension upgrades, and all such expenses would wait until the proof-of-concept is reliably on the road for a while. Here's the plan, in general: Shell of one body, subframes of another, maybe floor & firewall of the subframe donor, steering & dash may be from subframe donor, front and rear fascia & body electrical of either a good cosmetic choice, or the same as the subframe donor, engine may match subframe donor (meaning only two designs are involved) or could be entirely unrelated. Exact combination depends on many factors. To all NaySayers: Here's someone who did it. He chose a Volvo P1800 body, a Lexus SC400 as complete donor, and required some tube framing. He took two years in his garage to get it road-worthy, starting without blueprints but just cutting the cars up and doing it. Kudos for pulling it off: http://www.pro-touring.com/general/member-pro-touring-projects/got-volvo-73794.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/548803-volvo-body-swap-build.html Datsun examples worth considering: S30 shell, subframes and additional equipment (maybe entire floor like the Volvo) come from a 350Z/G35/370Z; engine coudl be a VQ35DE, VH45DE, or SR20-DET as best examples. To maintain 350Z geometry (which wins autocross) one must either extend the nose (tube frame) giving even more room for the engine without crossmember conflict and better weight distribution, or move the rear wheel wells back relative to the body, placed much as they are on a 350Z (low overhang). 260Z/280Z 2/2 (2+2) - unpopular body, but the wheelbase happens to approximate several modern options. The 350Z theme could be used, but here's another good combination: due to Japanese tax incentives, the Lexus IS300 is narrowed, and therefore a very close match to use as subframe and floor donor (and additional equipment, depending on fitment), with either the stock 2JZ-GE VVTi from the IS300 (reuse all the wiring, gauges, and everything stock), 1UZ-FE V8 (perhaps using SC400 as donor instead for simplicity, though wider body), GR series V6, 2UR-GSE (IS-F engine, not in my price range but certainly worth a mention), and other engine options. Datsun 1200 (B110) shell, Mazda Miata subframes (supposedly easy to work with, made for more weight than this finished project, good match of geometry, dead engine Miatas with suspension upgrades can be bought cheap), SR20DET, CA18DET, VQ35DE, or even the Frontier RWD QR25DE since stock power would be more than ample for a 2000lb car. For that matter, an "old school" engine might be used. Engine/transmission could be from any other donor; any small high-tech 4-banger that has a modern intercooled turbo kit available. Obviously any of these could also take the GM LS1/T56 or newer with suspension mods, but I've focused entirely on Japanese (though still mix brands). So the topic is... Could I do similar to the Volvo/Lexus project using a pre-smog Datsun and whatever donor seems the best match? I concurrently am asking a question about fabrication cost on another thread, asking if outsourcing the fabrication to Mexico or further south could get the metal-work done cheaply but well.
