HowlerMonkey Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 I've never had to replace the 1981 sensor but have replaced 5 1982/83 distributors for intermittence issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 (edited) I've never had to replace the 1981 sensor but have replaced 5 1982/83 distributors for intermittence issues. LOL! Im sure all the stock optical units fail in the same way though(I cant remember if the bottom one is optical or hall effect now that I post this). If its heat that helps kill them off, then on the balancer or next to the #1 exhaust port were probably not great places for them. For some reason most folks have issues with the 81 unit. Ive seen the 82/83 CAS fail though. My 81 wasnt intermittent. It had good base/idle timing. The moment you accelerated the RPMs it would kinda work, but bounce around. If you had a crappy timing light you would think you were getting cross talk. It took me a very long time to figure it out. I could not figure out the random missing with the tools and experience I had at that time. Anyway, 300hp is not to hard. Like I said it was really all in the timing and fueling. I started with a F54 non turbo block and bolted the 81 turbo top end to it with all the turbo stuff. I dropped the compression with a 2mm HKS head gasket. The first FelPro gasket I used blew out between #3 and #4 under 13-14psi of boost... before I was even running full boost. So I would recommend running a MLS head gasket. Once I had that in there things were golden and i was able to raise the boost pressure with the compression drop. For any forced induction or high compression build I use MLS now. Edited August 27, 2011 by rayaapp2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSwede Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 Anyway, 300hp is not to hard. Like I said it was really all in the timing and fueling. I started with a F54 non turbo block and bolted the 81 turbo top end to it with all the turbo stuff. I dropped the compression with a 2mm HKS head gasket. The first FelPro gasket I used blew out between #3 and #4 under 13-14psi of boost... before I was even running full boost. So I would recommend running a MLS head gasket. Once I had that in there things were golden and i was able to raise the boost pressure with the compression drop. For any forced induction or high compression build I use MLS now. Speaking of the non turbo block... whats the difference? Does the turbo block have "oil squirters" for the bottom of the pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 I used to think the non-turbos did not have the oil squirters but yesterday I pulled a piston from a 1982 f54 non-turbo shortblock and found that the rods had a hole on the top that the 1981 factory service manual states squirts on the bore and the piston. It's possible that earlier normally aspirated engines did not have them, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 All the L-series motors have that hole in the rod. Even the L24's, which never came factory turbocharged. It's all there for the same reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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