Could 280zx conversion be cheaper than the 260Z conversion??

[Guest Anonymous]

Alright,although I had found a wonderful

260z I really liked, the guy wanted $450

for it (I had misunderstood him before when

I posted about it and thought he had said

$300)

 

However, I found a nice 83 280zx 2+2

for only $250. I would rather have the 260,

but my wallet is screaming for the 280.

 

Anyways, I compiled a list of all the parts

I needed for the 260 conv. I'd like to know

how the required parts change with the

280zx. For example, can I use a larger

diameter harmonic balancer than 7.25", or

could I use a mechanical fuel pump? As it

looks to me now, the actual conversion may

be cheaper with the 280zx than with the Z.

Am I wrong here?

 

Here is the list (not including car or

engine):

 

tranny (I have a t-10 four speed)

 

corvette bell-housing

 

C. Slave Cylinder

 

C. Master Cylinder

 

Alternator, internal reg.

 

GM rubber motor mounts (forgot part#)

 

clutch assembly

 

tranny mount

 

hood latch bracketry

 

JTR spacers/setback plates (How does this change with zx other than the elimination

of the spacers?)

 

Driveshaft with chevy u-joints

 

Driveshaft adapter flange

 

Electric fan

 

Headers (What kind will work in 83 with power steering? I can fab some if I need to)

 

7.25" Harmonic Balancer (can I use a larger diameter in zx? I'd like to use the stock one from my 1962 327.)

 

Electric fuel pump (Can I use the stock

Chevy mechanical one with ZX)

 

Fuel pump safety switch (I don't need this if I use a mechanical pump, right?)

 

Starter #5 from JTR book, one from an 82-92 V-8 camaro with auto tranny. (Are there other

cheaper starters I can use in the zx, or is

this still the one I need?)

 

HEI Distributor

 

153 tooth flywheel

 

Radiator from 84-86 camaro (can I use the

stock ZX radiator, its bigger than the Z one)

 

R-200 diff+mounting stuff (I don't need this

with the 280zx do I)

 

Throttle Cable clevis from Mazda

 

Throttle Cable from 78-85 Monte Carlo

 

280zx Hood Safety Latch (It will be on the

280zx)

[Peternell]

I'll address the which car question and leave out the differences on conversion (cause I just don't know) I like must others like a "good deal", but your only talking about a difference of $200! Also you said you "really like" the 260, but just call the ZX "nice"(but it probably has a great personality).

Sounds like you want the 260.

 

Over and over on this site its been stressed spend the money on a good rust free (or as close as you can get) car cause you'll be bucks ahead in the end. SO, what's the condition of each car? That may help make your decision.

 

When all's said and done do you want the 2+2 or a two seater. I wanted a 67 Chevelle for about two years and passed up several deals (it wasn't easy) on other 64, 65, 66, 68 & 69 Chevelle's before I bought my current car. After dumping countless $ and hours into the project I'm SURE glad I didn't settle for another car just cause it was a deal.

 

Finally if smog testing is an issue, several states are adopting California's rolling 25 year rule. 260 = no smog test 83 280ZX = smog test for 7 years.

[Guest Anonymous]

isnt the 62 327 balancer a 6 1/4 diameter.....hummm sounds like you may want to check that 327 out a little closer...but i have always liked the 240-260 alot better than the zx....its easier to throw money into a car that you like, rather than just settle for....but its not my money

[Guest Anonymous]

Wiring, Fasteners and Misc. This may seem trivial but it does add up, specially the Misc.. To be honest, if 200.00 separates the car you like vs the car you'd take then your swap is got a budget problem already. I'm not trying to discourage, but I'll just say that the figure you're shooting for will raise 10 - 50% (depends on how badly you miscalculate the cost, uh mine was toward the higher number ). I can say that with 100% certainty. As long as you know that going in and have budgeted for it then why not start with the car you 'like'. Seems only sensible don't ya know.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[Brad-ManQ45]

Correct me if I'm wrong guys - ROSS?

 

It's the setback plates that you won't need (just spacers their thickness). You will need the spacers used with the JTR kit.

 

There isn't any setback on the ZX conversion, as there is 3-4" less room between firewall and front crossmember.

 

I would imagine this means that you can use a regular size harmonic balancer.

 

Look at it this way - you're gonna spend MONEY on getting something EXACTLY the way you want it - $200 is nada.

 

If you want the early body style, best advise is to go with that.

 

I don't have that quandry - I have an '83 ZXT and bought a '75 Z to put a SBC w/auto in.

 

Two reasons - I LOVE the body style, and (in Atlanta, GA area) emissions is no concern if the car is older than '25 years.

