King's Evil Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hello All, I been fascinating Datsun cars for years, I've dreamt of getting one and putting a V8 in it. I was finally able to get a decent one for $900 all beat up but it ran, it has a clean title. Can't complain for $900 with another $900 of bonus parts included (280zx motor, struts, louvers, etc). Sold most of the stuff on Craiglist, basically got the Z free. After 6 month of daily driving, some dude hit me at pick n pull with his 2000 Dodge Ram 2500, he wasnt checking his surrounding while I was backing out, causing the clutch to explode after few miles of the impact? I guessing the jolt of the impact shock the drive line system some how. Anyways, I couldn't afford to get the tranny or clutch replaced because the local shop wasn't familiar with Japanese cars. I was able to get ahold of the 1994 Camaro z28 with a LT-1 T56 for a really decent deal, and insurance mostly paid for the Camaro. So I decided to swap it in since I am more familiar with American motors, and parts can be found locally. So I sold the old motor and tranny, cleaned out the engine bay, put the new power horse in.. Now I am working on all the little things. Have some questions for you guys, maybe ya'll could help me out? I have done alot of research out there, talking to people locally, and googling stuff out. Sorry if some of my question is too common, or already had been said on here. I already checked the search box, couldn't find my answers. Since I am building my car with whatever I could get cheap and locally, I tried to MacGyver everything together So I could drive this thing again, it been 5 month of it not driving. I would use most of the old parts, but they are so worn out, leaky, greasy... etc.. I also repaired alot of rust issues on this car, boy it was rusty. Good thing the old motor splash oil everywhere so it doesn't rust too much. I have an new Aluminum radiator been sitting around, it was for my other project, a 1968 Ford Thunderbird, but that thing is long long gone. The radiator is quite big, and I could make it fit on the car angled. I already mounted on the car, put the camaro fans on there with a little bracketing. My question is, can the radiator still cool while it is on a angle? It is sitting about 35 degree, I plan opening the hood with vents so the heat could exhaust out freely while driving and the fans operating. I got one of those coolant sight glass with the steam vent tee from JTR and a radiator filler neck so I could take the air bubbles out while the car is running, and the filler neck could fill the cooling system with enough coolant. I am also doing the wiring on the car, I want the car stock from the interior mostly possible for now, does anyone has some sort of wiring diagram for the ignition key? I am trying to find the hot and run wire so I can have the motor start up with this wire from the key ignition. I am not a fan of the push start button like most people use. I like to put the key in and start it up and go, haha.. Also will the stock rear end (R180 non lsd) will handle the LT-1 for grandma style street driving? I cant afford a nice R200 LSD, I plan saving for one, while I am saving for it, I wanna drive this thing while I do. I already got the drive line made and mounted on the car. Is there a simple way to wire the LT-1 Alternator to the stock wiring on the Datsun? Just simply charge the battery? The Datsun wiring has about 6 wires from the old Alternator while the LT-1 Alternator has two, and a unused plug in port underneath. That all the important questions I have on atop of my head now, more to come while I get the car going. Sorry for my bad english, I was born deaf who could only do Sign Language. This is my first car that I am going to successfully complete, I had so many failed project because of wiring and money issues. I plan not to fail my Dream car. Check out the pictures! I included what it looked like before and as it is now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Also, I have another question, I totally forgot. Is there a way to make the original Datsun Master Clutch cylinder work with the T56? I read about the T56 having a 3/4 Bore and the Datsun is a 5/8 I believe? I read the JTR book that its saying I have to cut the rod on the Datsun Clutch? How does that work? I don't have enough cash to fund for an aftermarket Master clutch for the T56. Thanks for those who ever help out with my questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 This is what I did for my clutch rod.. I took the old master cylinder out and removed the rod. Took the Tilton rod out and istalled the datsun rod. Installed tilton master with datsun rod and adjusted. Took car for a spin and had fun. As far as the alt goes you need to use the port it should be a 1 wire attachment. I'll take pics of it when I get home. If you can afford it I would just get a standalone wiring harness or send yours into http://www.lt1350.com/ and have them build you one. Its well worth the pain of trying to figure out what you want and dont want. The Radiator should still work fine as long as you have your system bled correctly. Also you will need to have the VATS system removed from your ecu or bypass it with a module. (I have one I don't need). any further questions just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Hey Skittle, Thanks for your reply. We talked on youtube about the clutch while ago. For the clutch master cylinder, I only have the old Datsun 5/8 Master cylinder, I did't get the chance to take the Camaro one out, should it be fine with little cutting on the rod? There a Clutch master cylinder on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/T56-T5-Universal-Brake-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Kit-3-4-/130628285584?