Guest Anonymous Posted August 29, 2000 Share Posted August 29, 2000 Hello, Glad to have finally found a forum to discuss putting Fords into Datuns. I was beginning to think that I was the only one out there who wasn't just buying the JTR or MSA kit and going Chevy. I made up engine and tranny mounts and am thinking of using a shortened '87 Mustang drive shaft. How do you guys adapt your drivelines to the Datsun diff? I am having an adapter plate machined which I think will work very well, but wanted to get other peoples opinions on this also. Good luck to all and thanks in advance for the help. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 29, 2000 Share Posted August 29, 2000 Grinz, this is exactly the type of question that the JTR manual helps you answer. I know some Fordnatics would cringe at having a book that talks about a conversion with a GM (shudder) engine on their bookshelf, but the JTR manual has much information in it that even non Chevy engine converters can use. I'd say even if you are going with the Ford, the JTR manual helps in areas other than engine and transmission. The JTR manual discusses how to adapt a GM driveshaft to the R200 with a simple, NEAPCO adapter. You could use that adapter, with a GM to Ford U-joint (they've been around forever) and a shortened Ford driveshaft. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted August 29, 2000 Share Posted August 29, 2000 I'm doing the same swap- I'm just using a T5 yoke on the JTR-spec driveshaft. Since it's still a T5, the length will still be the same-about 23.5". Easy bolt-on and much sturdier than stock. ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 30, 2000 Share Posted August 30, 2000 Hello, Thanks to both of you for the input. As it happens, I have a very dog eared copy of the JTR book. I'm using lots of their ideas, if for nothing else than to decide what I want done differently. I guess my problem was that I didn't realize that GM and Ford u-joints and driveline components were so easy to combine. But then, that's why somebody invented forums like this. Right? Thanks again for the help. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 30, 2000 Share Posted August 30, 2000 You're welcome, Grinz! I like the idea of taking the GM driveshaft route, with the Ford T-5, and the NEAPCO adapter. Just make sure you pay attention to the driveshaft u-joint angles - equal and less than 3.5 degrees - to stay away from driveline vibrations. This is a common problem for V8Z, if you hadn't heard. I have some stuff about this on my site, with links to a driveline specialist that covers this in better detail than the JTR manual. Check out "Driveline Modifications" on my site (see my .sig below) if you're interested. I hate that V8Z driveline vibration. I've been in two V8Zs that had it pretty bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted August 30, 2000 Share Posted August 30, 2000 I have a 1974 260z with the 5.0 and T-5 installed. I had a driveshaft made at advanced driveline in Orlando. The slip yoke is the stock ford item the adapter flange is the Neapco item used by Pete Paraska and others. The length (U-joint center to U-joint center) is 18.5 inches. With all new parts(even the tube) the price was 190.00. I have been driving the car for about 2 months now and love the 5.0L/ T5 installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 I wish I had found this forum sooner! I just received my custom CNC machined, (stainless steel!) adapter flange. I didn't have to pay for it, but I called in a lot of personal favors to get it made. If I decide to go the NEAPCO flange route, maybe I can turn the other one into an ash tray or something. I didn't investigate this flange sooner because the first line in the JTR book on page 6-2 says "the proper driveshaft uses Chevrolet U-joints at noth ends." I don't know anything about u-joint interchange, etc. So, front to back, I would need a Ford slip yoke, a stock replacement front u-joint, shortened (or new) tube, a Ford to Chevy u-joint, and finally the NEAPCO flange. Right? Does anyond know the part number of this Ford to Chevy u-joint? I'd appreciate the help. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Larry wrote: quote: So, front to back, I would need a Ford slip yoke, a stock replacement front u-joint, shortened (or new) tube, a Ford to Chevy u-joint, and finally the NEAPCO flange. Right? Either that or: -Ford Slip yoke -Ford to Chevy U-joint (sorry I don't have a part number for it, but call a driveline shop and ask them for a Spicer part to do this.) -Shortened driveshaft with chevy yokes welded to each end -Chevy u-joint -Neapco (or nice stainless alternative adapter for Chevy u-joint to Datsun 280Z R200 input flange. Actually, I'd go this way because the Ford U-joint is a large piece, and having that large driveshaft and welded on yoke at the rear will make it a tight fit near the front diff mount. Also, note that the Neapco part mates to the 280Z R200 input flange, but not the larger 300ZX R200 flange. The latter piece won't clear the front diff mount. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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