Jump to content
HybridZ

Jazz86

Members
  • Content Count

    18
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

Jazz86 last won the day on January 9

Jazz86 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Jazz86

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Los Angeles

Recent Profile Visitors

2518 profile views
  1. Yeah that seems like a much better proposition! I was looking into doing that instead. Though my 240z is a 1973 which is the odd year I am not sure there is a center split for the rear brake lines. It should be the same system on a 260z and 280z. But I would love to run a line from the center split directly to the caliper instead of dealing with the OEM hard-line routing. Onwards to more projects. The Zcardepot kit seems to have the same issues as your kit did from years back. Food for thought! Thank you sir!
  2. Hello HybridZ! My 240z recently seized up its drums at the track and I thought it is time to convert to a disc brake. I went with the kit from Zcardepot and ended up adding some parts of my own as well to make it work. Here is my review and headaches and pointers from installing this kit. I will go though the process and when the issues occur will be written in chronological order. GOOD POINTS WILL BE HIGHLIGHTED IN BLUE. MEH I AM NOT MAD NOR PLEASED IN GREEN. BAD POINTS WILL BE HIGHLIGHTED IN RED. 1. Removing the Stock Drums There are tons of write ups on this. I chose to cut the back plate because I will never really go back to drums, and I have had it with the drums seizing or messing up or not adjusting right, and messing up my brake points. OEM brake lines were easy to remove since I soaked them in PB. Clips were easy with pliers, and a wrench. 2. Bolting up the ZcarDepot bracket. THE GOOD There is really only one way to bolt up the bracket and Zcardepot has many photos and write ups on this part. So here is a photo from their website(no copywrite infringement intended 😊) Both the stock bolts work and the new JNC bolts that Zcardepot supplies. 3. Bolting up the Calipers Clean up the hub and slide the rotor on. Put a lug nut on and hold the rotor to the hub surface. Now the rotor spins in line with the hub surface. With the whole caliper try bolting up to the zcar bracket. THE MEH, the calipers needed to be shimmed on the driver side caliper in order to center the rotor in the middle of the caliper slot. The passenger side is okay and did not need any shims at all. I have installed willwoods on several cars and they also required shims to get the caliper and rotors inline. SOOO thinking I would rather have to shim the caliper outward than having to grind the back plate or caliper retainer. 4. Hooking up the brake hose (hose is the flexible bit, hardline is the solid metal bit) The brake hose used are some 240sx rear brake hose, I recommend a stainless braided hose. I had some 240sx braided hose sitting from my older projects so I used those instead and they are DOT, but for a 240sx. THE BAD the idiot installing the kit ME 😂 This was my problem, caused by me but you might run into a similar issue with the normal rubber hose provided. The brake hose are quite short for the application and I recommend a brake hose that is at least 15inches long end to end. The 240sx brake hose is 12 inches end to end. The good thing is the 240sx brake hose is just long enough to clear all the critical points. 5. The handbrake.... THE BAD THE PAIN THE STRUGGLE Everything was going smoothly, up until this portion of the install. Trying to get the oem handbrake to work with the 240sx calipers. There are two options now. If you have the oem 240sx handbrake brackets (rare) you will need to make an adapter plate to link the 240sx caliper handbrake hook to the 240z handbrake cable. Here is a picture from a nice man who has a page on how to install the 240sx rear brakes from way back when. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/zbrakeupgrade.htm If you have the Zcardepot 240sx handbrake brackets (provided with the kit) you still need to modify a few things. I have both but I chose to go with the zcardepot handbrake bracket. On the OEM 240z handbrake there is a flat tab, that flat tab has to sit behind the flat of the caliper handbrake bracket. The Zcar depot brackets are shorter than the 240sx OEM handbrake bracket, this makes is possible to simply hook them up. BUT HERE COMES THE BAD the driver side bracket was too long and I could never get that tab behind the flat of the zcardepot handbrake bracket. The passenger side zcardepot bracket was perfect, and the 240z OEM handbrake fit perfectly. I ended up using some shaft collars on the oem handbrake to hold the handbrake tab on the driver side. 6. CONCERNS JUSTIFIED After having bolted up everything I am really concerned with a few things. 1. The bracket for the handbrake is really close to the chassis and the OEM brake hardline. 2. The handbrake cables being too close to the drive shaft. I know you can swap sides and it fixes it, but I just used a zip tie and held the oem cable to the mustache bar. As its turned out I the bracket made contact with the mountings. here is a photo of what happened when I compressed the suspension. THE SOLUTION COMES IN THE FORM OF TWO THINGS. 1. THE BRACKETS NEED TO BE PUSHED TO THE REAR OF THE CAR AND THEN BOLTED 2. BUMP STOPS NEED TO BE THERE AT LEAST 1INCH TO KEEP THE HANDBRAKE BRACKETS FROM MUNCHING YOUR BRAKE LINES. Overall, the kit works perfectly fine. There aren't any major issues that cannot be fixed by normal means. The braking is greatly improved, with much better pedal feel and heat capacity. I am running the 280zx master cylinder as well, so that helps. BRAKE balance is just as good as properly adjusted drums, I will lock up the fronts a touch earlier than the rear, but all 4 wheels will lock up with R comp tires on the car. The rear of the Z gets a few mm increase in width because the oem drums are not as thick as the rotor. The kit gets a 7.5/10. A passing grade.
