shuttlefever Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Hey all, got my MS2 all soldered up and things were looking pretty good. Until i decided that i just wanted to control fuel at first... So i had the board set up for VR ignition at first but decided that i wanted to go to a turbo dizzy instead, at that point i priced said dizzy and decided that at first i would use the negative term of the coil for my initial learning curve and just control fuel. So i added the circuits required to run the -coil lead and the jumper changes to go over to the hall/optical input. When the VR circuit was hooked up i had almost everything working in the tune studio when i moved the pots on the stim. After the hook up of the hall/optical circuits i had the opposite, nothing would change when pots were moved. Although when i unhooked the stim, moved the pots, then re connected the stim the values moved in the tuner studio. I started running through troubleshooting and got most of the way through up until looking for pulses out of the cpu pins 21 and 22. At those pins there is a solid LED on the tester and solid LED at D14 on the ms board. On the stim the PMP light is on bright. I never did get any tach signal to the tuner studio even before the changes. I have pulses from the stim at the "Tachselect to OPTOIN" jumper. I am driving myself crazy here, i am not an electronics guy so i feel a bit like maybe i screwed the pooch!! Anyone got any idea what the hell i did??? Thanks, D~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) Did you change which point the tach signal goes to on the PCB in tuner studio? For my setup L28ET with CAS dizzy I had to change it to JS10 I think. It's in the "How to megasquirt 280ZXT" on DIYAutotune's website. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm Edit: It might be helpful to you (if you don't use FIdle) to change the Tach output to FIdle. So, when you put the MS on the Stim, the FIdle LED will flash. Just a nice visual cue to give you a warm fuzzy. Edited March 8, 2012 by macambra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuttlefever Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Can i get away with this with a non turbo distributo r? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Can i get away with this with a non turbo distributo r? Get away with what? You should read the Megamanual about applying the VR style dizzy, or the MSExtra manual, if that's what you're reffering to. Or adapt a 300zx (Z31) dizzy to your car. All of the Z31s have the CAS optical dizzy. Might be easier and better in the long run. If you're talking about the FIdle trick, It will work with anything, it's an output setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuttlefever Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 I was referring to using the signal from my vr distributor the same way they are using the turbo hall effect signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuttlefever Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 I was referring to using the signal from my vr distributor the same way they are using the turbo hall effect signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuttlefever Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Argh. I hate mobile devices. I am planning to change distributors at a later date. Can't afford to right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Sorry, but you can't build the ecu for one style of dizzy and then just try to wire up another without adding that dizzys style of circuit. The vr circuit has to have a conditioning circuit because it puts out a variable a/c voltage, where as the turbo dizzy (which is not a hall effect by the way) gets it's power from a 12 volt source and puts out ( I believe) a 5 volt signal like most other automotive sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 gets it's power from a 12 volt source and puts out ( I believe) a 5 volt signal like most other automotive sensors. Yes.That's why there's a pull up resistor from a 12V source. Like Kaito said: build the circuit for VR and all should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuttlefever Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 I built both circuits as suggested by the megamanual. The megamanual directs you to set up for hall/optical input for the - coil trigger. only that there will be no timing control with the - coil trigger. they indicate that with both circuits installed you only need to alter a couple jumpers and a few more minor mods to alter dizzy input. I will be able to verify a few things that macambra mentioned at first later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I built both circuits as suggested by the megamanual. The megamanual directs you to set up for hall/optical input for the - coil trigger. only that there will be no timing control with the - coil trigger. they indicate that with both circuits installed you only need to alter a couple jumpers and a few more minor mods to alter dizzy input. I will be able to verify a few things that macambra mentioned at first later today. Per MegaManual: 50. Next you need to make a decision. There are two input circuits for the tach signal: The Hall/optical/etc. circuit takes the square wave input from a Hall sensor, optical sensor, or points. It can also be used for triggering off the coil (but only if you are not controlling ignition timing). The VR circuit takes the AC signal from a variable reluctor sensor and converts it to a square wave for use by MegaSquirt. The Hall circuit can be built two ways - for a digital signal such as a Hall sensor or optical sensor (step 50.a.) or for a coil negative terminal (50.b.). these are the same circuit, but different components. The VR circuit is install in step 51, if desired. Did you install the right componants? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuttlefever Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 yup, correct components installed, checked it at least five times this eve. I decided to try to return the setup to VR to see if i could get it back to at least making some change when the pots are moved like it did before. No luck, all that is working correctly now it the clock circuit. I am honestly about ready to put this thing on craigslist and wash my hands of it. it took me a long time to save up enough to purchase this. I really had the impression that someone with good mechanical skills should be able to do it. Maybe i was wrong. Now i dont have coolant temp even when the stim is pulled, pots changed and pluged back in. all the other values change except coolant now. and still no tach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) yup, correct components installed, checked it at least five times this eve. I decided to try to return the setup to VR to see if i could get it back to at least making some change when the pots are moved like it did before. No luck, all that is working correctly now it the clock circuit. I am honestly about ready to put this thing on craigslist and wash my hands of it. it took me a long time to save up enough to purchase this. I really had the impression that someone with good mechanical skills should be able to do it. Maybe i was wrong. Now i dont have coolant temp even when the stim is pulled, pots changed and pluged back in. all the other values change except coolant now. and still no tach. Clock circuit? You didn't put the crystal on the PCB did you? You only need it on the PCB for MS1. The MS2 daughter board has a crystal on it already. I'm in Bremerton if you want to get together and hash out the problem. I'd hate to see you give up on the project when you're so close. PM about your decision either way. Edited March 9, 2012 by macambra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuttlefever Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) The megamanual clearly states to install the crystal in step 38. Absolutely no mention of being just for ms1. and the megamanual i am working out of is the one for the ms2 with the v3.0 board. Where is the info about not using the crystal??? am i using the wrong dang manual??? this isn't the first instant of having incorrect information in the megamanual if it is the problem... so what do i do? yank the crystal and jumper?? ugh... really not impressed here. Edited March 9, 2012 by shuttlefever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) The megamanual clearly states to install the crystal in step 38. Absolutely no mention of being just for ms1. and the megamanual i am working out of is the one for the ms2 with the v3.0 board. Where is the info about not using the crystal??? am i using the wrong dang manual??? this isn't the first instant of having incorrect information in the megamanual if it is the problem... so what do i do? yank the crystal and jumper?? ugh... really not impressed here. Edit: No jumper. You are correct it does say to install it. It was written for the MS1 and some things need to be edited. I used the MS2 extra manual to assemble mine and there are alot of parts that don't need to be on the PCB. If I'm not mistaken you don't need any of the clock circuit stuff (MegaManual step 27+)since the clock is built into the MS2 DB. I never installed the crystal on my board. Take a look at the MS extra manual assembly guide. You might find that you want to assemble/change it per that manual, and then flash the MS2X 3.2.1 to your processor. You may or may not find it easier. Try not to get frustrated with the system- there's alot of info and alot of way to construct your MS2. The best way to do it is to follow EACH circuit to its ends and read, read , read. It's overwhelming for a while, until you have that "Aha!" moment. Edit#2: The clock circuit is completely bogus. You don't need to install it or uninstall it. It connects to nothing on the MS2DB. According to the schematic of the PCB and the DB, the clock circuit goes to pins 4 and 5 of U1 on the PCB. The DB has nothing connected on 4 and 5. It has no function. Sorry to alarm you for no reason. Edited March 9, 2012 by macambra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 So, for those of you following this thread, We continued conversing via PM. He managed to resolve his issue by re-flashing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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