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HybridZ

1973 Datsun with the Lt-1 Swap


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I don't think there is ever a valid argument for heavier wheels/tires. Lighter is always better - drag wheels and slicks are super light, much lighter than autocross or roadracing tires. Did I read in your thread that your R200 was "open?" I imagine that is your problem with wheelspin. I run my LS2 with a Z31 CLSD with 8.5" slicks. No wheelspin at all. That's 8.5 X 2=17" of tire on the road. Even at 11" wheels and tires, the most traction you will consistently have is 11". From the LSD, I've got 6" more tire width than you even though my tires are more narrow. Get an LSD and you may find that the tires you have are more than adequate. Just thinking out loud; hope that helps.

 

PS-your car looks awesome, especially the exhaust. Gonna copy that.

 

That is correct the R200 is a open differential type. Think it just because its an open differential all the power goes to one wheel during a turn, but not on a straigt line? When I had my old open R180, I let it down to the floor it roasted two tires evenly, and left a pair of black lines on the road. I fetch the R200 rear end since it was a good deal for cheap and was the quickest way to get the car on the road. Maybe I should add; my rear tires "looks" bald, it just have two single threaded line on each tires. There no real thread, and the rear tires are straight up completion tires. I didnt know an lsd could make that huge of a different.

 

My old R180 did good until it blew, and it had a 3.36 gear ratio, while the R200 I just got has an 3.9. Too much wheel spin, too little thread? I am using the same rear tires on both rearends, which measures about 10.5".

 

Just trying to figure things out here. Go ahead copy the design, I got to take a picture of my custom mufflers setup, it looks really nice on my little Z.

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Care to explain? Removing a coil stiffen the suspension, is it because less suspension travel?

Yes there is less travel. Its called spring rate. Load a spring with 200lbs. Said spring compresses .25" per coil under this load.. If there are 5 coils the entire spring compresses 1.25"(.25" x 5coils = 1.25") If you remove 1 coil and now are left with 4 coils this same spring will only compress 1"(.25" x 4 coils = 1.00")under this same load of 200lbs. The end result is a stiffer ride. I know from first hand experience. This is just a example. Different springs have different ratings and there are also multi rate springs which compress different than straight rate ones.

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Yes there is less travel. Its called spring rate. Load a spring with 200lbs. Said spring compresses .25" per coil under this load.. If there are 5 coils the entire spring compresses 1.25"(.25" x 5coils = 1.25") If you remove 1 coil and now are left with 4 coils this same spring will only compress 1"(.25" x 4 coils = 1.00")under this same load of 200lbs. The end result is a stiffer ride. I know from first hand experience. This is just a example. Different springs have different ratings and there are also multi rate springs which compress different than straight rate ones.

 

That is interesting, I would think the other way around. Thanks for the info oz. Say, since I added a good 200lb drive-train weight on a stripped reinforced body of a 240z, would it be a good idea to cut say about 2 coil all around to get that 2-3inch drop temporary? The Z is bouncy like an oldsmoblie as it it now if you push on it. Would too much of a coil chop could had the coil pop off the coil holder during driving? I was thinking welding a bit on the top and bottom to keep it in place.

 

I plan getting coil overs, and running like that for 6 month till I can get a kit. I wanted to do this since I am going to raise the engine and tranny a bit, also raise the front cross member about an inch, raise the tranny mount about 4 inch (the engine is sitting at an extreme angle about 4 degree) and give the Z a bottom section chop about 1 or 3 inches. If I dont cut the spring it would look like it's sitting like a offroader. It sound crazy, but the bottom of the Z got bunch of rust, I figured to chop all that out and install a nice flat floors, and lower the car. I am hoping to get about 43 inches total ride right. I also plan lowering the seat, taking the seat adjustment off and removing the seat support so the rider and passenger can feel like they are in a really low car. A plus is I can wear a racing helmet with out hitting the top pillars. Not to mention to see the ladies on the street, get what I'm saying (lol). Since I thinking about chopping entire floors out and possibility the trans tunnel, I might be able to install the roll cage underneath of the car instead chopping the top to finish the weld.

 

Any thoughts?

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