Jump to content
HybridZ

motor plate for Ford V8 Z?


Guest Anonymous

Recommended Posts

I currently support the engine in my Z with 2 engine plates I made out of 1/4" aluminum plate. I do not have any templates, but if this is the way you want to go, and you have the engine out to where you can get easy access to the front of it, I could talk you through making at least the front plate. I don't think you will need a rear plate unless you are going to do some heavy duty driving (drag racing, etc).

 

Terry Oxandale

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Terry,

 

Is there enough room, using either a front motor plate or Ford mounts on a crossmember farther back to use the shorty late model mustang headers from your estimation? I'm seriously considering a Ford conversion for numerous reasons and was just wondering. They appear to be similarly shaped to the old stock windsor manifolds which I've seen fit on another Ford Z on the net. Any idea?

Another question, your using a hydraulic throwout bearing right? How do you bleed that thing once its all installed inside the bellhousing? I'm thinking of using a hydraulic T.O. bearing and either a Wilwood composite or Howe master cylinder with a 3/4" bore (I have to buy one anyway as I'm converting from a automatic car). Wilwood also makes a pull slave cylinder thats fairly small, but I'm wondering if theres enough tunnel room to use it? Any info would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Lone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lone, the Hydraulic Throw Out bearings have two hoses that come out of the bellhousing - 1 is for the fluid pressure to push the bearing against the clutch hat, and the other is for bleeding. The latter hose has a bleeder fitting in it.

 

------------------

Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project

pparaska@home.com

Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like Pete said, 2 hoses exit the T/O bearing. They are about 10" long. I drilled 2 holes in the bellhousing to exit these hoses. I also used a Girling 3/4" master cylinder which has about 1.125" of travel, which works out great. As far as the plate is concerned. If you only use one plate (front one obviously) it can ride right on top of the OEM Z rubber mounts on the pedestals with the use of simple "L" brackets. This will locate the motor about 1" forward of the firewall, and give you plenty of room for certain types of exhaust. In fact, depending on which side you mount the "L" bracket on the plate you could have several inches of room to play with on the longitudinal spacing of the engine. I believe the shorties will cause some problems with interference with the firewall unless you immediately bend the exhaust downward at the joint, to run under the firewall where your dead pedal is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Great, thanks for the info, that simplifies the mounting scheme I was considering. Might just go with blockhuggers then, not sure I want to cut and reweld headers, may as well build a long set from scratch if I were doing that.

 

Appreciated,

 

Lone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...