585Z Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I have a '75 280Z with a 351 Ford motor. The motor has aluminum heads, an X303 cam, and shorty headers. I am leaning toward a 750 Edelbrock carb. The installation was done many years ago but never finished. I am trying to decide which possible combinations would be the best. Any ideas or thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated. I have no gas tank at this time. If I purchase a stock gas tank I will have to run the dual exhausts out the drivers side. I could however retain the original fuel lines and brackets. Removing the spare tire well and finding an appropriate tank for the center of the car (like the Lane build) would allow an exhaust and muffler on each side. Would the original fuel lines be adequate to feed this motor? Thanks for your thoughts, Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I have fixed several S30 fuel lines over the years due to rust through. The battery tray drips onto the lines there and causes exterior rust through. The lines get bent and snap at the rear where the tank hoses attach. The factory 280Z tank had a problem with the pickup line breaking off in the tank. Partial breakage inside the tank will allow air into the lines. There are enough problems with an old fuel system to consider replacing everything fuel related. Your motor choice would probably run fine with 3/8" lines and a high pressure pump. There are several discussions about fuel pressure regulation and various routing ideas, pros, and cons. Going with a more sophisticated return regulator system may require relocation/replacement of existing lines anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
585Z Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks for your thoughts on the old lines. I saw several people moving the lines to the outside of the frame rail. This would remove them from the path of the exhaust tubes as well. I noticed that fuel lines are referred to by the outside diameter. I have some new 5/16 line that would be adequate for the return line if I used the 3/8 primary fuel line as you suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 It is generally a good idea to use the same size feed and return lines, especially when using overkill pumps that can provide race car peak flow but sit at stoplights some days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I would go with a 650 or 700 at most on the 351. I used to run a 351W in my old 1970 Mach 1. The engine had 10.7:1 compression, a .580 lift solid lifter cam, long tube headers, ported and polished 69 windsor heads with 1.90/1.60 valves, and Cobra aluminum intake. When I first installed the engine, I ran a ran a borrowed 600 double pumper and the can ran incredibly well. It had great throttle response and pulled strong to redline. Then, when I had to return the borrowed carburetor, I got the brilliant idea to put a 750 on it. The 750 was too much carburetor for the engine. Throttle response, low-end torque, and fuel milage all went to hell. Moral of the story: It is better to have a carburetor that is a little too small than one that is too large. If I were you, I'd get a 650. As far as fuel lines are concerned, the stock fuel lines are not adequate for a carbureted V8. I have a fuel injected 331CI Ford 5.0L stroker in mine, and I replaced my stock fuel lines with 3/8" tubing that run in the stock location. The 3/8" lines would also be sufficient for the carbureted 351, but 1/2" would probably be better. I have an ATL Sportsman 12 gallon cell with the ATL little black box installed. The little black box is a gated sump inside the fuel cell that contains the pump. My return line dump back into the black box. The good thing about the Little Black Box is that I can run the cell nearly empty and not worry about fuel starvation during acceleration, braking, or cornering. The black box can be purchased with a low pressure carburetor pump or with the higher pressure FI pump. Either way, the pump is inside the tank and almost silent. The ATL 12 and 15 gallon fuel cells are invisible if installed even with the rear deck. However, I have mine installed 2.5" below the deck to lower my CG as much as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
585Z Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Thanks for your ideas I will try to keep this information in mind as I set up the car. On fuel line material? Stainless or Aluminum? I am thinking of buying bulk so I can rout them where I want. I used aluminum on an old Tbird and that is working fine. Space and head was not an issue on that installation. Old cars, Fords especially, had a woven insulation for fuel lines in high heat areas. Has anyone seen a similar insulation available lately? I would like to insulate the fuel lines and brake lines where they are close to the engine or headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 You can find a variety of distributors for silicone coated fiberglass sleeving. If you shop the surplus suppliers you can get a great deal. http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/hightemperaturetubing.aspx ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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