  3. Very interesting input. Sadly I have not dynoed my 3.0 motor. Very interesting, my misfire was around the exact same RPM range. This is definitely something to look into since you have a large torque drop at the same RPM. I am currently rebuilding my MSD unit with a few of my friends. I was told, that it might NOT be my failed MSD that was causing my misfire, rather an electronic noise issue or odd frequencies. Personally I would love to test the MSD box for high speed triggering and see if there is a drop off or maybe a timing delay in the system. If only I had access to my old college electrics class equipment. So far things I am planning to rule out and test 1. Bad capacitors in my MSD unit (currently dissecting) 2. Electronic noise/interference (solved with either capacitor or resistor or a high pass or low pass filter) 3. MSD timing delay, so maybe there is an input out put delay from the trigger and box (simple fix advance timing more/high risk of detonation) I do know that MSD had a special box that will delay the spark a little in the case of high boost or nitrous, and that box is meant to retard timing.
  4. Hello good folks at hybridz. Time to share my bittersweet experience with my MSD street fire ignition. In one phrase: "Sweet, but not to last" I bought the MSD ignition after all the things people were praising it for. I was sugared into the idea that my 240z needed a special spicy shocky sparky super smash MSD ignition. In all honesty for 3 months it worked wonderfully. However, after 3 months the MSD unit showed horrible signs of failure. 1. Misfires from 1000-3000 rpm. When cruising around town, normal driving the engine will have a few farts and coughs. 2. High RPM MISFIRE, the engine would start to "break up" at any rpm over 4500rpm. The engine felt like it had an imposed rev limiter by not firing. NOT the MSD's rev limiter, that was working fine(easy test) 3. Odd idling, the engine would idle around 2000 rpm, then 600rpm then it would have problems starting . 3 months the unit started to fail... 8 months the unit stopped firing all together. MSD probably built this unit to fail right after the warranty. I had to rewire my ignition on the side of the road to fix it. Next thing I know my pooch of a 3.0 motor now is driving great. I had built this sweet 3.0 motor for road racing but what is the point if the engine could not rev past 5000rpm. THE DARN MSD was the weak link, and prevented me from using the power that was hidden past 5000rpms. Now the engine revs to 8000rpm no problem. HIGH RPM MISFIRES CAUSED BY MSD IGNITION
  5. I have been having so many issues tuning my triple OER/SK dcoe 40 carbs. I recently bought these carbs secondhand. I have been running into issues with idle speed, and synchronizing. The car runs very rough and the engine shakes quite a bit. Problem #1 I attempted to synchronize all three of the carbs but ran into many issues. The carb (#2) in the middle seems to be drawing in a lot of air compared to the carb (#1) and carb (#3). This is with all the carbs set to the same idle speed screw distances. I suspect that carb #2 has a bent throttle shaft or butterfly, but the butterfly opens smoothly with no obstructions. I also checked for vacuum leaks and there doesn't seem to be any. Problem #2 When I put the synchronize tool onto any of the carbs the idle drops and the carb drools fuel everywhere, like a toddler drooling. I am not sure if that is normal or not. Every carb seems to do that when I hold the tool up to the throat. Also when I hold up the sync tool to carb#2 the engine almost dies out. Desperately, trying to find a solution I have to increase the idle speed of #1 and #3 in order to match the flow of #2. This resulted in a super high idle speed of about 2000rpm. Problem #3 Carb #2 seems to also be running much leaner than the others. I had to turn the idle mixture screws a few more turns than #1 and #3. please any advice is welcome.
  6. Tried blue locktite on them and they seem to be holding on well. If those ever come loose again I will get new lock washers and clean up the threads a lot more thoroughly. As for the tire letters those were using one of those tire makers, they tend to yellow and fade the harder I drive. However, all my friends seem to like the slightly faded look, they say it gives a touch of patina ... as if the car didn't have enough patina.
  7. The car is running some custom springs on the front it sits approximately 1.2 inches lower than stock, and I have tokico lowering springs 5020R rear and that sits 1.0 inches lower than stock. Strut cartridges are kyb struts. I am running poly LCA bushings on the front and solid and delrin on the rear.