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6115354942400886564#ht_1891wt_1037 Looks like it would work, I gotta get some 3an fittings and hose to make it work with my T56, pretty pricey when it add up. Please do send couple of pictures of your Alternator set up, possibly a diagram hopefully. The original Datsun wiring had bunch of wires goes into the alt, I don't know which to keep or delete. I know the big red and white wire go to the alt, but there 4 wires left. I heard that the small single wire under the alt where the port is need to be connected to something, I read somewhere that if it isn't hooked up it wont charge. I got my wiring harness from fihotrods.com little pricey but its a good kit, they included the Vats bypass for the fuel pump, and they flashed my computer where there is no smog. I tried to figure out where their big pink wire go to, on the instruction sheet they want it go to the ignition coil feed (this wire comes out of the lt1 coil), I was guessing it goes to the old coil connection, but ain't sure which wire it goes to, my Datsun wiring is a mess, it has 5 wires, two to the Distributor, and two to the coil and one is hanging out. Should I connect that wire to the "+" side on the old coil wire and ground the negative and delete the distributor wrings? The rest of the loose wiring want to go to the battery, and other go to the ignition hot and run on the key. Any idea on where to find the hot and run wire on the key ignition? I also would like to know where I can put the two hoses on the throttle body to? They look like coolant hoses. Should I block them off or run them into something? This is what I did for my clutch rod.. I took the old master cylinder out and removed the rod. Took the Tilton rod out and istalled the datsun rod. Installed tilton master with datsun rod and adjusted. Took car for a spin and had fun. As far as the alt goes you need to use the port it should be a 1 wire attachment. I'll take pics of it when I get home. If you can afford it I would just get a standalone wiring harness or send yours into http://www.lt1350.com/ and have them build you one. Its well worth the pain of trying to figure out what you want and dont want. The Radiator should still work fine as long as you have your system bled correctly. Also you will need to have the VATS system removed from your ecu or bypass it with a module. (I have one I don't need). any further questions just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 That's a pretty extreme angle for a radiator, but I suspect it will be OK for street driving. Like goth says, you need to fab a fill that is the highest point of the system, including all the passages in the heads. Otherwise you will have air in the engine and guaranteed bad results. The R180 will last a while. How long depends on how hard you hit it with the clutch, and how much grip the tires have. With narrow street tires and driven as moderately as anyone will drive a V8 Z, it could last quite a good bit. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 One thing you do want to make sure of is use locktite on the driveshaft bolts. Mine have come loose a few times. I even installed locking nuts and still wiggles loose. I actually have the willwood master cylinder and not the tilton. same thing but a tad cheaper than the tilton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Looked at my wiring this morning for the alt. I have the big red/white wire that says batt connected. Then From the 1 wire connector it then is wired into the solid yellow wire. You never said what year your zed is. So it might be a tad different. What i did when trying to figure it out was. Connected the battery terminal up then started the car. I then took the alt wire and touched it to the other possible wires. My kid sat in the seat and told me when the volt gauge worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Thanks for mentioning about the Driveshaft bolt should have locktite on them, totally dont want the thing fall off and hit everything. I am hoping the radiator would work in that angle, I am not doing any insane racing, yet. I am just looking to cruise around and play few races on the course, some long road trips. I'll have the fill and the air bleeder from JTR mounted higher than the radiator and the motor, hopefully that should do it. The wiring kit didn't include the fan relays, I am guessing I should get one of them relay that sells on summit so they can turn on certain temperature whatever the motor should cool at? I have some 16x8 Rims and 265/45-16 tires in the back, pretty fat wheels, I plan driving this thing really light until I get some kind of beefy rearend that spin both tires. I guessing it would last a bit, hopefully. I totally forgot to say what year my Z was, its a 1973 240Z. It used to be a carbed car with a 4 speed. My buddy said I might not need the Voltage regulator, because the camaro alt might be internally regulated? I took a picture of my Z alt wiring, it has one black wire (guessing ground), the fat red and white power wire, solid yellow and yellow and black wire in a connector and a yellow and black single wire to the old alt. What I could use for the single wire from the port of the camaro alt? My buddy and I wired the harness to the Z today, hoping to fire it up today. It cranks, got fuel, but no spark. It getting 12 volts from the coil, but no spark from the Distributor. Something gotta be missing here. Here's what I am getting for my Clutch situation. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-Combination-Remote-Master-Cylinder-Kit-3-4Bore-/220679012677?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item33617e8145#ht_4930wt_1037 http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LS1-LT1-T56-Clutch-Line-AN3-Banjo-Bolt-Kit-/120853978537?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c23755da9#ht_1737wt_1037 http://www.ebay.com/itm/3AN-Straight-90-Degree-Stainless-Brake-Line-54-/380405532732?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5891efc83c#ht_3127wt_1037 For my alternator pulley system... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Impala-SS-AC-Delete-Bypass-Pulley-LT1-Caprice-9C1-GM-/390278049924?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ade627084#ht_1431wt_1037 their power steering delete http://www.pscmotorsports.com/94-95-lt1-f-body-high-performance-pump-kit.html I should be fine with that ac delete? There several ac delete, one with a big pulley, one goes on the side, and one with the smaller pulley. That should clear the frame? Look like the one that you guys uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Get the small pulley!!! I got the big one by accident and had to notch the frame rail for it to fit in correctly. If I can find a 240 to swap everything over I'll get the small one. Looking at your pic the big white/red goes to the battery terminal on the back of the alt. I believe the solid yellow one that is going into the t-fitting plug thingy is the one you need. Just run a piece of wire to the alt plug wire and see what happens. I do know that you will have to put in a resistor to get the alt charge light to work. I have not done that so no clue what one to use. You'll