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Speedometer cable?


Guest firebern

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Guest firebern

What do I do for the speedometer cable?

 

Do I cut half the mustangs and half the datsun's and mate them together?

 

How does the RPM work?

 

And the oil sensor can I get an adapter for this?

 

One fancy question: does all the gauges work anyway once done?

 

Thanks,

Fire.

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Two ways to go:

 

Get one made that has a Ford and Datsun end on it and use the Datsun Speedo.

 

Get a standard Ford speedo cable (80"?) and get an aftermarket speedo (5") and put that in.

 

The Datsun speedo turns a mile in 1024 revolutions versus 1000 revolutions (per JTR).

 

HTH,

Pete

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Guest firebern

I'll have to go the first way.

 

If I ask a lot of questions cause the people in my town's car parts store know absolutely nothing about real modifications. They don't know an EFI needs a high pressure fuel pump(somebody tried to sell me a Holley carb pump), they don't know what a pulling slave cylinder is, only some know about clutch throwout bearings(One store), so when it comes to asking them sligthly weird stuff their totally lost. Even the guy at the Ford dealer can't help me much. They are very nice though, if I get the rigth name and part number they will look for it, but they won't know how it works!

 

At some point, I even talked to the Mustang Club president and he never heard of an application where a borg warner T-5 would use an hydraulic clutch throwout bearing.

 

That's why I got to do everything pretty much by myself.

 

Thanks for the help,

Fire.

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Guest Anonymous

I've encountered the same at most parts places. I've found the easiest thing to do is find the application and year that used the part in question and have them look that up. Its worked for the most part. Often many of the parts however are specialty parts (like Pull slave cylinders) and they don't often stock such things, so have no exposure to them. Even our local speedshop (Tognottis)has a HUGE (the building used to be a supermarket!) selection, but theres so many applications that they only can tell you from experience what they know. There are a few really sharp guys there fortunately that have helped quite a bit.

So as you say, in many causes you are on your own when putting this stuff together, and unfortunately (at least in my own recent experience) you will likely make purchases that after review won't work for whatever reason or needs mods to work, I think its really just part of engine swapping, trial and error.

The internet is a great resource however, and you sometimes find answers in the most unlikely places. For hydraulic TO bearings or slaves, you may find places like Jeep sites to be an answer, as far as swaps go Jeeps are probably the most often converted engine swap there is. Just a thought.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest firebern

You are rigth I've hit a lot of those Jeep conversion sites while looking for info on the web.

 

As for the parts store, I guess it's normal.

 

Anyways, while looking for info on the throwout bearing I found this great site.

Sounds like Ford had a Thunderbird SC with 5 speed tranny and there is a part number for a Ford throwout bearing.

 

Look at this: http://www.sccoa.com/articles/r&eracing.html

 

I didn't have the time to wait and I bougth a pulling slave already, but next year I will install this. I think it can be sturdier. I'll see how my current setup will go. I have a pretty simple plan. I'll post a drawing of it on my website once I know it can work. Wait till you see this you'll have a laugh, but I am pretty certain it will hold for a year or more.

 

Hey! Nobody told me about the stock gauges will they workwith the stock mustang signals?

 

Later,

Fire.

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Guest JAMIE T

I called my local Ford dealer (my brother works in the parts dept.) The T-bird SuperCoupe clutch T/O assy. is available as a complete set, retail is $122.(my price will be less biggrin.gif I may try this set-up for my car, I will post the outcome, it may be a few months though.

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Tis is truly cool - we need the Ford swap better documented. IF more documentation had been available and the Ford T56 not cost so much I'd have done a Ford swap myself. I wish Ford would get off their butt and put a T56 in the new Cobras - with the 4series gears everyone is going to in order to take advantage of the HUGE powerband it just makes sense. Oh, and to get away from the exploding T45 transmission too smile.gif Now, if someone could make up a set of readily available Ford swap motor mounts we'd be really rolling!

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Guest firebern

Only 122$! That is cheaper then an aftermarket one! It's just too bad I didn't find this web site earlier.

 

Next year!

 

Later,

Fire.

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Guest firebern

You know as for making those motor mounts,

it would be nice to be able to order those, but they are so easy to make though.

 

Wait till you guys see my mount plan.

 

 

Later,

Fire.

