Guest firebern Posted June 7, 2001 Share Posted June 7, 2001 I am having a hard time figuring out this wiring. There is this green and red wire from the mustang's alternator harness, I figured from the wiring diagram that it should go to the ACC+ON+START signals. Should I plug this on the ignition barrel or on the plug that went to the datsun ECU(3 green and one white). The G/R wire is in the alternator wire set. From the two eigth wire connectors, grey and black, I found mostly sensor output wires come out of these, except for one that connects to the start signal and I wired it to the start wire of the Datsun that connects to the starter solenoid. Is this rigth? I basically wan't to get the engine running without the gauges for now and then I'll take care of those. Are the two wires that connected to the original tranny on the passenger side, the wires for the RPM signal. I remember vaguely that my Datsun didn't have a neutral switch. Kingston is in 2 weeks! Help, Bernard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted June 8, 2001 Share Posted June 8, 2001 i havent done my wiring yet but i have figured out the harness ) i think!.. bought the mustang FI book and have the Motorsport harness book on order as well.. you shouldnt use any wiring from the nissan tranny- you last bit made it seem that way.. you do need to hook up the O2 sensors and all the sensors on the ford tranny to get the FI to run correctly.. in the end i believe there are only 4 wires to connect on the FI setup using a stang harnes if you use the o2 and allthe tranny wiring too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 8, 2001 Share Posted June 8, 2001 Not sure what Z your talking about, but on my 72 there were four wires (Mine was a automatic) that came down on the passenger side of the transmission. I believe the one set was black-yellow if I recall which on the automatic was some sort of neutral safety switch (I jumpered these and it finally started) and the other two, I think red-white or red-blue were backup lights (not hooked up yet on my T56.) Not sure if these are the wires you mean, but thought I'd through in what I knew of how mine was wired. Regards and good luck, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted June 8, 2001 Share Posted June 8, 2001 I have a standard tranny so I guess it is basically the same as your automatic. Then, how does the control panel get the RPM? Will it still be working? 4 wires.. Are they the four wires on the green plug at the beginning of the mustang wiring harness? There's a pink one part of the eigth pin connectors that seems to be plugged to the ON signal, but I am not sure. The connectors contain sensor output mainly, I am surprise to find this single pink wire there. Nobody knows about the G/R wire? It goes from the alternator to the front ligths harness. My ford dealer(a bunch of idiots) told me that the engine swap book wouldn't be useful cause it is for a 92-93 wiring harness and the color codes are not the same???? Any comments on this. I'd like to get this done this weekend, if anybody can help me through this I could have my laptop beside my car. Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 8, 2001 Share Posted June 8, 2001 Boy did we get our 'wires' crossed (sorry couldn't resist the pun). I was speaking of Nissan's wiring, sorry for the confusion. You might want to try and befriend those 'idiots' and see if they can be sweet talked (or beer talked ) into getting a photocopy of the wiring diagram for the year of wiring harness your using. Some are more co-operative than others on these kinda request. Just an idea. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful with the electrics... (yuck, I hate car electrics...) Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted June 9, 2001 Share Posted June 9, 2001 I met an old friend yesterday. He owns 90 Mustang GT andI looked at his wiring. Didn't get much out of this but then he told me about a mechanic he knows who owns 3 mustangs and knows them from A to Z. The mechanic works from his house so he doesn't charge the normal fee . I think I found the guy who can help me solve my problem. I will give it my best try this weekend and if I cannot get it to work, I'll pay this guy to do it. Thanks for the help, see ya in Kingston, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted June 9, 2001 Share Posted June 9, 2001 Actually I worked on this today, Saturday, and there is only one wire left. The Grey-Yellow wire for the computer, it gets the on signal, so there are two wires out of 4 wires for this under the datsun dash. A green-blue one and a white and black one. From the datsun color codes white is for the charging and green is for the sensor turn signals and horn. My idea is that I should take the white-black wire. Can anybody can confirm this? I`ll be starting the engine tomorrow. Later, fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted June 10, 2001 Share Posted June 10, 2001 Ok, The starter turns but the engine won't start. Do I absolutely need the inertia relay to be plugged? Currently I am using the Datsun wiring for this and the pump works fine. What do I do with the black and white wire on the mustang green(ECU power) plug? I tougth I could simply short it with the blue and yellow wire that goes to the neutral sensor switch on the tranny. Is the switch a close circuit when the tranny is in neutral or is it the other way around? Leavin' for a mountain bike ride, I hope I can get some answers by tonigth. Later, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted June 11, 2001 Share Posted June 11, 2001 