also have to do the same to get the tach to work correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Okay sweet, I got the small one. I'll wire the alternator while I get the pulleys together and a belt around it so I can find which wire is which while it running. Just waiting on the parts to come here now, shipping takes a while. There's one part I need to get till this thing should be complete and running, I am looking for a thermostatic fan turn on relay switch, these motor fan runs 230 degree factory. I feel that a bit way too hot, what if I get a fan switch that turn both fans on 200 degree? Here's the relay I am talking about, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3647/ I think it should be fine, I don't have the wire for the fan from the PCM, should had done it. Right now the car should start, because everything is wired up. It would crank but it won't get spark, I know its getting fuel because I can hear splashing from the fuel cell. Could some ignition parts can go bad from sitting for around a year? I really hope its not the opti spark, that looks like a pain to get into, and not to mention they're pricey! If this was a carbed motor, would've had start long ago. I am so new with EFI lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 The no start spark issue seem to be the opti, already replaced the coil, icm, checked the wires. I wasn't getting spark from the new coil and icm, guess the thing inside the opti wasn't sending signal to to the icm to the coil. Got the MSD Optispark Pro-Billet 8381, that should do the job for the ignition. Its Going to arrive to the house today, will let you fill you guys in as soon I put thing in and hoping it starts. Random question; Is the R200 LSD is longer than the R180, or they are the same size? I ask this because I dunno if I need to shorten the drive line again. Is the 4.10 gear is insane for this car with this swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Its the same size, you just need the r200 mustache bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Thanks for the input for the rear-end! So I was able to get the car started to day, good feeling. But! There's an issue, it dies 3 second after. I disconnected the MAF (air flow sensor), it would stay running but idles bit high. Hooked it back on it dies 3 second later. I got the new MAF, does the same thing. The spark plugs are new, and routed right. Everything on the ignition is basically new, only thing I haven't changed were the spark plugs. I have a VATS module, so it surely not the vats turning off the engine. I grabbed a fuel pressure gauge, when I turn the key on, it goes 40psi, then when the pump shut off, it drop to 0psi in 5 seconds, with the MAF disconnected, it jumps to 30 to 43 psi. The fuel lines are new and routed correctly, not cramped, the external fuel pump is new it a Bosch 255. Could it be the fuel regulator bad? It isn't leaking from the vacuum line. If the regular bad should I look at something like this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13107/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Oh yeah, when it drop to 0psi, I can hear all the fuel is rushing back into the fuel cell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Went on Lstlt1.com since my Lt-1 question was more for that website. I finally got the car running straight. When I put the A/c pulley delete, I got the small one, and it hit the frame rails. Made me think I might put the JTR kit wrong? The wider spacing is on my driver side and the passenger side has the skinnier spacing. Is that correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Yes. The engine is offset to the pass side. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Thanks for the input for the rear-end! So I was able to get the car started to day, good feeling. But! There's an issue, it dies 3 second after. I disconnected the MAF (air flow sensor), it would stay running but idles bit high. Hooked it back on it dies 3 second later. I got the new MAF, does the same thing. The spark plugs are new, and routed right. Everything on the ignition is basically new, only thing I haven't changed were the spark plugs. I have a VATS module, so it surely not the vats turning off the engine. I grabbed a fuel pressure gauge, when I turn the key on, it goes 40psi, then when the pump shut off, it drop to 0psi in 5 seconds, with the MAF disconnected, it jumps to 30 to 43 psi. The fuel lines are new and routed correctly, not cramped, the external fuel pump is new it a Bosch 255. Could it be the fuel regulator bad? It isn't leaking from the vacuum line. If the regular bad should I look at something like this? http://www.summitrac...arts/AEI-13107/ There are typically two electrical feed paths to the fuel pump. Likely you may have one but not the other. The ECM provides for one to last for two seconds to prime the fuel rails. The other needs to be a continuous power path to the fuel pump once the engine has started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Huh wierd, I have seen the small ones on there and not hit. I did not even use my 3/8's spacers so my engine sits even lower in the bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 I didn't know there was a two electrical feed for the fuel pump. The one I got only has one gray wire, and the other end is to ground. I thought so that the offset is to the pass side. Maybe I bought the wrong kind of pulley... Was it the one that has the big pulley or the one looks like it has a smaller pulley. I got the one that has the smaller pulley, because I thought it was smaller than the other one since the pulley on that one look massive. This the pulley I got. Luckily the seller was kind enough to accept refund. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390278049924?_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&item=390278049924&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&vxp=mtr#ht_1475wt_905 Should I be getting this kind (DORMAN Part # 34209 from rockauto.com) Which pulley you lt1 Z guys are running? Part number would be greatly appreciated. The LT-1 runs great now, still have a pressure drop to 0psi in every 5 seconds when the car turn off. I don't know that is bad or not. The issue with my car wasn't running straight was all the vacuum lines weren't capped, doh.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 If it drops after you turn it off it sounds like your regulator is going bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.