  8. Hey guys, So I recently bought some goodies for my 240z and I thought I'd share some of my experiences with these products. All from T3 or technotoytuning; I got their NCRA (negative camber roll center adjusters) and their camber/toe bushings as they seem beefier that the ones offered from MSA. Starting with the NCRA, I wanted to gives these a try to gain some much needed camber on the front axle of my 240z. The installation was pretty straight forward, much like your normal bumpsteer spacer installation with a few added steps. I already had bumpsteer spacers and those were great but I wanted some camber and these did just the trick. Effects of NCRA: 1. Camber has jumped from -0.7(stock with 1.2 inch lowering) to -2.5 2. Front ride height has decreased about 0.7 inches (this has to do with a longer lever and a different angle with the top of the strut tower) But the shock travel is nearly the same. 3. The steering response is a lot better and the car turns in great 4. Braking has been negatively effected as I lock up my front wheels quicker (smaller contact patch) 5. corning grip has gone up a lot (though it has become more of a handful to drive) Moving on to the Camber/toe bushings. These are really poorly designed, almost an after thought from T3. But they can be made to work. The installation took a bit of time because you have to take off the traverse bolts, and fiddle with the mounts. I did not have to take off the mounts completely, I loosened them enough to slip the bushings through. After the install I found out about how little thought was put into designing them. The bushings facing the front of the car has almost zero room to access the for adjustment. The bushings facing the rear are easy to adjust. However, here comes my struggles with these stupid bushings. They are solid aluminum with delrin inserts. These damn things just vibrate the crap out of those traverse bolts and they always get loose, thankfully they will still hold any measurement because they are clamped down by the control arm mounts. I am still constantly having to tighten them and you can feel when they get loose, because the rear will start to loose grip and you can hear clunking. Unless I can get my traverse bolts 100% tight I currently have a slightly "variable wheel base" . Effects of camber bushings: 1. Toe is fully adjustable to 0.7 toe out or in biased on your preferences 2. Camber is tricky to adjust as camber adjusts with toe and they are proportional. Max camber I could get was about -2.0but this gave me really stupid toe. 3. bitch to adjust front facing bushings 4. makes the ride stiffer as these are almost solid bushings I took the car to get aligned and the shop guy couldn't figure out anything with my 240z... prob to old for him to know how it worked and yet a 21 year old knows. So what do you do when sloppy mechanics get their hands on your car. you fix it yourself. TIME FOR DIY HOME ALIGNMENT hot rod style. I will make a post on how to do this. But take my word for it, this type of alignment is not bad at all. I had a different friend check for me using a modern laser machine and he came back to me with the shock of his life and said "you did THIS accurate of an alignment in your garage, tying to put me outta business haha"? Final Alignment specs: Front: Toe Driver side: -0.07 degrees (toe out) Camber Driver side: -2.5 degrees Toe Passenger: -0.07 degrees (toe out) Camber Passenger: -2.3 deg Caster Driver: 3.0 Degrees Caster Pass: 2.7 Degrees Rear: Toe Driver: +0.12 deg (toe in) Camber driver: -1.5 deg Toe Pass: +0.13 def (toe in) Camber Pass: -1.3 deg
  9. SO, more of an update I drove the car around and it is 100X better than before. The car is a lot more comfortable. Back then the coils would bind and I would loose grip and the car would simply under-steer. Also my braking feel seems to have improved since there is actually suspension travel on the front. If anyone has problems with their tokico springs (very few) please give this a try. I just used my tiny little dremel to slowly grind away without heating up the metal too much. I will continue to drive this set up on multiple road surfaces and report back. Recalculating my spring rates I seem to have made the front end stiffer tokico Spring rate : 140lbs/inch Moog 80099 CUT: 160lbs/inch This does put a bit of fear in me since I am running equal rates front and rear but I will continue road testing and track testing this setup.
  10. My tokico springs would bind before I would hit my bump stop. I seem to have gotten the batch that had the issues with coil bind. See my first attached photo, there is very little room and I marked the travel distance. The car had less than an inch of bump travel, since the coils would lock up. Yes, I have bump stops installed they are super small and tucked at the top.
  11. I did have that in my calculations but I never thought to post it since my messy chicken scratch is almost unreadable . My car is a s30 with 240z strut tubes and 240z hubs.
  12. That was my problem when I was running the old tokico lowering springs. I like the height but the springs would have less than an inch before coil binding, meaning my spring rate when to infinity. I bought them for about 50 dollars on amazon.
  13. Hey, everyone I finally got to finalizing my spring cutting. I had to cut an additional half coil to get my ride height back to what it was with the tockico lowering springs. It sits exactly the same as it did before switching to Moog springs. If any of you want I can post my calculations.
  14. Like many people with the tokico lowering springs have the issue of the front binding. The first photo is the red tokico 5020F that has less than one inch of bump travel. It rode worse than solid Pogo stick. So I looked far and wide for a fix. The rear end of the car is fine, tons of travel. I got the dimensions and the tokico springs and the spring rates. I found out a few springs that fit and found that MOOG 80099 fit. But they need to be cut to match the 140lbs/in rate of the tokicos. I cut the first dead coil and 2 active coils. And if my math is right the rate is close. I will update it when it settles after a nice long drive. (11,250,000*Wire diameter^4)/(8*numberofcoils*meancoildiameter^3)=spring rate first photo: old wornout tokico 5020F second photo: side by side moog spring and tockico third photo: cut moog spring fourth photo: on the car
×
×
  • Create New...