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Showing results for tags 'valves'.
Found 4 results
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I finally got the chance to take off the valve cover and check the valve lash clearances and I noticed a strange consistency with my measurements. I have measured every exhaust valve clearance to be exactly .009mm and every intake valve clearance was between .004-.006mm except for one. The one valve was too tight for the smallest feeler gauge which was .004. To measure, I used a feeler gauge to feel for the highest gauge where it could slide between the cam and the lash pad while the lobes were facing straight up. This was also done with a cold engine. Now, I know the stock clearances are .008mm and .010mm when cold, but my engine has been modified. I am unaware of the exact specs, but my camshaft (E30 Japan) says "Americam 060 1" on the end of it and the PO stated it had been bored/ported at some point. Regardless of the modifications, the clearances should be much higher than .004mm-.006mm on the intake valves, correct? The only reason my awareness has been raised is the consistency of my measurements. Could there be a reason the PO or a previous tuner to have set the intake clearances that low? Or were they likely properly set at one point, but over time have all evenly deteriorated to their current state? Edit: Car is a 1973 240z with an L24 and E88 head
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I'm trying to diagnose a few things on my 75 280z 2+2, and I'm wondering if they might be related. Any help would be appreciated. Also, does anyone know why the section of my camshaft above cylinder #2 is red? Video. In summary, I can't seem to get power out of my engine. It used to run "great", but now I can barely get the car over 30mph. I ran a compression test, fearing a blown head gasket, but though the readings aren't great, I would have expected to get over 30mph with them (1: 170, 2: 156, 3: 167, 4: 169, 5: 160, 6: 165). That #2 cylinder seemed especially low, so I ran it with a tsp of oil in the cylinder, and no change - still 156. My vacuum is measuring low at about 13 in of Hg. I replaced all the old vacuum tubing, but it's still running low, even with most subsystems' vacuum lines blocked off. Fuel is spraying well out of all injectors. Fuel pressure is at 38 psi with the fuel pump on, but engine off, then drops down to ~30 psi when idling. Using a timing light, I adjusted the distributor til the engine was at exactly 10 degrees by the timing mark. I lashed the valves back in the day at cold, but I definitely hear a clicking from the engine that I don't love. Based on that and everything above, I imagined that I must have just screwed up the lash, so I opened the valve cover and checked, but no, the lash was exactly where I left it. So I don't know. Any pointers, ideas, or other debug steps would be appreciated. And yeah, if anyone knows why that section is red on the camshaft, I'd love to know! Thanks everyone. Valves in action
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I brought out my camera and thought I would take some photos of the inside of my L24. Its almost stock. Tell me what you think...
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I have a P90a head (Solid lifters) I want to upgrade with larger valves I have found out that I can increase the size by 1mm on the inlet valve and 1,5mm on the exhaust valve without having to change the valve seats. So the question is where can I by oversize valves ? UPDATE: I have found these valves for my engine: http://datsunspirit.com/shop/dsi-big-valves/ But the stem length is to long for my use, needs to be original length. Other than that they would have been perfect. and http://www.ferrea.com Wish thay had 1,5mm exh. valves Anyplase else that I should check out ?