 

My '83 will have to be tested until 2008! It's already putting out ~240 hp, but it's a 5 speed and Atl traffic is no fun.

[BLKMGK]

Lone, Brad - my thoughts exactly - in fact I had an aborted post here earlier that said so. $200 is chicken feed and in my case was the cost of a starter I ended up ditching!

 

Pick the car you want and can avoid emissions with Spacers, we don't need no stinking spacers Seriously, several of us have ditched the spacers and not needed the space they provide. It seems they're only good for providing space between the carb and hood and might introduce driveline angle issues....

[Guest Anonymous]

The 'nice' car is actually a running

car with a good paint job, good tires,

and no body rust and repaired floor panels.

A good stereo, good interior, ect.

 

The 260 has no body rust, but the floor

panels are ate up,the interior is trash,

it has no wheels or tires, there is a

major dent in the roof, the hood release

cable broke, and it needs a starter.

Oh, and the stereo/speakers are gone

and the windshield is cracked.

 

I don't really have a preference of one

body style over the other, but I am

worried about the 2+2 not performing

as much.

 

My main issue is cost. I'm in high school,

so I don't ever have a lot of money

(this is going to be an along and along

project). My Granddad was a Chevy drag

racing mechanic for over 20 years, and

he has thus accumulated many GM parts

that I can bum off of him (he's retired).

Thats where I'm getting my motor and tranny.

My Granddad's best friend happens to own

and operate a junk yard, so I can get used

parts pretty cheap as long as they aren't

major/popular items.

 

So my question remains, which car should I

go with as the cheapest, and which as the

best (performance wise). My Grandad said

to just get the one I can afford and not

to worry about wieght. He's going to build

my 327 to 400hp and custom make my headers.

(He's gonna make them in the drag style

where they come out of the car's sides

where there will be a metal plate that

I can screw on and off to block the exhaust,

and after that the pipes will go back to the

mufflers. That way if I run the car on the

strip, I can remove the plates and have

a totally free exhaust, but I can put the

plates on and drive the car on the street

without a lot of noise, cool eh? I'll sketch

up a diagram if your interested)

 

Anyway, back to the subject, which car should

I get, and can somebody answer me about the

parts?

[Guest Anonymous]

Oh, and I'm in South Carolina,

so no Emissions shit to worry about.

 

And being as the majority of the population

of South Carolina is farmers, I doubt

there will be any testing for the next

25 years unless on the federal level.

 

We actually had inspections back in 95,

and they did away with it because of a

popular majority vote. hehehe.

[RPMS]

I don't think there's enough cost difference to make the cost of conversion the deciding factor. If a few hundred dollars will ultimately decide whether your project takes off or not, then you're in for a rough ride building a V8 Z. In the past six months, I've seen over and over again that almost nobody on this list has come in under budget. The quote I most often see goes something like "figure out how much your car should cost, then double that amount." I don't mean to discourage you, but I want to help put your situation into perspective.

 

The ZX is *probably* a better candidate for a 400 horse engine, because (depending on the model) it will already have an R200 differential, stiffer chassis, and more sound deadening. (did the ZX come with CV joints?)

 

>>The 260 has no body rust, but the floor panels are ate up

 

If the 260 has no floorpans and good body panels, it probably is hiding at least some bondo underneath what's left of the paint. I'd be highly suspicious. $200 for new floorpans if you weld them in yourself, $600 if you have the job done. Or you could just get Grandpa to bend some generic sheetmetal and weld it in for you for $10.00.

 

>>the interior is trash,

 

That might cost some bucks to fix. But then again, seat covers, a dash cap, a bottle of Armour All and four cans of vinyl paint will set you back $200 and make most interiors presentable again.

 

>>it has no wheels or tires,

 

$200 for decent takeoff tires on $100 junkyard rims that you can clean up to look really nice.

 

>>there is a major dent in the roof

 

Cheap Bodywork - $250 IF that's the only place that it needs bodywork (doubtful). Depending on where the dent is, you maybe could use a strategically placed Pep Boys sunroof - $179. Cheapest paint = $200.

 

>>the hood release cable broke

 

$10 for a used one, plus the headache of getting the hood off!

 

>>and it needs a starter.

 

$25 junkyard item. But if you're gonna stuff in a V8, who needs it?!?

 

>>Oh, and the stereo/speakers are gone

 

$200 at the pawn shop if you can install them yourself.

 

>>and the windshield is cracked.

 

I was quoted $128 for a new one, installed, if I supplied the gasket. Pretty cheap.