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Actaully, you just bolt them up, lower it into the place you want, and mark the holes. Not too hard, took about an hour. just make sure to use the cross bolts to make it extra rigid.

Here's a drawing: http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/motormountdrawing.jpg

Check it out.

 

AL

 

 

------------------

http://zcar.netdojo.com

My Upcoming Solo Album Site

 

[This message has been edited by alsil (edited March 27, 2001).]

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Guest firebern

Do you still keep a rubber bumper between mount and crossmember/chassis?

 

If you do, is it custom or do U use standard either mustang or Datsun rubbermounts?

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I use a standard Ford motor mount that bolts to the engine one side, frame mount on the other. I want to use as many STOCK replacement parts as possible so I can find parts anywhere. Easier to fix if something goes wrong vs. special orders.

My crossmember has been highly modified to mount the steering rack and engine, so now the crossmember only supports the rack and the suspension, the engine is completely on the frame. Gave me a ton of clearence.

 

AL

 

 

------------------

http://zcar.netdojo.com

My Upcoming Solo Album Site

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Guest firebern

Ya rigth, now I am thinking I should put the engine mounts on the frame itself. There is too much leverage on the front crossmember the other way. I don't find that piece of metal too solid. Especially for the amount of Torque a 5.0 can produce. Plus, this means that you don't need an oil filter relocation kit. I am thinking that I should probably modify my design for the engine mounts.

 

Let me think about this,

Fire.

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The only problem with the mounts I have is that there MAY be a clearence problem from the stock steering shaft (I'm using a '95 Mustang Rack, which is higher and longer than the stock Z, so I have to use a filter relocation kit anyway) but I don't know, because I haven't tried it. Pretty sure that since the stock rack is so much lower, it shouldn't interfere, plus I have seen 2 cars with a stock oil filter on it. here's and example: http://zcar.netdojo.com/top.jpg

no problem, but I have not done it myself. I, of course, have to do things the hard way, and use ALL custom stuff. Some day I will build a REGULAR car. Not this time by a long shot!!!

I SHOULD have pics up soon, still no camera.

 

AL

 

 

------------------

http://zcar.netdojo.com

My Upcoming Solo Album Site

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Guest firebern

Finally finished fitting my engine mounts!

I'll try it, has it is cause they look pretty sturdy. Notice the time I posted this, I can't sleep. I am too excited. I just got my pullig slave cylinder, a master and my Holley fuel pump. I will install this tomorrow after work and then this weekend I'll have to work on the electronics. I think I got it pretty much covered.

 

Next week I have to get a new driveshaft and find two exhaust manifolds or headers, whichever. I spent a lot up to this point and wouldn't mind losing a couple of horses against a cheaper exhaust. I'll have straigth pipes anyways(I already gain there).

 

Look at my new post on porting...

 

Later,

Fire.

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Guest firebern

I just looked at the picture, this guy has a nice setup. The engine is really clean. The engine looks 1 inch further back than what I get.

 

I kept the original tranny mounts for the Datsun. I cut away the original holes on the Stang's T5 so it would fit on the datsun mount. To be able to go a little farther back, I took the rubber end off the datsun mounts and cut the tip of the screw hole. I won a bit there. I got to admit that I'll probably have to enlarge the hole for the shifter, but I just have 3 weekend left to get this car running. I didn't have the time to make tranny mount adaptation.

 

I recommend doing an extension of the mount with a sheet of 1|8" steel and bolting screws throug the original stang t5 holes.

 

I'll probably start over next year, when I get a better shell. Mounts are not the most expensive feature of this setup. Once you got an engine and a tranny, 75% of the cost is covered.

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The motor mounts look great. Make sure the "frame rails" are strong enough to handle the stress. Rubber motor mounts may go a long way in eliminating this concern.

I found out the hard way when my new sway bar pulled the mounting "nuts" right out of the frame rail.

Nice installation!!

 

Good luck,

Al

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There are other Ford sources for the hydraulic T/O bearing slave cyl. Both

90-95 Ford Aerostar and Explorer with V6 5spd. The mechanics are brilliant, in case you saw the T-Bird photos and wondered "how do you fill the master cylinder under the dash board?"

 

The reservoir is actually downstream in the clutch hydraulic line, on the engine side of the firewall.

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