Inertia switch not needed - it will shut off the pump in an accident and it sounds as if you have a running pumnp so no worries there. Are you getting spark? A voltmeter on the injectors or even a hand on the rail will tell you if they're pulsing or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted June 11, 2001 Share Posted June 11, 2001 I don't get a spark. I studied some more of my wiring diagrams and I forgot a loop, I will try again tomorrow. I am confident certain I got it rigth this time. What about the sensors? Water temp, oil pressure and oil level? Are they all calibrated with the Datsun's? Do I have to make some calibration circuit? Where do I pick up the RPM??? Later, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 Seems like I am populating my own thread. Anyways, I tried to start the engine today again... It wouldn't start. I added some new short circuits, the ones for the neutral sense switch plus I added an on signal to the harness. It wouldn't start! Then I thinked a bit. I can get a spark w/o the ECU runnin'. Maybe I am not getting any gaz and that could be if my injectors are not working! Well I tested them and they do get a signal, so this means I have the wiring rigth and that my ECU is working, those it? I got spark, the engine turns, the injectors spray and the fuel pump is running, why doesn't it start then? Help, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted June 15, 2001 Share Posted June 15, 2001 NEVERMIND IT'S ALIVE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 15, 2001 Share Posted June 15, 2001 Very cool Congrats! Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted June 15, 2001 Share Posted June 15, 2001 Sooo what was the problem?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted June 16, 2001 Share Posted June 16, 2001 Thanks guys! I shorted two wires together cause I figured they were for the clutch neutral sensor switch(close circuit in neutral). One wire was on the black 8 pin connector and the other on the grey. On one of the connectors there were actually two wires of the same color and I thougth I selected the wrong one. I cut the wire loose and asked a friend to start the engine while I tried shorting one or the other. I was holding the wires in my hand, getting ready to short them when I said Go! and VROOUMMM! the car started. Neither of these three wires needed to be shorted. Talk about being lucky. Anyways, for those of you who are interested, I bougth an 88 Ford Crown Victoria water pump so I could have the shortest belt path. If you are not up to this point, I want to remind you that without smog, power steering and A/c, your serpentine belt drive path is screwed. So by installing this pump you won't have to buy an idler pulley from MArch Pulleys, a water pump is 20$ at a junk yard or 40$ rebuilt whereas a march idler pulley set is something like 60+$ + the extra long belt. On top of this, you'll save 20 bucks on a fan and get more variety with standard rotation. I was going to forget, you have to get the water pump pulley from the Crown victoria too but this should be real cheap at a junk yard. Going for a big first ride tomorrow, Later, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted July 6, 2001 Share Posted July 6, 2001 how goes the finishing? was the wiring that simple in the end.. will be doing my car this week, just ordered the hydraulic tilton t/o bearing assy and mounts are done.. hope to have it running in a week! ya right!... been too busy with the race car- now its time for the convertible again... i must check out that crown vic pump idea.. as i already have a black magic fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted July 6, 2001 Share Posted July 6, 2001 oh...... how many codes do you get? just wondering ifyou checked that out or not.. you will have some - depends if they are important or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest firebern Posted July 8, 2001 Share Posted July 8, 2001 Hey, I just saw your replies. Frankly, I didn`t look at the codes I get cause I didn`t put the O2 sensors yet, I was busy making a new tranny mount. But if you need help with the wiring, I can help you if you have a 280Z and a 86 to 93 ECU(color code are different before that). My engine runs great, I wouldn't even look at the codes anyways. Let me know, Fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted July 9, 2001 Share Posted July 9, 2001 well i think i have a 91 harness/ecu? not sure.. either 91 or 93. i went thru the wiring tonite to get a idea - seems i didnt get the coil or the EEGR relays from the mustang.. so now i need those. i have the o2 and everything else that i know of... is your a standard or auto? what i gather so far is the 4 from the main EECiv plug need to be connected and somewhere i read teh o2 sensors should be powered independently of those. i'll be going thru the color codes tomorrow once i finish prepping the engine area for paint. my car is a 75 280 originally and i plan to use the orig fuel pump and relay from teh datsun for now. so any wiring colors that you know would be appreciated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 9, 2001 Share Posted July 9, 2001 I get the following codes: 67, 81, 82, 85 These codes are generated because I don't have the air pump solenoids (AM1, AM2), the canister purge, or the VSS connected. These are Key On Engine Off codes. I haven't been able to retrieve any Engine running codes. This might be because I don't have a clutch engine switch connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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