 

So my best guess would be that you're looking at:

$450 initial cost

$200 - floorpans

$200 - interior

$300 - wheels + good tires

$450 - paint/body

$200 - stereo

$130 - windshield

$50 - miscellaneous parts

 

and your $450 260Z now costs $2,000 to bring it up to the level of the $250 ZX. And the ZX had better A/C, which you'll appreciate in humid South Carolina.

 

My .02.

 

[ September 13, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ]

[BLKMGK]

Do the ZX, it requires less work. "Lesser performance"? As quick as these cars are I wouldn't worry about it too much I also wouldn't get real fancy with the headers, get a set of Hooker block huggers or whatever th eZX guys say fit and have at it.

 

However - one caveat to all of this. You mentioned the ZX having power steering. Check the with guys that have already done the ZX conversion and find out if this will be an issue. I seem to recall that depending on year the steering canbe a real problem. Once you've confirmed this one way or another I think you'll have your answer. Don't get into bodywork and paint unless you absolutely must as it's a black hole money pit if you're not careful.

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

Been BUSY but finally in on this thread:

-you don't typically flow 400hp thru 'manifolds (ie. OEM style).

-I've done my ZXV8 and helped on an Lt1Z, IMO Z's are easier....headers and oilpan/air filter all fit more naturally with decent 1-5/8's hookers clearing nicely

-agreement with all others that $200 is pocket change on such a conversion NO MATTER what connections you have

-was said 400hp is more suited to a ZX for chassis stiffness/R200 etc...if you pick a lighter car you can run a milder motor with same performance, ie. pre 280Z (280Z's are basically same weight as 280ZX, very close), you said $ is a factor so I assume a sweet decent economy 330hp 327 would be driven a lot more by yourself than a 400hp lumpy 327 chugging fuel would? might be a consideration....economy has always been one of mine as my ride gets driven LOTS...

-lastly....you'll likely end up putting far more sweat equity into it than you'd ever planned so pick one you really like in the beginning...like getting married you'll be looking at 'er every morning so may as well pick a pretty one

[Guest Anonymous]

Hey guys, haven't been here in a while. I've been very busy with school and work.

 

A quick answer about the power steering... I don' t think you'll have trouble fitting exhaust manifolds if its an 83. I have an '80 and it had the "power steering gear box" that got in the way. All I had to do though was find some "long" type exhaust manifolds, that actually fit like they were made for this conversion. I looked in the bay of my other 280zx, an 83, and it looked to have a lot more space for different, less compact manifolds - maybe even some shorty headers?

 

gtg to class,

Brian

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks for all the help,

 

I believe I'm going to go with the

280zx being as the body style isn't

that much of a concern to me.

 

That way I won't have to worry about

the differential, ect and I'll come

out better financially. I agree that

200 bucks isn't a lot, but considering

that the 260 will also require a windshield

and wheels and floorpans, ect ect ect,

the 280zx is obviously a better buy.

 

And I'm not concerned about the power

steering, I have a friend with a 280zx

with manual steering, and he would love

to swap the steering units as he would rather

have the power steering, so that would clear

up that problem.

 

My granddad sys that the 2+2 will be

better anyway because the extra rear weight

will help mantain a good weight ratio without

having to invest in aluminum engine parts

(expensive).

 

Anyways, this thing should fly when its done.

 

As to budget, I am one of those meticulous

people who plan out everything before I ever

pick up a wrench. I've read almost every

post on this forum, looked at 20 or so web

sites, and read the JTR book a hundred times cover to cover. So I think that my required

parts list is quite complete (I may have

ommited a few items that I already have).

 

I also am notorious for over-budgeting.

When I budget, I first find the price of the

items I need, I then increase each individual

price by 20 percent and put the adjusted

price in my budget. That 20% on everything

adds up and usually covers whatever I go over

on.

 

I recently converted my 85 300zx to turbo

and rebuilt all the running gear and came

in 500 dollars UNDER-budget. Hehe.

 

If I didn't worry about every dime and

generally behaved like a Scrooge with a HP

addiction, that wouldn't have been possible.

 

Also, economy is not an issue. This is to be

a toy, my 300zx is my daily driver. The v-8

car will be for those weekend cruises, hehe.

 

Thanks All!

 

BTW, ROSS C, could you e-mail me any and all

info on how the 280zx differentiates from the

280/260/240z in wiring and such? I'm

wondering how much it varys from the JTR book

 

Thanks!

[Guest Anonymous]

Oh, my e-mail is cooper@sccoast.net

[BLKMGK]

Dude, you don't need to use the return key except for paragraphs - this allows the text to resize to the window while reading.

 

Sounds like you've got a good plan. The extra 2 seats might come in handy too Keep us posted!